R4 tire popped off the rim

[beersngars]

I need some ideas on how to reseat a rear tire on it's rim. This is what happened. My new Kubota L3400 had a defective rear tire (out of round). My dealer got it handled through the manufacturer. They came out and installed a new tire about a month ago and I put the tractor back in the barn. I did watch the guy install the tire and it had a small bead leak (I saw the lube bubbling) and he smacked it a few times with a hammer and it seemed to quit. Today I tried to back it out and felt the bead let go. I do have a small Sears compressor there but could not get it to pop back on.

Hoping not to have to remove the rim and take it somewhere as our cabin is very rural. I thought of tring to put a strap around the center of the tread and expand the tires beads tighter to the rim. Any thoughts?

 

[john_bud]

A strong strap around the middle of the tire can help. First mix up some dish soap and water (20% soap) and wet down the whole rim on both sides. Then give it the strap and pressure.

The problem you will have is getting enough air into the tire fast enough.


You may want to call the dealer and see what they think. They may handle it for you.

jb

 

[jimmer2880]

I have used the ratchet strap idea on several mobile home, 4-wheeler, golf cart and utility trailer tires. Works like a champ. Just run the ratchet strap around the center-most part of the tread of the tire. Ratchet it down as tight as you can. The bead should then be touching the wheel. After you hit it with a little bit of air, don't forget to releast the strap.

 

[ctjstr]

You could do like the jeep guys do....i've seen folks several times re-seat tires by squirting some starting fluid in the tire, next to the rim, then squirting a small stream a few feet away and then lighting it. POP! Tire blows right back on the rim.

Although I've seen it done, I've never had (or will have) the nerve to try it myself. Does work though.

On the ratchet strap thing. What has worked better for me is to get the strap in place, but not terribly tight. Then I take a small bar and stick it between the strap and tire, and twist a few turns. You can really squeeze the tire and thereby expand it. The advantage it gives you is that when the tire starts to take air and seat, you can just release your bar and you're back to having slack in the strap. If you just ratchet the strap tight, once the air starts expanding the tire, it can be a booger getting the ratchet to release quick enough.

 

[zzvyb6]

I presume you are having a problem getting the air chamber filled and the bead at the bead seat of the wheel, not that the tire bead is in the rim, just not all the way against the flange.

Your chances of popping the bead back on the rim will improve if you remove the valve core from the Schraeder valve. You need a special tool to do this, often found on the end of some caps.

There is an industry standard for the tire to rim seating tension. If it keeps blowing out, you are probably going to have to increase air pressure to keep it on there. Perhaps the wheel is defective.

The way to tell is when reseating the bead, it should not just roll on, but snap with a noticable pop, often at pressures much higher than operating pressure.

Another possibility is that it is a tube type tire and needs a tube. I've run tube type tires tubeless, but they slowly leak down.

 

[gemini5362]

You could do like the jeep guys do....i've seen folks several times re-seat tires by squirting some starting fluid in the tire, next to the rim, then squirting a small stream a few feet away and then lighting it. POP! Tire blows right back on the rim.

Although I've seen it done, I've never had (or will have) the nerve to try it myself. Does work though.

On the ratchet strap thing. What has worked better for me is to get the strap in place, but not terribly tight. Then I take a small bar and stick it between the strap and tire, and twist a few turns. You can really squeeze the tire and thereby expand it. The advantage it gives you is that when the tire starts to take air and seat, you can just release your bar and you're back to having slack in the strap. If you just ratchet the strap tight, once the air starts expanding the tire, it can be a booger getting the ratchet to release quick enough.

Starting fluid is ether and highly explosive the guys the people that do that are taking a big risk.

I have used the strap method and it worked pretty well. You have to jack the tractor up and get the tire and rim completely off of the ground. You have to get the strap very tight so that it will push the bead out towards the edge of the rim. When you get air in it remember to take the strap off before you fill the tire up. If you are using the standard ratcheting strap you can pull the lever that allows you to loosen the ratcheting handle. Pull it up until it is completely straight this will loosen both locks and it will come loose.


Make sure that you block the tractor up very solidly while you have the tire off of the ground. I think the biggest problem you are going to have is to be able to put out enough volume quickly to push the tire onto the bead without loosing it all around the rim.

 

[RickB]

I presume you are having a problem getting the air chamber filled and the bead at the bead seat of the wheel, not that the tire bead is in the rim, just not all the way against the flange.

Your chances of popping the bead back on the rim will improve if you remove the valve core from the Schraeder valve. You need a special tool to do this, often found on the end of some caps.

That's right.

There is an industry standard for the tire to rim seating tension. If it keeps blowing out, you are probably going to have to increase air pressure to keep it on there. Perhaps the wheel is defective.

Or debris between the rim/tire. or a damaged tire bead.

The way to tell is when reseating the bead, it should not just roll on, but snap with a noticable pop, often at pressures much higher than operating pressure.

A lubricated rim/tire will seat smoothly and quietly. NEVER, EVER use more than 35 PSI to seat a tire on a rim.

Another possibility is that it is a tube type tire and needs a tube. I've run tube type tires tubeless, but they slowly leak down.

Almost all tubeless tires will leak down over time, especially in spring and fall when air temps vary a lot.

 

[Savagepike]

I vote for the strap method. But have several straps available, mine required 2 straps, 2 strong people plus a homemade bead puller built out of a rope, a 2x4 and several coat hangers to motivate my rears back on the rims. Also patience is a big plus. My next tractor I'll gladly pay the extra $$$ to have my tires filled. Huge PITA.

 

[Timber]

Well I can tell you that semi ties always have a problem seating the bead. They use hand soap like a 1 gallon can of goop or something similar. The other thing is an air tank with a knife valve an a large opening that is wide and narrow like a cow bell the dumps a high volume of air into the tire as you fill it. Personally I would take it to a tire shop and just have them seat it for you

 

[beersngars]

Thanks for all the help. If the tractor were at my home, no big deal, as I have a large compressor and air tools. At the cabin property there is only a small compressor and very little tools. I may to try the strap method, but I will bring tools to remove the rim so it can go to the tire shop.