Single axle or tandem, brakes or no brakes?

[LBrown59]

Originally Posted by BruceR

I'm interested in seeing the reccomendations as well. I have a Ranger and a YM2000B. I don't intend to haul the tractor unless it needs repair that I can't do myself. I have been thinking along the lines of a 5'x14' dovetail with tandem axle and single brake.

Bruce

I wouldn't anything less than 16' long for my BX23.
2 axles and brakes on all 4 wheels - a must.
Will the ranger stop it?

[GrowingRocks]

I'll agree with most on here as far as pulling a small tractor. I have a CaseIH DX25E and it tips the scales at just under 1400 for the tractor, but by the time I add the loader, mower deck, and all of the fluids I end up closer to 2400 lbs. I ended up with a 16' tandem axle with brakes on one axle, which I have pulled hundreds of miles behind my Jeep Liberty Diesel.

That said, there are a few things to keep in mind when pulling with a smaller vehicle.

1. Brakes are a must. I have a electric controller in my jeep and it does a great job, but without the controller things get a little fishy on the curvy roads around here.

2. No pulling with crap tires - on the trailer or on the pickup. A vast majority of trailer manufacturers ship them with bald car tires, so plan on either doing the upgrade to get decent tires from the manufacturer or go your favorite tire shop before doing much else.

3. Plan on taking your time - As long as you are looking ahead and going appropriate speeds, smaller vehicles pull OK. Kind of like driving on ice...

4. Realize that pulling with smaller vehicles does take its toll on the vehicle. My father used to try to pull a four horse gooseneck with a 1/2 ton pickup, and he always complained that his trucks wore out too quick. He always thought the only difference between 1/2 and 3/4 was the springs until I pointed out the other upgrades, such as larger transmissions...

For your purposes in short trips with a small tractor, you shouldn't have any problems or have to make any special concessions. Personally, I couldn't justify the extra money for aluminum, but I was very picky about the trailer manufacturer. I could have saved $400 on my trailer buying from one builder, but his spot welds look like I did them. (and I haven't welded for years)

A trailer is something that if you buy it correctly, it will last your 20 years. (at least for occasional and not daily use) If you don't know welding, find a friend who does and offer to buy them lunch to help you pick the trailer. Also, some of the smaller manufacturers (such as hederer in Poplar Bluff) will build to your specs, and if you let them know what you expect, the end product might be a little better quality.

Happy hunting...

[LBrown59]

Originally Posted by machmeter62

I agree with HOSEJOCKEY 2002. The down-side with a single axle trailer is the "squirming" of the trailer tires. They are always surging slightly side to side, which causes heat build-up at max trailer weight, and eventually blow outs on a 25 mile drive! I have been there!

If you are going to spend the money for a trailer; get a tandem axle for peace of mind and safety, with surge or electric brakes on at least one axle. I think you will still be within the limits of your towing truck? Your tractor will get a much smoother ride also.

You need double
axles for 2 reasons
4 wheel brakes as you need all the stopping power you can get.
Greater control in case of a tire blow out.

[RobertN]

I would offer the following, based on my trailering, and owning a trailer for a few years.

- Get brakes no matter what. I tow with a 3/4 ton 4x4. I had my 2200lb tractor on a loaned trailer. I got cut off on the freeway, and had to get on the brakes really hard. I could still feel it pushing the truck around. The anti-lock worked on my truck...

- Trailers are really handy to have around. I went with a 16', because my tractor used that much room with the loader and a rear mounted rotary mower. It has been great! I have hauled 10', 12' 16', and 20' lumber and pipe on it. I've hauled hay bales, my two tractors, my Dad's tractor, a buddies tractor, a Bobcat, and ASV RC30, a road roller/compacter(ride on version, both 36" and 48")a Subaru station wagon, a Bronco, a S10 Blaser, Cub Scout parade floats, concrete block retaining wall, firewood, floating docks for Cub Scout day camp, large 7x18 wire panels, and other stuff I can't think of.

- With implements, tractors are long. I think that is part of why a 16' trailer is so popular; it's real versatile

- When calculating how much you can haul, remember the trailer weight. As a reference, my 6x16' dual axle with wood deck is 1600lbs.

- remember to get good chain and binders to secure you load. If it moves on the trailer while towing with a small truck, that might be a wild ride...

You should be able to haul a setup like this. Make sure the brakes are in good shape, and you have a good brake controller. And figure out how to set it properly.

Only bummer about owning a trailer, is another thing to maintain, license, keep tires up on...

[swedish-fish]

Thanks!
In light of what I've heard, I'm leaning towards a used steel tandem with brakes on all wheels. Here is a 16' older trailer...

Here's a 14' landscape trailer.

What I like about these is the price, they are close by and the title shows about 5000 lb weight rating which works well for me and my tow vehicle. Now I just need to come up with some cash... hmmm. 2K tax bill due next month. I may have to be patient on this one.

[Diamondpilot]

Here in my part of the county you could buy a new 16' utility trailer like the one you posted for $1250. They are wood deck, brakes on one axle, and used tires. They sell tons of them.

The type of gate that is on the rear of that trailer I would not have. It will put a major wind drag load on your truck plus if you have something that is 16' 1" long you are in trouble. My cousin has 2 16' trailers, one with ramps and one with a gate. He pulls them with identical 2003 F-150's for his mowing business. He says the one trailer with gate needs 500 rpms more to do 65mph. The gates also bend if you load something like a larger tractor. Get a trailer with ramps.

Chris

[jayhaitch]

Lutefisk: and now for something completely different, as John Cleese used to say. I have a 6.5x12 tandem axle, surge braked on both axles, aluminum landscape trailer, 7500 lb GVWR for my GC2310 which weighs ~3100 lbs with FEL, BH and MMM. I can only tow with the gate off. The FEL sticks out past the end of the trailer. A bit annoying, but it tows beautifully, no major tail-wagging-the-dog sensations, great brakes, and no rust. But I do wish it was longer sometimes....

I got the 12ft because other family members needed a trailer with surge brakes, and didn't want a long trailer. Mostly, I'm using it for utility use, not tractor hauling.

I agree with the mesh gate comment. I got 9 US mpg towing my EMPTY trailer with gate up at 70 mph in a vigorous headwind with my 01 Expedition 5.4. Sheesh!!

My trailer is Continental Cargo brand. I've towed a boat for years, so am used to surge brakes.

After a few years of using it, ideally if I had the space (and Mrs. Jay's approval ), I probably would get an aluminum single axle mesh gate 6.5x10 landscape trailer, and an 8x18 car hauler. That would be the most versatile for my needs. But two trailers are one too many, so this compromise is OK overall.

[drtydeed]

Swedish, make sure you check with your DOT on acceptable trailer brake types. Surge brakes are illegal in some states.

[drtydeed]

Originally Posted by jayhaitch

I agree with the mesh gate comment. I got 9 US mpg towing my EMPTY trailer with gate up at 70 mph in a vigorous headwind with my 01 Expedition 5.4. Sheesh!!

I hear that... I added some length to mine making them a total of 6.5 ft in length. Mine are mesh with built in equip ramps (very heavy duty holmes trailer). My v8 dakota really feels the resistance and I had to add elegator spring assist to help with the #300+ pounds to lift the gates. These elegator spring assists work great and were a necessity for me after having triple hernia surgery this summer