If you have Toolcat questions, ask them here...

[petzl]

2 simple things to check first.
1. Check fuse #2 20amp "Switched Power". that fuse feeds power supply to the shift lever switch.
2. If fuse is OK, go to the shift lever and unplug it where it plugs into the main harness. With an Ohm meter or continuity tester, check for continuity with lever in Park at terminal #1 (#1800 wires) and terminal #5 (#4820 wire). If no continuity, the switch has failed.

If you have continuity through the switch and fuse is OK, check for 12v at the #1800 wire at the shift lever, and report findings here or PM me.

all good for fuse and lever.

 

[SSdoxie]

Here is voltage checks at key points in start circuit, all should have battery voltage;
@1800 wire in to shift lever switch,
@ #4820 coming out of switch going to Display/controller (this wire changes numbers @ the controller
At the back of Display Controller:
@ J5 plug connection, terminal E wire #4840 - neutral signal in to display/controller.
@ J1 plug, terminal A, wire #9380 is out to starter relay.
if you do not have neutral signal volts into controller and do have it coming out of neutral switch, back track wire to find why.

If you have voltage into controller and not out, check both black wires (grounds) to battery.
If voltage into controller but not out and grounds are good, controller needs to be replaced or pin connection(s) loose or corroded.

Let us know what you find.

 

[petzl]

Here is voltage checks at key points in start circuit, all should have battery voltage;
@1800 wire in to shift lever switch,
@ #4820 coming out of switch going to Display/controller (this wire changes numbers @ the controller
At the back of Display Controller:
@ J5 plug connection, terminal E wire #4840 - neutral signal in to display/controller.
@ J1 plug, terminal A, wire #9380 is out to starter relay.
if you do not have neutral signal volts into controller and do have it coming out of neutral switch, back track wire to find why.

If you have voltage into controller and not out, check both black wires (grounds) to battery.
If voltage into controller but not out and grounds are good, controller needs to be replaced or pin connection(s) loose or corroded.

Let us know what you find.

J1 plug, terminal A, wire #9380 is out to starter relay. I only get .65 volt out of it. The rest is all good. I'm gonna check the mother board and see if i can get something wrong in it.

 

[petzl]

Here is voltage checks at key points in start circuit, all should have battery voltage;
@1800 wire in to shift lever switch,
@ #4820 coming out of switch going to Display/controller (this wire changes numbers @ the controller
At the back of Display Controller:
@ J5 plug connection, terminal E wire #4840 - neutral signal in to display/controller.
@ J1 plug, terminal A, wire #9380 is out to starter relay.
if you do not have neutral signal volts into controller and do have it coming out of neutral switch, back track wire to find why.

If you have voltage into controller and not out, check both black wires (grounds) to battery.
If voltage into controller but not out and grounds are good, controller needs to be replaced or pin connection(s) loose or corroded.

Let us know what you find.

I'm going to just override pin A by using a push button start and see if it works. Don't wanna pay 1500$ for display controller.

 

[petzl]

Jumping pin A of connector J1 with the ignition switch did the job. It's working now. Thanks alot SSDoxie for all the help. Really did appreciate it.

 

[petzl]

Fuel shut-off solenoid doesn't work. I have it working on the pull side but not on the hold side so finally, i will need a display controller. So if u have one seating around and u don't need it, give me a shout.

 

[SSdoxie]

Before investing in a new controller, make double sure the 2 wire grounds for the controller are making good connection back to battery. Both wire are on the same plug as the starter output to replay and the fuel hold. if nothing else splice in a run secondary grounds direct to battery. Also check all the pins in that connection plug to make sure everyone is making good solid contact. A few pennies worth of dialectic grease could save hundreds of dollars.

 

[petzl]

Fuel shut-off solenoid doesn't work. I have it working on the pull side but not on the hold side so finally, i will need a display controller. So if u have one seating around and u don't need it, give me a shout.

I did check the 2 grounds and they are good. I'll go deeper and repost. thanks.

 

[petzl]

All the connectors were cleaned and dialectic grease applied to all of 'em and still nothing. So bypassed the starter, the fuel shut-off solenoid and glow plugs weren't working either so it's manually activated now for the fuel but glow plugs aren't. They do work sometimes but will take care of them later.

 

[IndianRunFarms]

I have been having issues with my 2003 Toolcat as well

My front wheels are not turning at the same speed as the rear

One thing i did notice was if i put the machine in axle match mode the front wheels would only turn a couple inches and then lock

When its out of axle match is will spin but in my opinion its not spinning at the correct speed to match the rear

When in reverse all 4 spin at the same speed (reverse functions as it should)

Been having issues with forward for over a year off and on have unplugged the rear wheel sensor and did nothing

Have replaced the front speed sensor and it didn't fix it

I have replaced the solenoids on the pumps and one of the solenoid stems (might have been bad but since this keeps acting up i'm having issues diagnosing what is the problem

If just driving around it seemed to be ok all winter but if i ran the finish mower it was more prevalent of a problem this spring

Maybe somebody has some advice

Thanks