Tire Selection Help with understanding and selecting new tires.

   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires. #1  

Learning to Farm

Silver Member
Joined
May 24, 2011
Messages
217
Location
20 minutes from downtown Washington, DC
Tractor
Kubota L3750
Tractor Gurus,

I just purchased my first tractor used and the tires leave much to be desired... their one redeeming quality is that they are still holding air.

It is a Kubota L3750 with a FEL. The fronts are mostly bald in the middle. The rears are mismatched, with similar wear, one is very dry rotted. I believe they are both type R1.

A few questions:
1. I need to save up to replace them all. I am thinking the fronts need to be addressed first. Thoughts?
2. R1 vs R4s pros and cons, I have been told that R4s are better for my needs (turning manure pile, mowing pastures, dragging sand ring, no-till planting).
3. Where is the best place to buy tires and why?
4. Anything else you know or wish you had been told about tires.

Thanks,
LtF
 
   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires. #2  
To me the R1 are better than R4 for pulling in dirt. The R4 is better on hard surface and probably easier on truf than the R1. I have had one set of radials (may have tractor now with radials not sure) but really like their ride compared to non radials. Where to buy the, I would try to find dealership near to you who services tires in the field so you do not have to remove and haul to them and then reinstall if that were needed. As you get into bigger tires you will find the cost of them coming to you right reasonable compared to the effort in handling a loaded rear tire.

On your tractor if four wheel drive be sure you use the size on all wheels recommended. Do not run in four wheel drive in hard surface and may be why the front tires are so worn. Puts strain on the front end drive. If the rear tires are not the same size correct that first.
 
   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires. #3  
R1 / ag / agriculture tires = pizza tires per say, they sink and find the bottom of mud and keep you going
R4 = R1 but wider tires = balloon tires. they set on top of the mud and spin = stuck.
turf tires / lawn tires = generally approx same width as R4 tires and not as aggressive of a tire.

R4 tires and turf tires = good chance you can use same rim and switch between them.
R1 tires on other hand you need new rims if you want R4 or turf tires

if you tractor is a 4x4 / MFWD style of tractor you need to keep tire diameter ratio the same for front and back. MEANING, if you replace the fronts, you also should replace the back tires as well. or when you go into 4x4 / MFWD you could damage the drive train. due to either fronts pulling more than rear or vice vs.

pay more attention the the PLY rating, higher the ply the more rubber and/or thickness of the rubber on the tires. = in my own words. longer life of tire.

google AG tires or R1 tires or tractor tires and find the manufactures online. and do dealer lookup do this for a 2 to 4 tire manfactures dealing with tractor tires.
call each place even if they are a couple hours away and get a quote.

some charge by the hour, some by a flat fee, other charge per mile plus fees, each one is different. just call them up and get a quote most likely same dealers offer other brand of tires "name brands to off brand tires" the off brand tires can be 2x or more cheaper than name brand tires.

they will come out with new tires, and put them on the tractor right then and there. think tow truck for cars/trucks. but for tractors and swapping out tires. they generally also carry some fluid to fill the rear tires.

since this is your only tractor. i doubt you have a cherry picker or access to another tractor or something. to deal with the larger rear tires more so when filled with a fluid. you can get a tire filler valve i want to say gremplers name brand. and if you have say a 12v sprayer 20 plus gallons or so. with a handfull of other misc parts/fittings from a local hardware store turn your sprayer into a rig to empty fluid out of the rear tires and then once new tires on, refill the tires. ((there are other ways to empty tires and fill them up))

you still will most likely need some sort of cherry picker / lift / crane to physically man handle the larger rear tires. even when not filled with a liquid. *been there done that* and only way done was having the cherry picker. couple hundred pounds just a bit to much to manual handle trying to get tires back onto the tractor.

if you attempt to take old tire off the rim. yourself, along with possibly putting new tire on the rim. it is going to be additional cost for tire irons, to bead braker, to longer prybars. this is more muscle and making sure you have the correct tools. if you go this route get a tube, so you are not trying to dangerously set the bead of tire onto the rim. instead just inflate the tube and let it push the bead of tire onto the rim.

if you pay tire company to come out and do it, they have the tire irons, jacks, and good chance they will state to leave tires on the tractor, so they have something to pry against when removing old tires / putting on new tires.

some folks want the old tires, other folks want them gone for good.

pull your make/model numbers off your tires and have them ready when you call around for quotes, along with make/model of tractor along with if 4x4 / MFWD or not.

if no make and model of tires, make sure you measure diameter and thickness of rims. so they can figure something out.
 
   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires. #4  
I've always thought R1 was an "ag" tire for strictly off road where tire tracks weren't an issue- they dig.
R4s were looked at as "construction" tires and were used on and off road and didn't tend to damage soil as much.
"Turf" tires are for areas that you want to avoid soil damage like a lawn. They are also nice in ice (driveway plowing) and on road.
I always call around for tires. That will be your best price. Sometimes online works but only if you are willing to mount them yourself (check YouTube it ain't that hard). eBay and the dealers may also have deals. They get takeoffs and or tires with life left.
Without seeing the tires it's near impossible to say what to replace first.
 
   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires.
  • Thread Starter
#5  
IMG_9943.JPG

Picture of the two different rear tires (both R1).

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This is the left tire (looking from rear). Dryrot is pretty bad.

IMG_9946.JPGIMG_9947.JPGIMG_9948.JPG

The front left tire (looking from the front).

IMG_9949.JPGIMG_9950.JPG

Front right. Noticed the rim has some damage, should I be concerned?

Any thoughts, suggestions are greatly appreciated.

Thank you for taking the time with a owner newbie.
 
   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires. #6  
Replace rears first. If you have a failure it's much harder to change rears away from your shop or flat work area.
I doubt the rim bend would ever be an issue but it's hard not to recommend replacement with edge/bead seat damage.
 
   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires. #8  
I wouldn't put a Carlisle on a wheelbarrow. But others haven't had issues. They have been hotly debated on this site. Good luck I'll sit back and watch the show.....
 
   / Help with understanding and selecting new tires. #9  
Tractordata.com list (L3750 4wd) fronts 7.2x16 and rears 11.2x24 .I would change them all.Buy U.S.A made tires and not Chinese ******.
 
 
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