Ballast Can I do it Myself?

[mmranch]

Howdy folks... it's been awhile.

I've been dealing with a tire-leak dilemma and have been trying to find the best way to solve it. I have never really worked on my tractor tires before other than mounting my snow chains, etc.

First some background. We are located on the top of a mountain in Colorado and get about 400" of snow each winter. Our driveway is 1/2 a mile long and about 150' of elevation gain from the bottom to the top (so you can imagine the grade). I have a 2009 TYM 603 that I use to move snow, skid logs, etc. etc. The rear wheels have calcium chloride liquid ballast inside a tube in the 16.9-24 R4 tires. (At least I think it's in a tube?).

Many months ago, my L rear wheel started leaking from the valve stem and I had to replace the valve stem core. I promptly got sprayed while changing the core but I got it installed and all seemed fine (other than my burned skin). Then after plowing snow for a couple of months this winter, I started seeing strange drip patterns on my shop floor... I knew something wasn't right but I couldn't see actual leaking and the tire was still inflated. So I kept plowing and one day, I noticed the tractor listing to one side and looked and the tire was almost flat and there was calcium chloride spots all over the snow around me. So I was able to limp the tractor back to the shop and get her jacked up, etc. I re-inflated the tire and then noticed bubbling/spewing from the valve stem hole area (not from the valve stem itself). I also noticed that the valve stem hole area of the rim was corroded. I'm guessing that there is a puncture in the tube and it could possibly be near the valve stem. There is still some amount of ballast in the wheel... not sure how much but it is still leaking slowly with the tire off the ground and the valve stem rotated to the 12:00 position. (Chains are removed off this wheel... and already starting to majorly corrode).

Because of where we're located and in the middle of a big winter... I can't get any service up here to fix the wheel. And it would cost me a lot. I'm currently paying someone else to plow our road and I need to get this machine back in service.


One possible solution is I could dismount the wheel, transport the wheel to a tire service place, have them drain the ballast, replace the tube, fill with ballast again, transport the filled wheel back home, remount the wheel, etc. I have an engine lift that could hoist the wheel but it would be a difficult process to precisely get the filled wheel up into my 68 Chevy pickup and back down. Plus the engine lift can only get the the wheel so far into the pickup because of it's design. Plus I would probably have to mount/dismount chains on my pickup just to get her up and down the mountain (probably twice). We don't usually use this pickup in winter so she could break down along the way. All in all... a major major pain.

The other solution is my preferred method... do it myself. But I haven't done this type of a procedure before and I don't have all the tools I need to do it. The tools I think I need to get are:

Tire irons to open up the tire.
Large container to hold the liquid ballast... not sure how much ballast is still in the tire.
Pump of some kind to pump out/in the fluid.
Hoses to hook from pump to tire/container.
Calcium Chloride powder.
New tube.
Not sure what else.

Since the Calcium Chloride has been on the rim, I might need to totally dismount the tire in order to clean the tire & rim? I've never dismounted a tire from a rim before... seems like it would be really hard without special machinery.

My basic question is... is this project something that I can do myself? Or would I be better off, trying to transport the wheel and let someone else do it?

Thanks for your thoughts!

 

[Shaneard]

If you can figure out a way to get the fluid out (if you want to save it) then by all means go for it! I had a rear leaking recently (16.9-30) and hauled it to get fixed, they sucked out 100ish gallons of fluid, removed tire, installed new tube cause it was pinched and had a hole in it, pumped fluid back in and only charged me $108 and some change and that includes the price of the tube. I say only because I wouldn't touch it for that. I understand you being up a mountain and snow and all makes your need to do it your self a lot more than me needing to do mine. The fluid in and out is the biggest challenge. If your not trying to save the fluid put it on the bottom and remove the valve stem and catch what you can. I would highly recommend installing something other than calcium chloride upon refilling, that stuff is awful on rims. Be sure and secure your tractor real good, you don't want to be beating on the tire breaking the bead and knock if off your supports, you could get hurt or worse. Best of luck to you!

 

[mmranch]

Thanks very much for the ideas! Safety will definitely come first whatever route I take!

Thanks again.

 

[Shaneard]

You're welcome! And for the record, the man did mine on the tractor by himself and it took him about 2 hours and he was in no hurry. I say if you've never done one you could do it in 4 to 6 hours. They really aren't that bad if you can break the bead pretty easily. Put some lubricant around the wheel/tire when you get it broke loose and before you put it on, dish washing liquid real thick works pretty good. OH and be sure not to pinch the tube when putting tire back on rim, you don't want to do it twice (been there done that & it's not fun)!

 

[RNeumann]

Valve stems leak from time to time and are fairly easy to replace. Take weight off that tire by lifting that corner of the tractor off the ground. Spin the tire so the stem is toward the top- hopefully this will keep most of the fluid in the tire. Remove the core. When the pressure is equalized you should be able to unseat the tire near the stem. Unseating will be anything from a simple push to beating on the tire with the end of a 2x4 and sledge hammer. With the tire unseated you should be able to replace the stem.

If that doesn't work or the rim is beyond repair you could try the above with a tube. Also note field fixing a tire is a common repair that tire shops do everyday. Your location, hill, snow etc is nothing out of the ordinary.

 

[ovrszd]

I'm on the other side of this fence.

I do not say this in any condescending manner at all.

If doing this yourself was anywhere near your knowledge and equipment level you would already have done it and only be posting this thread to show others your methods. Because you are asking, I'm saying you should transport it.

Also understand that when it's apart you may discover that the rusted rim near the valve stem is what has caused the problem. If so, then you are going to need a rim. One that size will be $100 or somewhere near that. I paid $110 for a 11x28 rim.

As Shaneard said, refill with something other than calcium chloride.

Post your results, whatever path you choose.

 

[k0ua]

Watch the "old" man for some tips:

 

[ovrszd]

I rest my case.

 

[RNeumann]

Watch the "old" man for some tips:

To replace the valve stem all that is needed is the first minute of the video! Everything else isn't needed........
If you break the bead and the rim is rusted beyond repair that a different story. But to replace a valve stem is a simple task.

 

[fried1765]

I'm on the other side of this fence.

I do not say this in any condescending manner at all.

If doing this yourself was anywhere near your knowledge and equipment level you would already have done it and only be posting this thread to show others your methods. Because you are asking, I'm saying you should transport it.

Also understand that when it's apart you may discover that the rusted rim near the valve stem is what has caused the problem. If so, then you are going to need a rim. One that size will be $100 or somewhere near that. I paid $110 for a 11x28 rim.

As Shaneard said, refill with something other than calcium chloride.

Post your results, whatever path you choose.

Advice by "ovrszd" is spot on!
Drain the fluid, and take the wheel/tire in for repair!
Take the time to clean up the rust (IF you can save it), and prime, and epoxy paint rim.
Replace the tube with a NEW one!
Go to TSC, and buy a tractor tire fill fitting ($10).
Buy as many gallons of windshield washer fluid as you will need to fill the tire (75% - chart for gallons on internet))
Take the EMPTY wheel/tire home and mount it on your tractor.
Put tire stem at top position. Leave tractor on jack, with just some weight on the tire.
Attach your tire fill fitting, and add windshield washer fluid with a small cheap electric pump (drill pump?).
"Beet juice" would be great, but it is too expensive, and you cannot do it yourself.
After 75% full, top off with desired amount of air.
NOW: Do the same to the other wheel!
NEVER use CaCl again!!