Bought a trailer for my Kiota ck20 today

[Diamondpilot]

Sorry.

Chris

[TimC]

Originally Posted by rimshot

...
I will also be hunting a used 15" car rim and tire that will fit so I have a spare. I paid $1800.The trailer should work for me and my rig.

Your trailer sounds almost just like my trailer that I use for my CK25. I don't have a backhoe, and if I did it would be too small, but should work for your CK20 with the hoe. You wouldn't want any heavier trailer with your truck anyways.

one word of advise. I wouldn't mess with the 15" Car tire and rim for a spare. My local Northern Tool carries Trailer Tire/Rim assemblies, and the correct configuration for your trailer would only cost ~$100. Car tires in this size are usually not rated for the load that a comparable trailer tire would be. It'd be worth the peace of mind to have the correct spare.

Enjoy your Tractor and Trailer.

[rimshot]

Originally Posted by TimC

Your trailer sounds almost just like my trailer that I use for my CK25. I don't have a backhoe, and if I did it would be too small, but should work for your CK20 with the hoe. You wouldn't want any heavier trailer with your truck anyways.

one word of advise. I wouldn't mess with the 15" Car tire and rim for a spare. My local Northern Tool carries Trailer Tire/Rim assemblies, and the correct configuration for your trailer would only cost ~$100. Car tires in this size are usually not rated for the load that a comparable trailer tire would be. It'd be worth the peace of mind to have the correct spare.

Enjoy your Tractor and Trailer.

====================

Thanks to diamond and you too TimC for checking in. I gotta say that I agree with you Tim. In my case I believe I have the right trailer and so do you. Diamond (who I believe) has said that technically I'm in violation for a technicality.
for the sake of argument, The thing is here, I opted and erred on the side of
safety in this case. I bought a trailer I don't believe I am going to overload. But the argument I'm hearing from diamond (and others)is in my case my maximum weight for trailer hauling with my truck is 6900 lbs. But diamond says because the trailer is stamped as having 7000 lb GVWR and the charts say I can haul only up to 6900 lbs. even though I never will haul that much the potential is there and that makes me guilty.To me,that is the same thing as getting pulled over by the mounties and having the officer come up to your window and say, "Sir, you weren't speeding, but since your car has the potential to speed, im going to stick a ticket up your nose anyway. Something is really screwed up if all this is so. Now, say I take this to heart and run back to the trailer salesman and say, "this trailer has a sticker on it that says I can only haul 7000 lbs on it. I never will haul that much anyway but give me one that is stickered at 6900 lbs." Can't do that because they don't make em but you can order one that stickers out at 6000. Never mind, I got to be legal and my truck only can haul a 6900 lbs of trailer and combined load so I take the darn thing. Guess what? Now that iI fit the bill for the Ford weight rating tables so far as trailer + load combined weight but now i throw my ratings are concerned I'm very close to being overweight for the trailer rating.

It's not your fault diamond you are just calling them as you see them and according to the letter I may be wrong but would not everybody agree I am better off with the 7000 lb trailer as opposed to he 6000lb litttle brother even if one could be located.

And as far as my Ford new truck warranty is concerned I am meeting all the specs with towing package inclding GVWR's and combiined weight ratinigsso therefor should I bust the transmission out of that Ford truck pulling my wights according to Ford, They can spring for a new one. I only have a five mile flat run to transport my tractor back and forth anyway.

OK, i have concluded my rant now so i can startover again. I think my trailer and rig will be just fine.

rimshot

[Builder]

I just skimmed this thread quickly so I might have missed something, but you could ask a few trailer companies if they'd just build you a trailer and make you a plate for 6900lbs max GVWR. I'm pretty sure they would be more than willing to make a 7,000 lb trailer and put a 6,900lb plate on the tongue. Might cost an extra 100-200 bucks.

I think states have "ranges" of GVWR's for trailers, like 6,000lbs, 7,000lbs, etc. so 6,000 is too light and 7,000 is too heavy.

What is your GCWR of your truck??? I'd want to know that, too.

[rimshot]

Originally Posted by Builder

I just skimmed this thread quickly so I might have missed something, but you could ask a few trailer companies if they'd just build you a trailer and make you a plate for 6900lbs max GVWR. I'm pretty sure they would be more than willing to make a 7,000 lb trailer and put a 6,900lb plate on the tongue. Might cost an extra 100-200 bucks.

I think states have "ranges" of GVWR's for trailers, like 6,000lbs, 7,000lbs, etc. so 6,000 is too light and 7,000 is too heavy.

What is your GCWR of your truck??? I'd want to know that, too.

=======================
Hi builder,
According to the table, it's claiming 12000 to12200


rim

[Diamondpilot]

Originally Posted by Builder

What is your GCWR of your truck??? I'd want to know that, too.

It is either 12,000# or 12,200# Builder. He never said exactly what truck he has. All he said was it was a 2007 F-150 4.6L 4x4 with 3.73's. As you know the bed/cab and wheelbase configuration will vary the tow rating. According to the chart his truck has a tow rating of between 6,500# and 6,900#. If I knew the wheel base and cab/bed configuration I could tell for sure.

Rimshot. The reality is you will never get caught more than likely. Just wanted you to know the limits of your truck. Like it has been stated before if there were a accident the insurance companies would be looking for a reason not to pay. I do agree in your situation you are best off with the tandem 7,000# trailer for now. It will serve you well and when you get your next truck you will know what you need.

Chris

[rimshot]

Originally Posted by Diamondpilot

It is either 12,000# or 12,200# Builder. He never said exactly what truck he has. All he said was it was a 2007 F-150 4.6L 4x4 with 3.73's. As you know the bed/cab and wheelbase configuration will vary the tow rating. According to the chart his truck has a tow rating of between 6,500# and 6,900#. If I knew the wheel base and cab/bed configuration I could tell for sure.

Rimshot. The reality is you will never get caught more than likely. Just wanted you to know the limits of your truck. Like it has been stated before if there were a accident the insurance companies would be looking for a reason not to pay. I do agree in your situation you are best off with the tandem 7,000# trailer for now. It will serve you well and when you get your next truck you will know what you need.

Chris

====================================

Thanks Chris and I appreciate the heads up
My truck is a regular cab but it has more space behind the seat than my last F-150. It is not a super cab and should there fore be 145" W.B. I think Ford may be using the same frame however as the supercab but compensate by lengthening the cab and shorting the box to 6 or 6 1/2'. My bed is 8'. The truck is not the lariat package but is a plain jane.

I just got a 2 5/16" ball from Walmart and happened to notice it is rated at only 3500 lbs. I take it they sell higher rated ones and I will be needing one before I go anywhere. The Ford garage installed the controller for the brakes but I have not adjusted that yet. I tested the rig empty and do see the brakes are working. Can anybody offer any tips on adjusting those rear axles so that braking is consistent with tow vehicle. There is a wheel on controller that supposedly does that. Can't do it with snow covered roads and I have those constantly as it seems antilocks on truck are one thing and rear axle braking on trailer seem to be marching to their own own drummer.

rim

[Diamondpilot]

Well, having a standard cab long bed 4x4 with the 4.6L and 3.73's your tow rating is 6,900# and your GVWR is 12,200. You have the best package with that engine and 4x4 so that is good.

As for the controller for the trailer you will have to adjust for each load. If the trailer is empty it will take less brakes compared to pulling your tractor. If you have a mid-weight load like some lumber it will take something different. The way I adjust is to pull the truck out on a straight stretch of road and use the manual brake apply on the controller at about 15 mph. If the brakes lock up back off the gain wheel giving less power to the brakes. Repeat as necessary to get it where it does not lock up the wheels but give maximum braking. After time you will have a feel for where the controller needs to be set.

Chris

[Diamondpilot]

You need to get a ball that matches your trailer along with the tow bar and pin. You may not be able to get one with this capacity at Wal Mart. You will need to hit a Farm Supply store or Trailer Supply Store like a RV dealer. Make sure it all meets V5 rating. That is a government set of standards. Some cheap stuff out for sale does not meet these specs.


Chirs

[Racer71]

Originally Posted by rimshot

I'm wondering how you get the load distributed, does it work out so you think there is enough weight on hitch considering we do not get that much wiggle back and forth room?

rimshot

Get some jackstands under the trailer without it hooked to the truck. Find the sweet spot where the tractor is balanced over the wheels. Move the tractor forward a foot and you will be ok. This will change if you add or remove the back hoe.