Weight Distributing Hitch Questions and More

[MossRoad]

Edgemcate me on W.D. hitches please.

For the past few years I have towed our #1500 car hauler with #1500 pounds of stuff on it (#3000 total) only short distances, like down the block to the church/school, a couple blocks to the little league, and a few miles on back country roads to our property, never going very fast, being careful, pulling over for traffic, etc... I had a 3/4 ton van with 4.2L V6 and used a Prodigy brake controller for the trailer. All felt very safe at slow speed etc... but I know it is not really capable, safe or legal for towing safely and wanted to get something adequate for the few times I tow each year. That, and the fact that the van is rotting to the ground with rust, steered us towards getting a different vehicle; a vehicle that could carry at least 6 people and occasionally tow our trailer with tractor to our property safely.

We now have a 1993 Chevy Suburban K1500 with the 5.7 (350) engine.
It has the 4L60E transmission (electronic version of the 700R). Gets good reliability reviews. It is in excellent working condition with only 64,000 original miles. We will continue to use the Prodigy brake controller.

The sticker in the driver side door says:
GVWR 7200/3266
GAWR FRT 3825/1780
GAWR RR 4000/1814

The trailer hitch is made by Drawtite and has the following ratings:
WD (weight distributing) Max Gross 10,000 pounds
WD (weight distributing) Max Tongue 1,000 pounds
WC (weight carrying) Max Gross 5000 pounds
WC (weight carrying) Max Tongue 500 pounds
V-5
To me, that says the hitch is rated to tow #5000 with just a ball, or up to #10,000 with a weight distributing hitch. The Suburban owner's manual says the Suburban can tow up to #10,000 pounds, depending on options. However, I think those options are larger engine, heavier springs, etc... I read somewhere (but now cannot remember where) that my version of the Suburban can tow #7000-#8000, but I cannot find a listing for the GCWR anywhere. The Suburban manual also suggests using sway control on a trailer over #4000. But later in the manual it states that a trailer over #4000 requires a weight distributing hitch and sway control.

Our car hauler trailer is rated at #7000. It weighs #1500. That gives us a useful load capacity on the trailer of #5500. All information I have so far indicates the Suburban can tow at least #7000, so I think we are good to go. I can use a ball hitch for anything under #4000, but if I want to take a larger load, I will need a weight distributing hitch and sway control.

Now that I think I understand the numbers for weight and when I am required to use a weight distributing hitch and when I can get away with just a ball hitch, I have some questions about weight distributing hitches and sway control and where I can find the GCWR.

Will a WD hitch just slip into my receiver or will I need an entirely new setup under the Suburban?

How hard are they to put on and set up?

Once everything is set up and adjusted properly, how easy is it to hook up to and unhook from the trailer? The ball hitch and bull dog connector I currently have only take about two minutes.

What is your preferred brand, type, etc. and why?

What kind of $$ am I looking at for a weight distributing hitch?

Where can I find the GCWR for a 1993 Chevrolet Suburban K1500 with 5.7L engine?

Any advice, thoughts, whacks to the back of the head or pokes in the eye with a sharp stick are appreciated.

Photos and links to web articles/guides are welcome, too.

Thanks in advance.

 

[KeithInSpace]

This is a link I found that answered a few of my questions about the different types of hitches:
Weight Distribution and Sway Control Frequently Asked Questions

A weight distributing hitch does not require any modification of your vehicle what so ever so long as you have a 2" (or larger Class 5) reciever. It requires a special draw bar and requires some attachments be strapped to your trailer on the A-frame behind the tongue.

Regarding the carrying capacity of your ball, that's a little odd. 90% of what I see when I go to the store is the good old 500/5,000 ball and hitch. When I pick up my trailer tomorrow, I'm going to get a heavier 1,000/10,000 ball and SOLID hitch to better partner with the 10,000# trailer capacity.

That said, my brother tows extremely heavy loads all the time (~10,000) for long distances and has never used anything but a normal 500/5,000 ball and hitch. Nothing has fallen off of his rig in many years.

Not that this is the way to go...

I know that doesn't answer all your questions, but it is the sharpest stick I can offer.

 

[MrJimi]

I bought a 30,000 pound ball from southwestwheel
2 5/16

 

[Mike058]

I had a WD hitch for years. Towed a 7000 pound Traveleze with a diesel surburban. The hitch came with the trailer so I didn't have to set it up. Don't think it's hard though-may just take some time. Idea is to get the whole rig level when the spring bars are parallel with the tongue of the trailer. It depends on the height of the ball. Anyway, once it's set up, it's easy to put on and take off. I've had the trunnion style Weight Distribution Trunnion Style and the style where the spring bar bends up and fit's into a tube on the ball mount. Don't like that type so well since it's hard to see up inside the tube and I didn't like the idea of dirt and rocks sticking to the end of the spring bar and ending up inside there. The trunnion style is way easier to clean since everything's out in the open. The WD fits into the 2" receiver just like any other ball mount. Lift brackets are attached to the frame of the trailer, if there are any boxes attached to the tongue, it could be a problem. Hitching up is pretty easy. Hitch goes onto ball and locked on. Trunnion bar goes into ball mount, and chain on other end of bar hooks onto the lift bracket which is in a down position. A short steel pipe that comes with the hitch is used to pry the bracket up into running position. You can jack the tongue up after it's attached to the ball to make this part easier. After you repeat on the other side of the tongue, you raise the tongue jack and away you go. (well, you hook up the electrical, breakaway switch and safety chains too, of course) I found towing much less tiring when using the WD hitch. Trailer was less likely to start fishtailing too.

 

[Egon]

When adjusting the trunnion bars they should be parallel to the trailer frame. The trailer frame should also be parallel to the ground so make sure you have the proper drop on the insert to the hitch. With the holes on the insert you are able to vary this. You must also adjust the ball attachment so it is at the proper angle. All this should be included in the instructions.

Air bags would also help in keeping the rear of the vehicle at the proper height so you steering is not affected.

Haven't a clue about sway control!

And if in doubt visit an RV dealership and talk to one their mechanics on how the hitch should be set up.

 

[fgross335_2210]

One issue you might run into is the ball size. Your 7000lb trailer probably has a 2" hitch ball. Most WD hitches come with a 2&5/16's ball. I have seen WD setups use a 2" hitch ball, but they are not the norm.

I would load up the entire rig and take a look at how it sits before investing in the WD hitch. As long as your suburban and trailer sit relatively level you should not need a WD hitch - although they do make quite a difference. Same comments on the sway control - with an open , double-axle trailer and a total weight of 3000, the sway control is a nice plus, but not a hard requirement.

Also your 1993 5.7 engine is rated at 210-215 horsepower. You will likely find you have plently of brakes/chassis/control and are limited more by the HP than anything else.

 

[MrJimi]

Before you order your towing stuff, make sure you check with our supporting member
Southwest Wheel Company Steel and Aluminum Truck Wheels
and they give a TBN discount

 

[RobS]

Check the owners manual for the GCWR. There is usually a chart based on engine, trans and axle to figure the GCWR. If no manual, a dealer should be able to look it up.

 

[MossRoad]

Thanks, so far, folks. Keep it coming.

 

[KeithInSpace]

I just got some clarification on the "round bar" vs. "trunnion bar" type hitches from the manufacturer. Apparently, it is simply a matter of preference. Each style is more popular in different areas for different reasons, but neither has a real functional advantage over the other.

As it turns out, the "trunnion" style provides more ground clearance since you don't have to come out of the bottom of the hitch and turn 90 degrees back on an arc as you do with the "round bar" style. Look at pictures really close and you'll see what I'm talking about.

According to Ford, my truck (2005 Expedition)is only good to 6,000# without a WD hitch and 9,200# with (since I have the HD tow package).

I ordered a 10,000# trailer with trunnion bar style WD hitch today. Trailer sits fine without the funky hitch, but safe is safe. Leonard is installing the hitch with 1,000# arms for $320...pretty cheap to not have any question about carrying capacity.