Z930R - Zero Turn Purchase - Comments and Rules of Thumb?

[rmonio]

I also do my own, and I think it really depends on your specific use in this case.

For me mowing my area is usually about a 3-3.5 hour affair, I will grease it several times per season, and sharpen the blades at the same time. Good time to check the blades as well, my wife has bent a blade or two in her time. The oil change interval on my mower is quite long 400 hours, but I doubt I will let it go that long. I did change it at the end of the season last year at 60hrs, just felt that was long enough for the "break in" oil. I will likely change it every other season.

I really think that greasing and the blades are the thing that should be done a few times a season, even if you have a small push mower I think you should sharpen the blade at least once a season, you will get to know your machine and know what it needs.

These machines are a big investment, hell even the little push mowers are expensive in my book, the better you take care of them the longer they will last.

I have a 24yr old Craftsman (Husqvarna) with 900 hours and it is still going strong, because I took care of it and stored it in the barn out of the weather. I have an old 80's Ford YT16 that while it is a smokey beast still runs great. It does not mow much anymore, usually areas where there might be gravel, it is still going strong, god only knows how many hours it has. Just replaced the belt for the first time a few days ago, still on the original drive belt.

Take care of these machines and they will last you a long time.

I have been blessed with longevity on my machines as well. The service kit from JD is worth the investment and easy to do.

 

[rmonio]

This is currently the bane of my existence. By last rough count, I have about 200 trees either in my yard or overhanging the perimeter. Black walnuts are the most prevalent, and anyone who owns walnut trees can tell you they shed a lot of branches, maybe more than any other tree I've ever owned.

If anyone ever makes a good 3-point or tow-behind implement for picking branches off the lawn, I'd be the first in line. I lose an enormous amount of time every year to picking up branches, and while I don't bother with every little one anymore, the big'uns and little'uns are often laying together in a way that makes the impossible to ignore.

Our trees shed like a horse losing a spring coat so I know what you mean. It makes for quite a pile in the burning pit regularly.

This weekend I’m cleaning out my pole barn and getting everything back in shape for parking the ZTR next to the JD B, 4600, and the other stuff. I’m appreciative of a concrete floor, for sure. This will also be my first weekend for using the ZTR so I’ll get a chance to experience many of the recommendations that have been made in this thread. Thanks, folks!

 

[rmonio]

I will also chime in there with, the wife does most of the mowing, she loves the new mower:
View attachment 871534

She will also mow as fast as the thing will go. Our "yard" is bumpy as all hell, but this thing really soaks up the bumps. She has bent a blade on this one, I try to tell her to slow down a little, I see she is now slowing down for the mole hills, I guess that is a win. But most of the time it is balls out.

One reason I went with this machine is because how it will do over the bumps, at the time it was the only game in town.

It was pretty darn expensive, I would buy it again it is that big of a time saver, but damn they are expensive.

It will likely outlast me.

My wife doesn’t cut grass. But she is a gourmet cook so I’m happy with the trade off (I’m only good at pizza..).

I’m excited to see how the new mover navigates the bumps and other items. I am a tad bit nervous though as we do have one area that is a steep angle that I’ve had to cut with my x320. I will probably still cut it with that as even the delivery guy from the JD Dealer said that it would be tricky…. He said you could do it but you’d need more experience than just being a newbie.

 

[WinterDeere]

re: hills.

ZTR's have great traction when facing uphill, as all the weight is on their drive tires. Conversely, they have nearly zero traction facing downhill, as all the weight shifts toward their front swivel casters. This is noticeable in all conditions, but particularly troublesome when the grass or ground is damp... as it tends to be spring and fall.

You've already read the recommendations to make K or Y turns, not zero-pivot. To add to that, when mowing cross-hill in all but very dry conditions, make the start of your K- or Y-turn in the direction that points you uphill, even when your progression (procession?) is in the downhill direction.

If progressing downhill by making K-turns in which the first part of the turn is to face uphill, this just means the "back up" portion of the turn is a bit longer, to get aligned for the next stripe.

Also, having said all that, the most probable way of flipping any ZTR is over onto its back. When facing up a steep hill, do not punch the controls too hard, or you may find yourself looking at the sky. Of course, familiarity with the tipping threshold and subsequent comfort with speed in such turns will develop with time, just take it slow to start.

I have one troublesome hill with a few trees near the bottom, and when mowing in one particular direction, it's real easy to slide into one of the trees, when trying to swerve around them. I often have to go out of my "lane" to take the safe path around one or two trees, rather than chance sliding into them due to low traction while facing down the hill.

 

[beenthere]

This is currently the bane of my existence. By last rough count, I have about 200 trees either in my yard or overhanging the perimeter. Black walnuts are the most prevalent, and anyone who owns walnut trees can tell you they shed a lot of branches, maybe more than any other tree I've ever owned.

If anyone ever makes a good 3-point or tow-behind implement for picking branches off the lawn, I'd be the first in line. I lose an enormous amount of time every year to picking up branches, and while I don't bother with every little one anymore, the big'uns and little'uns are often laying together in a way that makes the impossible to ignore.

I mow over the branches, if less than 1" diam. Mulch them up.

 

[BigBlue1]

Small limbs, roots from the trees. Can't pick up every small branch in a 4-5 acre area. I try to remember where the roots are to avoid but sometimes I forget.

We have a lot of big trees in our yard area. Anything smaller around than about the size of my thumb gets run over instead of picked up. The heavy blades on my Bad Boy Rogue 72" deck make short work of them. Sticks and roots don't leave any dings on my blades. Only rocks or the rare time I've hit something metal have left dings. I mow 7 acres.

 

[rmonio]

Well, did my first legitimate cutting of my yard today with the ZTR.

WOW.

What a difference it is in comparison to the x320. And to my 4600 w/ the 72” inch finish mower. I should have had one of these a long time ago.

Thank for all the pointers and such! While I can say that it will take a me a little getting used to when it comes to working my hills, the other aspects of it were wonderful!

Now if I could just get the darn seat belt to retract properly…

 

[WinterDeere]

Fun, huh? I still remember my first time, almost couldn't wait for the grass to grow some more, so I could do it again.

I can honestly say the seatbelt on mine has been used only twice in the last 13 years. I have too many ornamental trees with low branches, which means ROPs up (thus seatbelt) is not an option here. Twice I thought I could get away with it, and both times ended in injury or near-disaster. YMMV

 

[tradosaurus]

This is currently the bane of my existence. By last rough count, I have about 200 trees either in my yard or overhanging the perimeter. Black walnuts are the most prevalent, and anyone who owns walnut trees can tell you they shed a lot of branches, maybe more than any other tree I've ever owned.

If anyone ever makes a good 3-point or tow-behind implement for picking branches off the lawn, I'd be the first in line. I lose an enormous amount of time every year to picking up branches, and while I don't bother with every little one anymore, the big'uns and little'uns are often laying together in a way that makes the impossible to ignore.

Pine needle rake?

 

[big bubba]

for those who don't sharlpen/change blades. occasionally check than none are bent, an oft overlooked item.
OP: check when the 1st recommended hyd fluid/filter change from factory, also, at least on my commercial model, there is a procedure to purge the air after change.
Mobil 15-50 full syn is recommended for many, also check your specs on that.
hopefully the spindles are grease serviceable as w/ft end components & wheels