Easy Tire Chain Installation

[Mike_ONeill]

When I ordered my 2-link chains, I didn't realize how HEAVY they would be. They were quite a chore to install on my JD4310, compared to the 4-link chains I had on a much smaller tractor.

Here's an easier way:
1. Stretch out the chain behind the tractor.
2. Back the tractor over the chain until the rear axle is directly above the last cross link.
3. Put a strap around the chain and through the wheel rim. The strap doesn't go around the tire, but doubles through the slot in the wheel rim and around the chain on both sides.
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[Mike_ONeill]

4. Drive the tractor forward and the chain will come with it. I get off the tractor once or twice during this process to center the chain side to side and work out any slack.
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[Mike_ONeill]

5. Continue driving forward until the rear tires have made about 1 and 1/3 turn. This puts the loose ends of the chain in a convenient location. The lower end of the chain will be held in place by the strap, so you don't have to struggle with the weight of it.
6. Make the chain connections and remove the strap.

The strap is hard to see in this picture, but is still in place.

This procedure leaves the chain with much less initial slack than the conventional method.

 

[Junkman]

I have used this method also before, but I used a rubber bungee cord instead of the strap. The only problem that I ever encountered was with bar tires. Now I use studded snows on my truck and my tractor doesn't need them. Where did you hear about this method? I learned it from a old truck mechanic, but he used mechanics wire and would just cut it off when done....

 

[Mike_ONeill]

I hadn't heard of this method before, but I'm sure it's not original. The instructions that came with my chains gave the more difficult method.

 

[DocHeb]

Nice documentation with the pictures. Who did you purchase the chains from? Are you using any tensioners?

 

[RalphVa]

My Gravely came with tire chains on it. Couldn't stand them. Removed them and bought a set of dual wheels and spacers. The dual wheels give it virtually the same traction on dirt/grass but without the digging that the chains did.

For the first, wet slippery snow we had, I put the chains back on (had to remove the outer wheels). Didn't secure a loose piece of chain on the inside of the wheel, and it caught on a spring holding my brake shoes in place. Broke the chain. Ended up removing the chains and putting duals back on and walking behind it instead of riding the sulky and taking smaller "bites" with my snow plow.

Guess if I have to ever use the snow blower again, I'll have to put the blasted chains back on, as I have to remove the outer wheels, as they stick out past the blower. Might try it with the blower and without the sulky. The blower will sort of pull it along with the auger.

Be sure and use some tensioners. Otherwise, unless you have them ultra tight (and whoever can get them really tight), they'll shake loose from their fasteners and come off or hang up on something.

I vote for a 4wd tractor in snow.

Ralph

 

[Mark_in_NH]

RalphVa,

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I'll have to put the blasted chains back on, as I have to remove the outer wheels, as they stick out past the blower )</font>
How much wider are your duels compared to your snowblower ?
Can you simply add an angled wing to each side of the blower so it cuts a path wide enough for the duels to travel or wouldn't this be feasible ?

 

[frank_f15]

never saw a tire chain that went on as easy as they say it will. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RalphVa]

The duals are near 48" wide, as they are just behind my 48" snow plow, even angled. The blower is only 26". Guess they stick out a good 10" on each side. The blower was designed for the old Gravelys that normally never had dual wheels.

Never thought about wings. They'd have to have been VERY strong to push 20" of that sleet out to the side that the blower just chewed through.

Ralph