boggen
Elite Member
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2011
- Messages
- 3,789
- Location
- Trivoli, IL
- Tractor
- SSTT (Sideways Snake Tain Tractor) and STB (sideways train box) tractor, dirt harvester
just jotting stuff as it comes to mind. no order to anything.
============
looking for fixing or new tires...
contact any and all local tractor dealers, ask them if the sell or deal with tires.
--most likely you will get a NO, and they might say tire place takes care of it. (ask them for a phone number or name of business)
internet search for R,1 R4, agriculture tires, etc... and get on manufacture websites that actually make tires. normally manufactures have some sort of "zip code" or like search to find local dealers.
--TIP most local dealers also sell other manufacture tires as well.
different places charge differently. some by hour (from leaving there place) to distance, to flat charge, to other. get estimates.
--TIP myself calling a place 2 hours away "even with that long of a distance / travel time" was cheaper a few hundred bucks, than half dozen other nearby places.
--when asking for prices, at least a couple years ago.. double check "brand" of tire, and ply rating. these 2 things alone seemed to make the largest difference in overall price of a tire.
radial vs bias tires. = another subject for another time. but something to double check.
small front tractor tires, you might find a local tire shop that deals with say semi tires, or a local pap/mom shop might also be able to deal with smaller front tractor tires. ""it is the rim diameter"" that will most likely matter and if they can get there tire on one of there tire machines. small front tires, you might be able to also take to a local "farm store"tractorsupply, farmking, farm and fleet, etc... and they might be able to order and replace a tire for you.
4x4 / MFWD and other forms of 4x4 and like drive systems of tractors. if you replace front tires, you will most likely also need to replace the rear tires as well. 4x4 tractors have a certain gear ratio, and tire diameter / circumference. if you get front and rear tires out of to much wack. you can cause tear up the drive train of the tractor.
if you are having someone come out to replace or patch up a larger front / more so rear tractor tire. ask if they want the tire / rim left on tractor or not. some may want tire left on. so they have something to pry against. vs having a tire flip flop around trying to pry on it on the ground.
if a tractor tire is filled with something (water, salt water, antifreeze, beet juice, etc.. etc...) you may get charged more. and/or it may be impossible to physically man handle the tire with liquid in it, if taking tire some place to get fixed. some places charge an arm and a leg for unfilling / filling tires with fluid.
TIP: i have had ran over enough thorns and like. that getting a setup, to fill / unfill tires has been worth it.
--if you have say a 30 gallon sprayer, with a 12v on demand pump, for spot spraying. a few pieces of plumbing can make them a mighty weapon in filling / unfilling tires easily. ((plus 30 gallons to either load up or temporary store the fluid till tire gets replaced / fixed.
proper tools = make all the difference
--picking up a couple tire irons / tire pry bars. can make battling of the tear bead much easier. search TBN TractorByNet.com | Compact Tractors | John Deere, Kubota, New Holland for bead breaker. ""initial breaking seal that happens between bead of tire and rim".
--my last tire = take tire off tractor, and letting tractor back down on tire. to break the bead/seal.
there are some better tools out there. in battling the bead and rim. and physically getting the tire on/off the rim. more so the bead over and around the rim.
large rear tractor tires may require some other large machinery to deal with them, example another tractor with FEL (front end loader) or backhoe, or a cherry picker / engine lift stand. the large rear tires are simply to heavy and to large to easily man handle them.
dish soap or like liquid can help making getting beads of tires off and over rims edges.
if you are going to take a tire some place to get fixed. CLEAN IT, remove the dirt, remove the grim, remove the oil. make it easy for them. vs having to have a mop and bucket behind and tire, cleaning up after you have left there store.
TIP: if you got a slow leak, put max pressure tire can handle in it. and then get some soapy water. say 1/2 dish soap 1/2 water. and then put in a spray bottle and wet the tire. you might be able to see little "foamy bubbles" were the leak is. pain in rear and wasted more time for myself vs just taking tire off rim. and running my hand on the inside of the tire. "when i eventually get poked" by the thorn in the tire.
to tube or not tube.
--my personal take = to tube all tires regardless.
--for front tires more so tractors with FEL (front end loader) it might help keep tire on when ya forget to raise tire pressure in them, and put an extra heavy load on the FEL and cause the front tires to squish down, to point tire is about to pop off the rim.
--all tires in general, trying to seat the "bead" for a good non leaking seal. i generally run low PSI in my tractor tires for traction and a softer ride. "within reason" and more likely at a risk of bead coming loose and having an instant flat. a tube = no worrying about a bead seal. trying to set beads on a tire that does not have a good bead seal already = can be dangerous if not correct tool for job.
--times i have gotten thorn in tires. i been able to save majority of all the fluid within tires. granted i still had to replace approx 1/3 of the fluid. due to i did not catch leak in time. but after buying a few gallons.. "shrugs"
--salt water / calcium chloride or calc ((most likely off on term/names)) = cause rims to rust out. and will require a tube.
NOT TO TUBE
--tubes are well can be a pain in rump to deal with. and getting everything aligned. and fighting tire, rim and tube.
--tubes cost just for tube itself, and then more man hours / labor if paying something else to deal with them.
to note it. the last few tubes i had to replace. had 2 to 5 extra pin holes in them when i put pressure back into them, to find were the leak was "lost place after i removed it from tire". no clue what got through tire and into tube. but i didn't have leaks until that major long thorn / nail happened. was i saved 2 to 5 extra times by having a tube. not a clue! no way to tell.
tractor tires are not car / truck / trailer tires. they DO NOT need to be filled to MAX PSI / max pressure. lower PSI can = more traction. look over your "owners manual" and it should have some sort of chart of suggested PSI and for different conditions to run PSI in your tires.
CHECK owner's manual. some tractors do not suggest filling front tires with a fluid. generally it is acceptable to fill rear tires with a fluid. though some owners manuals will state NO fluid when a backhoe is on.
============
looking for fixing or new tires...
contact any and all local tractor dealers, ask them if the sell or deal with tires.
--most likely you will get a NO, and they might say tire place takes care of it. (ask them for a phone number or name of business)
internet search for R,1 R4, agriculture tires, etc... and get on manufacture websites that actually make tires. normally manufactures have some sort of "zip code" or like search to find local dealers.
--TIP most local dealers also sell other manufacture tires as well.
different places charge differently. some by hour (from leaving there place) to distance, to flat charge, to other. get estimates.
--TIP myself calling a place 2 hours away "even with that long of a distance / travel time" was cheaper a few hundred bucks, than half dozen other nearby places.
--when asking for prices, at least a couple years ago.. double check "brand" of tire, and ply rating. these 2 things alone seemed to make the largest difference in overall price of a tire.
radial vs bias tires. = another subject for another time. but something to double check.
small front tractor tires, you might find a local tire shop that deals with say semi tires, or a local pap/mom shop might also be able to deal with smaller front tractor tires. ""it is the rim diameter"" that will most likely matter and if they can get there tire on one of there tire machines. small front tires, you might be able to also take to a local "farm store"tractorsupply, farmking, farm and fleet, etc... and they might be able to order and replace a tire for you.
4x4 / MFWD and other forms of 4x4 and like drive systems of tractors. if you replace front tires, you will most likely also need to replace the rear tires as well. 4x4 tractors have a certain gear ratio, and tire diameter / circumference. if you get front and rear tires out of to much wack. you can cause tear up the drive train of the tractor.
if you are having someone come out to replace or patch up a larger front / more so rear tractor tire. ask if they want the tire / rim left on tractor or not. some may want tire left on. so they have something to pry against. vs having a tire flip flop around trying to pry on it on the ground.
if a tractor tire is filled with something (water, salt water, antifreeze, beet juice, etc.. etc...) you may get charged more. and/or it may be impossible to physically man handle the tire with liquid in it, if taking tire some place to get fixed. some places charge an arm and a leg for unfilling / filling tires with fluid.
TIP: i have had ran over enough thorns and like. that getting a setup, to fill / unfill tires has been worth it.
--if you have say a 30 gallon sprayer, with a 12v on demand pump, for spot spraying. a few pieces of plumbing can make them a mighty weapon in filling / unfilling tires easily. ((plus 30 gallons to either load up or temporary store the fluid till tire gets replaced / fixed.
proper tools = make all the difference
--picking up a couple tire irons / tire pry bars. can make battling of the tear bead much easier. search TBN TractorByNet.com | Compact Tractors | John Deere, Kubota, New Holland for bead breaker. ""initial breaking seal that happens between bead of tire and rim".
--my last tire = take tire off tractor, and letting tractor back down on tire. to break the bead/seal.
there are some better tools out there. in battling the bead and rim. and physically getting the tire on/off the rim. more so the bead over and around the rim.
large rear tractor tires may require some other large machinery to deal with them, example another tractor with FEL (front end loader) or backhoe, or a cherry picker / engine lift stand. the large rear tires are simply to heavy and to large to easily man handle them.
dish soap or like liquid can help making getting beads of tires off and over rims edges.
if you are going to take a tire some place to get fixed. CLEAN IT, remove the dirt, remove the grim, remove the oil. make it easy for them. vs having to have a mop and bucket behind and tire, cleaning up after you have left there store.
TIP: if you got a slow leak, put max pressure tire can handle in it. and then get some soapy water. say 1/2 dish soap 1/2 water. and then put in a spray bottle and wet the tire. you might be able to see little "foamy bubbles" were the leak is. pain in rear and wasted more time for myself vs just taking tire off rim. and running my hand on the inside of the tire. "when i eventually get poked" by the thorn in the tire.
to tube or not tube.
--my personal take = to tube all tires regardless.
--for front tires more so tractors with FEL (front end loader) it might help keep tire on when ya forget to raise tire pressure in them, and put an extra heavy load on the FEL and cause the front tires to squish down, to point tire is about to pop off the rim.
--all tires in general, trying to seat the "bead" for a good non leaking seal. i generally run low PSI in my tractor tires for traction and a softer ride. "within reason" and more likely at a risk of bead coming loose and having an instant flat. a tube = no worrying about a bead seal. trying to set beads on a tire that does not have a good bead seal already = can be dangerous if not correct tool for job.
--times i have gotten thorn in tires. i been able to save majority of all the fluid within tires. granted i still had to replace approx 1/3 of the fluid. due to i did not catch leak in time. but after buying a few gallons.. "shrugs"
--salt water / calcium chloride or calc ((most likely off on term/names)) = cause rims to rust out. and will require a tube.
NOT TO TUBE
--tubes are well can be a pain in rump to deal with. and getting everything aligned. and fighting tire, rim and tube.
--tubes cost just for tube itself, and then more man hours / labor if paying something else to deal with them.
to note it. the last few tubes i had to replace. had 2 to 5 extra pin holes in them when i put pressure back into them, to find were the leak was "lost place after i removed it from tire". no clue what got through tire and into tube. but i didn't have leaks until that major long thorn / nail happened. was i saved 2 to 5 extra times by having a tube. not a clue! no way to tell.
tractor tires are not car / truck / trailer tires. they DO NOT need to be filled to MAX PSI / max pressure. lower PSI can = more traction. look over your "owners manual" and it should have some sort of chart of suggested PSI and for different conditions to run PSI in your tires.
CHECK owner's manual. some tractors do not suggest filling front tires with a fluid. generally it is acceptable to fill rear tires with a fluid. though some owners manuals will state NO fluid when a backhoe is on.
