Really Weird Tire Losing Air Issue

[RWEST]

Here's one that is driving me about out of my mind!! The rear tires on my J-D 955 are partially liquid filled. If I park the tractor with the valve stem of the left rear tire anywhere below the horizontal plane (using the clock face analogy - from 3 to 9), the tire will lose fluid/air, and go flat if it sits for a day or two. You can see where a small bit of fluid leaks out around the stem, but, all the air is gone. So, I have to drag extension cords and my little compressor from the house to the garage and pump it up. If the stem is above horizontal, everything is fine - it can sit for a month or more, no problems. It doesn't make any sense. Air molecules are smaller than fluid, right? If the stem's bad, the air should leak out regardless of where the stem is located, wouldn't you think? Please help!!

 

[mikim]

I'd look for something stuck in the tire -- like a nail or screw or thorn - that is on the opposite side. ie: if the tire is sitting so that the puncture is on the bottom - it doesn't leak - if it's on top - it does. or -- something in the bead - same scenario (I get tree bark stuck in the bead sometimes-- you can guess how)

 

[shaley]

Sounds like the weight of the tractor pinches teh hole shut when it is on the bottom but allows it to leak when on top. Add about 3psi more air than required and use soapy water on tire with the suspect hole at the top. See what bubbles up.

 

[Robert_in_NY]

Jack the axle up to take the weight off the tire and pull the stem out. I just replaced the stem on my TN as it was doing the same thing. The little o-ring on my stem started to give up for some reason as it would lose air slowly. Just take the weight off the tire first otherwise the fluid will be forced out of the valve body when you pull the stem (if your fluid is that high to begin with).

 

[normde2001]

There are professionals that know how to handle that type of thing.

 

[Farmwithjunk]

There are professionals that know how to handle that type of thing.

A few of us amatures can deal with it too......

Robert was right. Jack the wheel up off the ground. Put valve stem @12 :00 high. Unscrew core of "schraeder valve". Put new core in. Air to correct pressure. Go tractorin'!

They just go bad every now and then. Reason #79,351 why to NOT use cal/chlor in tractor tires if you don't like rust.

 

[shaley]

Professionals; We don't need no stinkin professionals.

 

[BTDT]

Professionals; We don't need no stinkin professionals.

Expert, Ex=has been spurt=drip under pressure

 

[PILOON]

That fluid that seeps out--
It is CALCIUM, and if it gets between the liner and the rim you will be buying a new and possibly very costly rim.

Don't ask how I know.
My little Mitsubishi front rim was quoted at $450.00!

Rinse off that rim thoroughly

 

[Soundguy]

Nothing inherantly wrong with CACL.. It's about the cheapest, easiest weight you can add.

Just have to do a bit of maintenance.

#1,, start with clean painted rims.

#2, start with a new tube.. not an old leaky one from 1957.

#3, When you notice corrosion around the valve stem.. start thinking about a new tube. I generally try to force some oil or grease down the core/stem of my tubes with fluid. That small film barrier makes a huge difference.

soundguy

A few of us amatures can deal with it too......

Robert was right. Jack the wheel up off the ground. Put valve stem @12 :00 high. Unscrew core of "schraeder valve". Put new core in. Air to correct pressure. Go tractorin'!

They just go bad every now and then. Reason #79,351 why to NOT use cal/chlor in tractor tires if you don't like rust.