Did I purchase the right trailer?

[RollTideRam]

I'm glad you got a better trailer and your happy with it. I'm also glad you kept your receipt so you take back the other trailer. Be careful towing with your Jeep, don't get in a hurry and you should be okay. JC

[SamWalton]

I just got off the phone with my trailer dealer and the 9950 GVWR option is a California thing and in Oklahoma no CDL is required for the 10400 GVWR.

[SamWalton]

I picked up our new custom trailer and encountered some problems. While connecting the trailer to my jeep, the diodes smoked. I am sure they miss wired the breakaway battery circuit. After removing the battery and the burnt charging circuit all signals worked fine. After getting the trailer home I took some photos and inspected the design and workmanship. I found what I consider a major problem. The ramp storage was changed by the MFR from side removal to rear and from 5' to 6' ramps. When they did this they may as well welded in a solid axel with no suspension because the axel has a 1/4" before it hits the ramp storage frame. I think they should build a new trailer I don't want a cut and hack for $3600. I should have ordered a 2 dovetail and they would have put the ramps in the side. What should I do?

[ed fewlass]

Originally Posted by SamWalton

My trailer dealer will trade up no problem. I will bring the old one back tomorrow. The trailer I am concerned about is constructed as follows: Frame: 4x3x1/4, Top rail: 3x2x3/16, Cross members: 3x2x3/16, Tongue: 5" Channel, Uprights: 3x2x3/16, Tongue Brace: 3" Channel. This is a nice trailer but when I pull facing front, my rear tires land on the center of the only large span cross support between the two axles. Top Hat Trailers


I think I am going to order the Deluxe Car Hauler 7000 Series found at the following link Top Hat Trailers The trailer is constructed as follows: Frame: 5" Channel, Front Bump Rail: 2" Square Tube, Cross members: 3x2x3/16, Tongue: 5" Channel Wrap, Tongue Brace: 3" Channel, Floor To Fender Height: 10" I was going to add the following options: Spare Tire & Wheel, Surge Brake 7K, Diamond Plate Tear Drop Fenders (Radius), 7000# Drop Leg Jack. For and additional $300 I could upgrade it to a 9500# GVWR. This option would add two 5200# Axles, 2 5/16" Bulldog Coupler, 225/15 Tires, 7000# Drop Leg Jack and 3" Channel Cross members.

Do you all think this trailer will move my B26 safely? Also is the 9500# GVWR necessary? I am worried about adding to much weight for my Jeep Liberty. I have the 5K tow package and I know I will be over by 1500 lbs. I only plan on a few short trips and later I will purchase a truck. Thanks for all your advice!

you can pull 4000# of tractor with a jeep liberty thats sounds kind of small

[SamWalton]

Originally Posted by ed fewlass

you can pull 4000# of tractor with a jeep liberty thats sounds kind of small

I will purchase a truck if and when I need to haul my B26 any distance. Currently I will move it about 5 mile to the home site.

For now I am more concerned about the axle having no travel.

[ed fewlass]

Originally Posted by SamWalton

I picked up our new custom trailer and encountered some problems. While connecting the trailer to my jeep, the diodes smoked. I am sure they miss wired the breakaway battery circuit. After removing the battery and the burnt charging circuit all signals worked fine. After getting the trailer home I took some photos and inspected the design and workmanship. I found what I consider a major problem. The ramp storage was changed by the MFR from side removal to rear and from 5' to 6' ramps. When they did this they may as well welded in a solid axel with no suspension because the axel has a 1/4" before it hits the ramp storage frame. I think they should build a new trailer I don't want a cut and hack for $3600. I should have ordered a 2 dovetail and they would have put the ramps in the side. What should I do?

so let me get this straight you spent 3600.00 to move a tractor 5 miles and you are still not happy with it

[PaulChristenson]

Originally Posted by SamWalton

I just got off the phone with my trailer dealer and the 9950 GVWR option is a California thing and in Oklahoma no CDL is required for the 10400 GVWR.

Don't cross statelines with a 10400 GVWR trailer...

Check with your insurance company...to see if they'll deny coverage if you happen to get into an accident with your grossly under-rated tow vehicle...

I'm NOT saying you can't do it...I just want your to be aware of pitfalls...

[dknarnd]

I don't think everyone heard the entire story from the start. Only hauling 5 miles and not even a daily thing, using a Liberty as a tow vehicle.

I would think he could have gotten away with the first trailer for now then when he buys the truck get the appropriate trailer at that time. Since it is only five miles more than one trip is possible if he needed to bring more "stuff" to the site. If you were concerned about the wood on the first trailer during tow all you had to beef up was that particular area.

That trailer is overkill for hauling materials behind a Liberty the first trailer would have been ok for materials and hauled his tractor the five miles when needed.

[RollTideRam]

I beleive I would take the trailer back and start all over with a new dealer. JC

[NHbotanut]

Are you sure about the 1/4"?? It looks like a litte more in the pic. I don't know enough about steel, but I don't think the trailer would flex that much.