Trailers?? Tilt , Dovetail, Wood/metal deck??

[mowpower]

So after reading many of the other threads and looking for a while some questions come up. The need for the trailer is to haul a JD 3520 with FEL, blade, cutter, tiller. Though not all implements at once. Also the occasional car to be hauled and misc other stuff. I'm thinking 18', 10K GVWR, bumper pull. Here is the confusion what does the "dovetail" really offer? Is it just an easier approach angle for loading? Most of the DTs I have seen have ramps so you still need to haul those out. With an 18' DT the flat deck is 16 so does that greatly limit the loading space?

How about a tilt deck seems that would be nice just drive up, but does it have any other downside? Cost is more for a tilt, also if you want to load say the tiller on the front is it possible to push that tilt back down and drive the tractor on?

Deck material: Some of the wood decks I have seen look like crap, many come from the factory with no sealer. I know in my part of the country Eastern Wa. the sun will warp and crack those decks in short order.
Then I guess a metal deck also has some down falls.

I'm sure many of you have found that trailers are a regional thing. Sure you have some manufacturers like PJ, Big Tex that are spread out over the country. Then you have many smaller companies building trailers, some good some not.

I have found a nice PJ with metal deck 18' Dt, 10K GVWR but it's pushing $4000. I would like to stay in the 3K area. Also think I am leaning towards a straight deck with 5' ramps. Trailer won't see a lot of use 6 or so times a year.
Any way thanks for any help or thoughts
Jeff

[Renze]

When at my current employer, we order a Bangkirai wood floor, at a specialised trailerbuilders floor supplier, they allways ask if its an open or enclosed application.

for closed application you get kiln dried. For open trailers you get air dried. This means that for both situations you get the wood dried to an extent that will be most likely the average moisture content of the floor during its life. This will greatly reduce warpage.

We only use Bangkirai, or similar wood. I see many manufacturers in America use pine wood... What else can you expect for 4000 dollar....
Our trailers, basic 5 ton 5th wheel with air brakes, 28mm hardwood floor, aluminium hinged sidewalls of a foot high, with manual steel ramps, start at 9500 euro....

Steel floors are heavy when thick enough to not dent inbetween the crossmembers over time, expensive and slippery when wet. It might be nice that the steel takes more scratching than wood, but THE PAINT ON IT, WILL NOT !

I'd only use steel floors if it was galvanised, zinc can take more scratching before it fails.

[wushaw]

If the cars you load are really low to the ground then you take the risk of dragging bottom without a dovetail.
I like wood, easy to replace, very forgiving and most of all it is not slicker than snot when oily or wet.

[coobie]

Originally Posted by mowpower

So after reading many of the other threads and looking for a while some questions come up. The need for the trailer is to haul a JD 3520 with FEL, blade, cutter, tiller. Though not all implements at once. Also the occasional car to be hauled and misc other stuff. I'm thinking 18', 10K GVWR, bumper pull. Here is the confusion what does the "dovetail" really offer? Is it just an easier approach angle for loading? Most of the DTs I have seen have ramps so you still need to haul those out. With an 18' DT the flat deck is 16 so does that greatly limit the loading space?

How about a tilt deck seems that would be nice just drive up, but does it have any other downside? Cost is more for a tilt, also if you want to load say the tiller on the front is it possible to push that tilt back down and drive the tractor on?

Deck material: Some of the wood decks I have seen look like crap, many come from the factory with no sealer. I know in my part of the country Eastern Wa. the sun will warp and crack those decks in short order.
Then I guess a metal deck also has some down falls.

I'm sure many of you have found that trailers are a regional thing. Sure you have some manufacturers like PJ, Big Tex that are spread out over the country. Then you have many smaller companies building trailers, some good some not.

I have found a nice PJ with metal deck 18' Dt, 10K GVWR but it's pushing $4000. I would like to stay in the 3K area. Also think I am leaning towards a straight deck with 5' ramps. Trailer won't see a lot of use 6 or so times a year.
Any way thanks for any help or thoughts
Jeff

I bought a PJ 20ft 7000 lbs axles dove tail last (2008)spring for $3300.I would go no less than a 20ft. trailer.coobie

[atgreene]

I have had several trailers. Here's a run-down on issues.

Hudson, owned 2 different ones. Lightweight, cheaply made, bent one while hauling my excavator over a rough stretch of frost heaved road. Wasn't overloaded, but bent anyway.

Moritz, awesome trailer. It was a gooseneck 18' deck with 5' convertible beaver tail. Torsion ride, flip down ramps. Excellant trailer, wore out two sets of brakes in 5 years. Would buy another in a heartbeat.

Cam Superline, JUNK! It's an 19', 15' tilt with 4' of stationary deck. 14k gvw, bent the first time I loaded my 7500 lb excavator. Argued for 2 months with them, they took the trailer back, it bent again. They made me a new trailer, new one crushed the brake wires first time I loaded it. They refused to fix again. Paint was splashed on. Fenders were mounted in different location from one side to the other, (Left one was 2" ahead of the right) tilt deck was misaligned, wouldn't tilt without catching. Light boxes were mounted too low, dragged on slight inclines. Hydro cushion ram leaked (hoses were loose) they don't know how to refill ram, no way to do it without removing the ram and valve. Just junk. Want to buy a tilt trailer? I'd love to sell it now that I repaired everything.

My personal preference is a deck over trailer with beavertail and ramps. Lots of room, tows nice, easy to tie stuff down. Torsion rides so smooth you don't have to worry about rattling stuff loose. A between the wheels deck is a pita to tie stuff down. Your hunched over and have to deal with the fenders, which will usually prevent you from opening car doors once loaded (do your best Dukes of Hazard imitation).

Good luck.

[Ordite]

I haul my JD 3320 w/FEL on a 20 ft. H & H tilt bed trailer, 7,000 GVWR, bumper hitch, wood floor, electric brakes on both axles. I like the tilt bed over having to use ramps. I do not have any problem hauling a car and opening the doors over the top of the fenders. I like the lower center of gravity compared to an over the wheels platform. I have also used the FEL to set an implement on the front and then tilt the bed to load the tractor.

My recommendation would be to go with a 20 ft. bed so that you have more room to position the tractor to get the desired tongue weight. I would also recommend the heavier wheels, tires and axles for at least a 10K GVWR. The electric brakes are not as effective as I would like. The trailer frame is 5" channel, 3" channel cross members and seems to be strong enough for my purposes. Have hauled a 6000 lb. skid steer on a few occasions which exceeds the GVWR but have not damaged or bent anything on the trailer.