New, with alot of questions

   / New, with alot of questions #1  

Nickthegrip

New member
Joined
May 21, 2008
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15
Location
Eastern CT
I'm going to purchase a TLB, and accordingly a trailer to move it. Lets say my tractor ends up in the 5000 pound range (Mahindra 2816 currently has my interest). I'm looking to get a dual axle trailer with assisted braking. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 four door, listed with a GVWR of 6600 lbs, and a GCWR of 12500 lbs per the original sticker. The truck has a 4.7 liter small V8, 3.92 gear ratio, and looks to be set up for a towing package, athough not listed (I'm guess this due to the multiple radiators it has).

I know the truck is not idea for towing, but its what I have, and its paid for, and there is no way I'm convincing my wife otherwise :mad: .

What types of trailers do you recommend, what type of receivers, hitch setups etc, and is a weight distributing hitch a good idea for the weight I'll be towing?

Last but not least ratcheting load binders - how many do I need? one for each wheel, or do I need some in the middle as well? Is there a better way of securing the machine than with these, as its the only thing I'm even remotely familiar with?
 
   / New, with alot of questions #2  
Nickthegrip said:
I'm going to purchase a TLB, and accordingly a trailer to move it. Lets say my tractor ends up in the 5000 pound range (Mahindra 2816 currently has my interest). I'm looking to get a dual axle trailer with assisted braking. I have a 2002 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 four door, listed with a GVWR of 6600 lbs, and a GCWR of 12500 lbs per the original sticker. The truck has a 4.7 liter small V8, 3.92 gear ratio, and looks to be set up for a towing package, athough not listed (I'm guess this due to the multiple radiators it has).

I know the truck is not idea for towing, but its what I have, and its paid for, and there is no way I'm convincing my wife otherwise :mad: .

What types of trailers do you recommend, what type of receivers, hitch setups etc, and is a weight distributing hitch a good idea for the weight I'll be towing?

Last but not least ratcheting load binders - how many do I need? one for each wheel, or do I need some in the middle as well? Is there a better way of securing the machine than with these, as its the only thing I'm even remotely familiar with?

==================

I would imagine there will be divergence of opinion forthcoming on this issue. My tractor is 2100 lbs with FEL add 800 # and with the backhoe you can tally up an additional 1200 #. That is roughly 4100 lbs of payload. My dual axle, rear brakes 16' auto hauler trailer is close to 1800 lbs. Thats all of 6000 lbs of trailer and that includes the payload + trailer. So, looking at the 7000lb rating it's fine. My Ford F150 pickup can GCWR 12500. This is roughly the same rated combo of vehicles as you are talking and according to the State Police weighmaster in my state the vehicle with a payload of that class requires two chains and two binders. I use 5/16 chain D.O.T. rated.

There will be many that will use four binders as a safety option. I asked and that's his story and he's sticking to it.

rim
 
   / New, with alot of questions #3  
Yep, there could be various opinions, however I think that your saving grace on the truck is the 3.92:1 gear. You are probably correct on the tow package, as the second heat exchanger is probably for the tranny.

All in all, if you're transporting local or short distances on fairly level or slight inclines and declines, I'd say the truck will serve you well.

If indeed you compound the work demands with longer hauls, steeper inclines, higher towing speeds on interstate roads, etc, the truck will eventually suffer due to the nature of it's capacity as a light duty truck.

I have a 2500 HD and it too is a light duty truck with its limits. I haul a B7800 on a 7000# dual axle (3500 each) trailer and it does OK.

Granted your truck is paid for but don't overwork it with approaching capacity use or just plain using the truck above its capacity. There lies another issue that the wife will not like.


I use 1 ratchet binder for lateral cinching and 1 ratchet binder for forward and backward securing.

A class III receiver should serve your needs.
 
   / New, with alot of questions #4  
crbr said:
All in all, if you're transporting local or short distances on fairly level or slight inclines and declines, I'd say the truck will serve you well.

If indeed you compound the work demands with longer hauls, steeper inclines, higher towing speeds on interstate roads, etc, the truck will eventually suffer due to the nature of it's capacity as a light duty truck.

I have a 2500 HD and it too is a light duty truck with its limits. I haul a B7800 on a 7000# dual axle (3500 each) trailer and it does OK.

Granted your truck is paid for but don't overwork it with approaching capacity use or just plain using the truck above its capacity. There lies another issue that the wife will not like.


I use 1 ratchet binder for lateral cinching and 1 ratchet binder for forward and backward securing.

A class III receiver should serve your needs.
===========

I am in agreement with crbr. You asked me if I felt comfortable pulling my rig with my truck which is similar to your rig. I have to say that if I had my druthers I would prefer a heavier pickup. As you know, these tractors and attachments present an awfully heavy load. More than I am used to. Thankfully, I don't have to pull my rig very far because that light Ford Triton V8 does it's share of straining pulling the rig on a hill. make sure you get at least a 7000 lb trailer, cl III hitch gear and trailer brakes on at least one (rear) axle. I'm in the same boat as you and I'm not getting a new pick up truck too soon.

Goood luck with the tractor.

rimshot
 
   / New, with alot of questions
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks for the replies - as it stands now my towing will be local roads, not too many hills, and not much highway. Hopefully the truck will do ok with that. I'm glad to hear that you aren't using a weight distributing hitch, just another expense I can do without. I'll re-post to this thread when I'm serious about a trailer, just to make sure I'm making the right decision there.

I've noticed some thoughts about Harbor Freight in some of the threads. While understandably not the best place to shop for some items, is that a place I can get some ratchet binders, or should I go elsewhere?

I appreciate your time and effort :)
 
   / New, with alot of questions #6  
Nickthegrip said:
Thanks for the replies - as it stands now my towing will be local roads, not too many hills, and not much highway. Hopefully the truck will do ok with that. I'm glad to hear that you aren't using a weight distributing hitch, just another expense I can do without. I'll re-post to this thread when I'm serious about a trailer, just to make sure I'm making the right decision there.

I've noticed some thoughts about Harbor Freight in some of the threads. While understandably not the best place to shop for some items, is that a place I can get some ratchet binders, or should I go elsewhere?

I appreciate your time and effort :)
HF is an OK place. I found mine at a Tractor Supply place. They are about $30 each. I also have the mechanical leverage binder (about half the price) as well but it does require a tiny bit more of chain placement to get a good tight cinch (and sometimes a cheater bar for additional leverage). To me the ratchets are the better choice.
 
   / New, with alot of questions #7  
Your truck will be fine. I have a chevy blazer S-10 4.3L with 7000# trailer that i tow my BX24 fel/BH with. I added WD and it made a big difference with handling , i recommend in getting WD for yours even though you have a more wider stance dodge truck, you'll notice the big difference with WD.
 
   / New, with alot of questions
  • Thread Starter
#8  
Whats a good price/brand for a WD setup? I've seen some pretty expensive ones in the 600 dollar range, those are supposedly anti-sway as well.
 
 
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