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  1. #11
    Elite Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Sunny SW Washington
    LS R4010 & Cub Cadet 7300

    Default Re: Removing real tire

    Be sure not to pound on the end of the axle. If you mushroom it a thousandth of an inch, it's on there for the duration.
    The Corporate Empire is NOT a Constitutional Republic...
    ...but it plays one on TV.

  2. #12
    Platinum Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    john deere

    Default Re: Removing real tire

    You start beating on those rims , you will fu$$ that trans up .

  3. #13
    New Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2013

    Default Re: Removing real tire

    After looking at the parts book and saw that the axle was indeed attached to the transmission inside the housing, I'm backing off the hammering...So when the weather gets a little warmer here, I'm going the pry bar route. ..Plan "B" is to cut it off, buy a new tire and tube and try to put it back on the rim....Plan "C" ....haven't a clue...

  4. #14
    Veteran Member
    Join Date
    Dec 2012
    Ottawa, Ont

    Default Re: Removing real tire

    only suggestions :

    if you use the pry bar method, you must tap on the back side of the rim (180 opposite the pry point) to help wiggle the rim off.

    have you tried a piece of 2x4 tucked under from the opposite side of the tractor and put up against the back side of the stuck rim... pound on the 2x4 to push the rim off... rotate the tire a bit and pound again... repeat as necessary.

    if you must pound on the axle from the front, use a piece of aluminum stock or brass stock between the hammer and the axle... the softer metal transfers the "blow" to the axle, but it deforms instead of mushrooming the axle.

    these methods have worked for some, but you must decide how much force you want to apply and are comfortable with.

  5. #15
    Epic Contributor
    jinman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2001
    Texas - Wise County - Sunset
    NHTC45D, NH LB75B, Ford Jubilee

    Default Re: Removing real tire

    Quote Originally Posted by LoBul View Post
    ..Plan "B" is to cut it off, buy a new tire and tube and try to put it back on the rim....Plan "C" ....haven't a clue...
    On my Kubota G1800, the tires I cut off and replaced right on the mower were front tires. Those little dickens's were tough to get back on the rim because of the rim spinning on the axle. There was no good way to hold it. Breaking the bead was fairly easy using a big C-clamp to squeeze the tire to the middle of the rim.

    On rear tires, you can put a wrench (pipe wrench or visegrip pliers) on the rear axle to keep the wheel from spinning. Breaking the tire down off the bead while it is vertical will be the challenge. Large clamps like c-clamps and pipe clamps can really help. Since you may have to cut the tire off, you can cut a hole in the sidewall and then cut the bead for an easy removal. Why try to preserve a tire you are replacing? I really think cutting and then careful reinstallation will be your least hassle. Once the tires are mounted, having a tight fit to the axle is a good thing.

  6. #16
    Silver Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2009

    Default Re: Removing real tire

    most tire guys who come put tires on our equipment never take the rim off the equipment.... they soap it down and pop it off with tire irons.

  7. #17
    Super Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    JD2010, Kubota3450,2550, Mahindra 7520 w FEL w Skid Steer QC w/Tilt Tatch, & BH, BX1500

    Default Re: Removing real tire

    Cant you drill a few holes in the rim center/hub and use bolts to make a puller. You could apply a couple thousand pounds pull that way.
    This side of 40
    JD2010, Kubota L3450/FEL w SK QC, L2550 w FEL
    Mahindra 7520 [Pinky] /FEL w Skid Steer QC/w Tilt Tatch & BH, BX1500 [Mighty Mouse]
    IH37 Baler, CCM165 Drum Mower, JD Rake
    JD 127 bushog, Flail, SK Tilt Tatch , KK tiller, Rhino rear blade, Post driver, post auger, chipper, pallet fork, Grapple/Loader Buddy, Homemade Splitter/DC Welder

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