Boat Trailer Conversion??

[wmgeorge]

I've got a chance to buy a used tandem axle boat trailer... cheap. Said he hauled a 2000 lb boat trailer and it was not even to the capacity of the trailer.

Anyway, don't need much, just to haul JD650 tractor and loader + mower estimated weight at 4,000 lbs max. I'm going to look at it soon and just wondered, if the axles and tires were up the the load carrying capacity I needed.... has anyone here done such a conversion.

I have lots of time, two good welding machines and a small shop.

Ideas?

[MrJimi]

I see that your going to have some kind of deck/floor and an axle relocation and some real good tie-down points
Should be easy and fun and make sure you grind galvanize off before welding to it and recoat after there are some good galvy paints out there and check your wheel bearings and tires
Jim

[chrpmaster]

Had a friend do the exact same thing only with a smaller capacity single axle trailer. He added some cross members to the existing frame and added a flat deck of 5/4 treated lumber. Very strong. He hauled his Ford 8N a couple times with no problems. I don't know exactly how much weight that would be but I would think it would be over 2000 lbs.

Andy

[Diamondpilot]

I looked at doing the same thing. I am one of the few who like surge brakes and most boat trailers have them. Like stated above you will need to move the axles forward but there should be a lot of good parts there to start with if the price is right. Hopefully it will have dual 3,500# axles under it.


Chris

[wmgeorge]

Originally Posted by Diamondpilot

I looked at doing the same thing. I am one of the few who like surge brakes and most boat trailers have them. Like stated above you will need to move the axles forward but there should be a lot of good parts there to start with if the price is right. Hopefully it will have dual 3,500# axles under it.
Chris

The tires in the picture look decent, but I'll need to check the load range. I can't see any rust and its inside his garage. He has an 18 ft fiberglass boat on it now... did I tell you its selling for $400?

[Tig]

The price seems right.

[ampsucker]

it's a good project. i've been involved in a few of these and i'll give you my take on the usual problem areas:

- axles have probably been submerged several or many times. depending on salt or fresh water, you'll definitely want to go over them and check for pitting/corrosion and repack. bearing buddies are a cool mod to add so you can just pump fresh grease into the bearings with a grease gun through a zerk.

- lights and wiring - same deal. depending on water and how often, may have to do a full replace.

- axle location if set up for a boat will be pretty far back since motor and gas tanks are usually in back of the boat. this makes for a very nice towing trailer (long tongue) but you may need to relocate forward as previously mentioned to get your 10% tongue weight. i would just recommend not going any farther forward than needed. if you know how you are going to load your tractor, you'll be way ahead of the game in getting this right. i can't emphasize enough how much your choice of axle location will affect the trailerability and ride of finished trailer.

- spring shackles will probably need new sleeves due to water submersion. also, check the u-bolts and centering tab for rust and replace as necessary.

- tires need to be carefully attended to. biggest problem with low mileage tires is dry rot from UV exposure. biggest problem with replacing them is finding the correct load range in the size rim you have. often times older boat trailers have the older and smaller sub-15" size rims. it's getting harder and harder to find these tires for the 14" and 13" rims. also, the less air volume, the less loading capacity on the tires. very important to match the load rating on the tires (x4) to the axle rating (x2) and ultimate load on the trailer. don't forget to subtract the actual weight of the trailer from the GVWH to get the actual size load you can carry. i weight my finished trailers empty at the local quarry scale (for free) to get my actual weight and finished capacity. tool boxes, gas cans and binding chains can add significant weight.

- if going with surge or elec brakes, don't forget that significant load shifts can occur during hard stops and your tire weight carrying needs to account for that (ie safety margin).

- surge brakes are notorious for leaking seals and low hydraulic fluid. at the least, you need to do a full fluid flush and replace with fresh fluid due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. it's not the boiling point reduction so much as the rust on internal components from the moisture and breakdown of additives.

- carefully check out the hitch for wear, rust, etc. replace if necessary.

good luck and happy building!

amp

[wmgeorge]

Originally Posted by ampsucker

it's a good project. i've been involved in a few of these and i'll give you my take on the usual problem areas:

- axles have probably been submerged several or many times. depending on salt or fresh water, you'll definitely want to go over them and check for pitting/corrosion and repack. bearing buddies are a cool mod to add so you can just pump fresh grease into the bearings with a grease gun through a zerk.

- lights and wiring - same deal. depending on water and how often, may have to do a full replace.

- axle location if set up for a boat will be pretty far back since motor and gas tanks are usually in back of the boat. this makes for a very nice towing trailer (long tongue) but you may need to relocate forward as previously mentioned to get your 10% tongue weight. i would just recommend not going any farther forward than needed. if you know how you are going to load your tractor, you'll be way ahead of the game in getting this right. i can't emphasize enough how much your choice of axle location will affect the trailerability and ride of finished trailer.

- spring shackles will probably need new sleeves due to water submersion. also, check the u-bolts and centering tab for rust and replace as necessary.

- tires need to be carefully attended to. biggest problem with low mileage tires is dry rot from UV exposure. biggest problem with replacing them is finding the correct load range in the size rim you have. often times older boat trailers have the older and smaller sub-15" size rims. it's getting harder and harder to find these tires for the 14" and 13" rims. also, the less air volume, the less loading capacity on the tires. very important to match the load rating on the tires (x4) to the axle rating (x2) and ultimate load on the trailer. don't forget to subtract the actual weight of the trailer from the GVWH to get the actual size load you can carry. i weight my finished trailers empty at the local quarry scale (for free) to get my actual weight and finished capacity. tool boxes, gas cans and binding chains can add significant weight.

- if going with surge or elec brakes, don't forget that significant load shifts can occur during hard stops and your tire weight carrying needs to account for that (ie safety margin).

- surge brakes are notorious for leaking seals and low hydraulic fluid. at the least, you need to do a full fluid flush and replace with fresh fluid due to the hygroscopic nature of brake fluid. it's not the boiling point reduction so much as the rust on internal components from the moisture and breakdown of additives.

- carefully check out the hitch for wear, rust, etc. replace if necessary.

good luck and happy building!

amp

OK well I found out this trailer has 13 inch tires, said the rating is 11?? so I'd need to actually See the trailer as this guy is mentally challenged, also has problems reading a tape measure. The other big problem is no brakes... so I'm assuming 2,000 lb axles, vs 3500# once again the guy is no help. Brakes I can install if it has a name brand axle, I'm assuming anyway... but can that tire size be used?? Max load on trailer 5K, so I'm thinking 7,000 GVW. How close am I on this thinking???

[Diamondpilot]

I think I would pass on it. By the time you buy axles, wheels, tires, brakes, steel, wood, on and on you could buy a good trailer ready to go. I bought a 2003 16'x6.5' tandem axle 7000# trailer with spare, brakes on one axle, and winch for $950. You will have near that in this conversion.

Chris

[wmgeorge]

Originally Posted by Diamondpilot

I think I would pass on it. By the time you buy axles, wheels, tires, brakes, steel, wood, on and on you could buy a good trailer ready to go. I bought a 2003 16'x6.5' tandem axle 7000# trailer with spare, brakes on one axle, and winch for $950. You will have near that in this conversion.

Chris

Thanks Chris... Still looking for one like yours...