Chains vs Straps (yes, again)

[hemiguy]

No question here that I'm needing to switch to chains and binders. The only question is what do I need and how to use it. I haul my JD2520 TLB on a 6.5x16 7000lb wood decked tandem axle trailer (some pictures are in the trailers & tow rigs thread) 2520 weighs in around 4000lb. Currently using one 10k ratchet strap per corner hooked on to D-rings bolted down through the deck AND trailer frame.
No problems yet but the straps are getting a little worn and I'm not buying new ones.

So is one GR70,5/16" chain (load limit 4700) each for front and rear and one binder each going to be enough? My plan is to put a 3/8" grab hook (rated 5400) on one end of each chain to attach to one D-ring, pass the chain through something solid on the tractor front & rear (BH subframe is beefy) and binder down to the D-ring on the other side. And yes my D-rings are mounted to angle the chains towards the front and rear of the trailer to keep things from shifting. Does this sound like a good plan? Are ratchet binders preferred over lever ones? Again, looks like I'm looking for ones rated 5400lb.

I'll admit I was too lazy to search previous threads on the subject. Any advice welcome.

[MrJimi]

I have lots of lever load binders and they will pop open if the lever is not tied down, I hate them, either to tight or to loose. I now use all ratchet binders and they will not loosen up and if they do, just give them another few cranks and walk away
I get mine from Harborfreight and they are rated for 9,200 pounds each and I use their chain also, you have better chain than I use.
HF ratchet load binders and HF chain here
I would tie it down in 4 corners ( 4 binders & 4 chains ) at a 45 degree angle or close, pulling out and down
Just me, when I tie something down it could roll over and stay there
Jim

[chh]

I think it is really personal preference on the style of binder. I have several of both, but prefer the lever style. I generally use a 30" pipe to break them over them wrap any extra chain around the binder. I have never had one pop open. I live a 1 1/2 miles off the highway and always stop and recheck everything at that stop sign. If it hasn't shifted or gotten any slack by there (our roads are rough) its not going to.

[john_bud]

The "law" says that you only need 2 chains/binders on wheeled loads 10,000 and under. State laws may up the requirements and a few states do require 4 chains/binders on all wheeled loads.

I use 2 chains with ratchet binders. Not the imported junk, but good high quality steel made in USA binders with G70 stamped chain.

The lever lock binders work, but you have to know how to use them. All binders loosen up as the load shifts, so you always have to stop and tighten after the first 15 min or so. The ratchet ones are easier to snug with just a few clicks and off you go. (Use that stop to also check wheel bearings for warmth!)

jb

[em14]

I prefer chain with ratchet binders ... This is where I got mine ... Chain, Chain Supplies, Binder Chains, Lifting Slings and Hooks
Leo

[TimC]

I do something similar to what you are talking about, but I only use one Binder. What I do is I pull the tractor a few inches forward of where I want it to sit, hook the chain through the front frame of the tractor to the trailer, then back into it. Then secure the rear chain. I also use the lever type binders, and the key is using a 3' or so pipe to crank them closed. I also started out with straps, but they wear entirely too much. Every corner they touch starts a rough spot on the strap with wind flapping the straps.

I have been much happier with the chains than the straps.

Tim

[WildWest]

Im not a real big fan of those floor mount d rings ive seen then rip apart.

But on the binder opening up yeah use a cheat pipe but tie it shut with bailing wire also ive hit bumps and had them pop open tie them closed and i also run the wire in the chain and tie it to the trailer just in case.

[grnspot110]

Be sure to check State regulations as to how many chains, some states differ. I use one 5/16" gr70 chain on the front center and one on the back. The back one is hooked to tie ring on one side, run through a draw-bar clevis, to a tie ring on the other side.
As far as binders, it's a matter of personal preference, I use lever 'boomers' and have never had one come loose. They have to be good quality and TIGHT I only recently started using a cheater pipe (getting older & weaker), but use whatever it takes! I generally have a long enough chain to rap it around the boomer a time or two. I do have one ratchet for tight spots.

I've have hauled for a dealer and only lost one item, a IH 1206, (park lock failed while loading) loaded it back on & got out of there! ~~ grnspot110

[powerstroke444e]

Using straps has its place as does using chains. One should not try to angle the chains to much or try to pull the tractor in two with the chains or straps. You should keep the chain as short as possible because if your in a collision you will put all the load on one chain. If you keep the chains just a little off center the load will not move much if one chain should fail. As a note when hauling tractors that are larger you can chain all you want but I have seen someone break an axle using 1/2 chain & binder on a little lawn tractor.
I use both straps & chain on my M5400 with loader & equipment 2 chains & binders with one strap on the equipment on the back.

[RobertN]

Originally Posted by TimC

I do something similar to what you are talking about, but I only use one Binder. What I do is I pull the tractor a few inches forward of where I want it to sit, hook the chain through the front frame of the tractor to the trailer, then back into it. Then secure the rear chain. I also use the lever type binders, and the key is using a 3' or so pipe to crank them closed. I also started out with straps, but they wear entirely too much. Every corner they touch starts a rough spot on the strap with wind flapping the straps.

I have been much happier with the chains than the straps.

Tim

I used to do that. Not any more. Had it loosen up... And, if one corner breaks, that end of the tractor is loose. At that point, the whole tractor is loose.

It's not much more $$$ to put a binder on each corner. I often use only two chains, but set each corner so that it is bound. It leaves some loose chain in the middle of the trailer, but keeps my 20' chains intact for other stuff.

When it is bound at each corner, if one corner does fail, you still have three corners holding.

Even though it is a little additional cost for four binders, that cost is tiny compared to a $15000 tractor and $2000 trailer. Even when I hual my $2000 antique tractor, that's $200 worth of chain and binders on $4000 worth of equipment. That's only 0.1% of the overall investment for the chain and binders.

and, much like I have found many uses for the trailers, I frequently use the extra binders for other loads too.