New transport (what size chain)

[kennyd]

Originally Posted by afish

Are you saying I need 4 binders? I was thinking 2 in the front and just chain with no binder in the rear or is that wrong?

Not wrong at all. I park on the trailer while watching the rear of the truck to guesstimate the position on the trailer-it depends obviously what implement I have with me...I look for the truck to settle about 3 inches or so for proper tongue weight and load distribution, once I am parked I do not want it to move so I set the brake, leave tranny in gear and lower the FEL and 3PH.

Then I secure the 4 chains (I use 5/16" as I am only about 3000-3500lbs usually) with 4 binders. To use only 2 binders you will have to leave the machine in neutral with the brake off or you can't get the other two chains tight...or you can park, hook the two rear chains up-then drive the tractor forward to tension the chains...easier for me just to use 4 binders.

[swines]

To use only 2 binders you will have to leave the machine in neutral...

You can do that to bind it down...but, ALWAYS set the parking brake "on" after the chains are tensioned.

If you don't do that, the machine will rock slightly as you transport it, and you'll constantly be re-adjusting the chains. Also, the machine with the parking brake "on" is a far safer load. You can put the transmission in gear, after binding - but the parking brake is a better way to make a static load.

[crashz]

I use two chains (3/8" G70) across the front and back of the tractor and one chain each for any implement including the FEL. All ground engaging attachments must be chained seperately from tractor as well. One racheting binder for each chain.

[em14]

George, you can thank ... Sandman .... aka David from Jax who sent that URL to the FED site to me a while back and I have used it as a reference often ...
Leo

[QRTRHRS]

Originally Posted by afish

Picked up my new to me trailer yesterday pretty excited I think I got a good deal 5k# Dexter easy lube axles 20' diamond plate deck slide out ramps everything seems to be working needs a plug in one tire and have to extend the chains by the hitch and a coat of paint for the deck and fenders she will be looking good. My question is since I have never transported my tractor before What size chain should I get? I know it has to be grade 70 and whats the best way to chain it down and attach at the tractor? Should I use a separate chain at each corner or use one of those V-chain bridals with those large J hooks Anyone have any pics of there tractor chained down on there trailer

thanks in advance

I thought I would add some info about proper placement of the hooks and a suggestion for the tractor end of the chain.

A piece of used fire hose (if you can find some) slipped over the chain will protect the paint on the tractor if you are trying to keep it nice and is perfectly acceptable.

If your trailer has stake pockets and you use them to secure the chain then you must hang the hook on the pocket. You can feed the chain down through the pocket and then bring it back up the side keeping it within the rub rail if there is one. You may also feed the chain in front of or behind the pocket and come up through to hang the hook on the pocket.

Only hang a hook on the rub rail if there is no pocket available and even then, the chain should feed inside then come up the outside and get hooked.

The point is to hang your hook in the event that the chain goes slack, the hook will not drop off allowing the chain to be free.

It is also a good idea to put a bungee on your chains to take up any slack when the chain bounces while going down the road.

[AlanB]

OK, I have heard it many time's here, and am just not seeing it in the reg's (even the ones quoted here)

I am not asking what "best practice" is, or "what I do", or even "what someone should do to prevent entaglements with the law"

I often see comment's where folks say you "must" use grade 70 (transport) chain.

Can anyone point that too me in the regulations?

My position would be you must use a size and grade of chain with an appropriate WLL for the securing that you are doing. I also believe that is what the regulations say, but would like someone here to prove me wrong then the DOT to be showing me what I have missed.

[swines]

Originally Posted by AlanB

OK, I have heard it many time's here, and am just not seeing it in the reg's (even the ones quoted here)

I am not asking what "best practice" is, or "what I do", or even "what someone should do to prevent entaglements with the law"

I often see comment's where folks say you "must" use grade 70 (transport) chain.

Can anyone point that too me in the regulations?

My position would be you must use a size and grade of chain with an appropriate WLL for the securing that you are doing. I also believe that is what the regulations say, but would like someone here to prove me wrong then the DOT to be showing me what I have missed.

Each state has its own regulations - it's up YOU to find out the requirements - point yourself at the regulations that apply to you in your state and interpret them for yourself.

Most states just use the Fed regs, but some have additional criteria - that's up to you to find out.

If you cross state lines you have to meet the Fed Regs.

You MUST:

1. Prevent the loss of the load.

2. Prevent the load from shifting.

The performance criteria that must be met:

Performance criteria. Cargo securement devices and systems must be capable of withstanding thefollowing three forces, applied separately:

(1) 0.8 g deceleration in the forward direction;
(2) 0.5 g acceleration in the rearward direction; and
(3) 0.5 g acceleration in a lateral direction.

As for securement devices:

The new rules do not prohibit the use of unmarked tiedown
devices.

However, if the tie down is not marked it will be rated at its lowest rating level.

For chain:

However, in view of the potential safety hazards of motor
carriers misidentifying unmarked tiedowns, there is a provision that unmarked welded steel chain be considered to have a working load limit equal to that
of grade 30 proof coil, and other types of unmarked tiedowns be considered to have a working load limit equal to the lowest rating for that type in the table of working load limits.

For webbing (strap tie downs):

...other types of unmarked tiedowns be considered to have a working load limit equal to the lowest rating for that type in the table of working load limits.

For machinery less than 10,000 pounds may be treated as machinery OVER 10,000 pounds; OR as an automobile or vehicle being transported.

Vehicles, equipment and machinery which is lighter than 4,536 kg (10,000 lbs) may be secured in accordance with these rules [note: heavy equipment - see 393.130], the rules for automobiles, light trucks and vans, or the general freight requirements.

Automobiles, light trucks, and vans must be restrained at both the front and rear to prevent lateral, forward, rearward, and vertical movement using a minimum of two tiedowns.

Most people use Grade 70 because:

1. The chain is readily available.

2. Easily meets the requirements of Fed and state regs.

3. It secures the load safely.

The reason for using more than two tie downs is the load is divided by the number of tiedowns. Additionally, for safety, the use of multiple tie downs is far better. It is quite easy for a single tie down to come loose. If you've only used one on the front and one on the rear - and one tie down comes loose, you've lost the total securement of either a front or rear tie down - or 1/2 of the tiedown capacity - and potential securement of the load in a movement direction.

If you've used two tie downs in the front and two in the rear (4 total) and one loosens, you've only lost 1/4 of the tie down capacity - AND retained securement of the load in all directions.

But, by all means -- do your own thing. Use marked chain, unmarked chain, webbing straps, ropes --- whatever you want as long as you can meet the miminum requirements.

Be prepared to argue with every state, local, and federal agency inspector or any policeman who feels they have a need to pull you over and inspect your load. Bring your copy of the state and federal regulations so you can state "your position" on the requirements, and have a field day "proving they're wrong" - and your right .... whatever makes your day.

[swines]

Originally Posted by afish

Are you saying I need 4 binders? I was thinking 2 in the front and just chain with no binder in the rear or is that wrong?

Regs say....

Each tiedown, or its associated connectors, or its attachment mechanisms must be designed, constructed, and maintained so the driver of an intransit commercial motor vehicle can tighten them. However, this requirement does not apply to the use of steel strapping.

Now, I suppose you could argue that you're NOT the driver of a commercial motor vehicle so this regulation doesn't really apply to you....but, is it prudent to have a tie down that can't be tightened? I think you'll find having every tie down adjustable is a bonus when you have to readjust the tie downs because they've loosened a bit in transit.

The problem with rubber tired machinery is that it will move up and down very slightly because of the inherent elasticity in the rubber. This works on the tie downs over time to loosen them. IF you can bind the tractor down hard enough to slightly compress the tires - this nearly eliminates the problem....

If you have liquid filled tires you'll find getting them to compress is a bit problematic....

[QRTRHRS]

Originally Posted by swines

Regs say....



Now, I suppose you could argue that you're NOT the driver of a commercial motor vehicle so this regulation doesn't really apply to you....but, is it prudent to have a tie down that can't be tightened? I think you'll find having every tie down adjustable is a bonus when you have to readjust the tie downs because they've loosened a bit in transit.

The problem with rubber tired machinery is that it will move up and down very slightly because of the inherent elasticity in the rubber. This works on the tie downs over time to loosen them. IF you can bind the tractor down hard enough to slightly compress the tires - this nearly eliminates the problem....

If you have liquid filled tires you'll find getting them to compress is a bit problematic....

Swines, I am in agreement with you on this as well as your previous post on why to use Grade 70 chain.

I find cross tying sprung vehicles like a car especially effective in keeping them in place.

Using bungees on the chain will help to negate the effect of the flexing.

Beyond that, more is better. When I was hauling pole barn materials, due to the irregularity of the materials, I would strap, strap and strap some more. From the ground, it might look redundant which it often was, but I never lost anything.

And, I passed a stone faced muster on quite a few occasions without being pulled out of the line.

[AlanB]

Originally Posted by swines

Each state has its own regulations - it's up YOU to find out the requirements - point yourself at the regulations that apply to you in your state and interpret them for yourself.

Most states just use the Fed regs, but some have additional criteria - that's up to you to find out.

If you cross state lines you have to meet the Fed Regs.

You MUST:

1. Prevent the loss of the load.

2. Prevent the load from shifting.

The performance criteria that must be met:



As for securement devices:



However, if the tie down is not marked it will be rated at its lowest rating level.

For chain:



For webbing (strap tie downs):



For machinery less than 10,000 pounds may be treated as machinery OVER 10,000 pounds; OR as an automobile or vehicle being transported.





Most people use Grade 70 because:

1. The chain is readily available.

2. Easily meets the requirements of Fed and state regs.

3. It secures the load safely.

The reason for using more than two tie downs is the load is divided by the number of tiedowns. Additionally, for safety, the use of multiple tie downs is far better. It is quite easy for a single tie down to come loose. If you've only used one on the front and one on the rear - and one tie down comes loose, you've lost the total securement of either a front or rear tie down - or 1/2 of the tiedown capacity - and potential securement of the load in a movement direction.

If you've used two tie downs in the front and two in the rear (4 total) and one loosens, you've only lost 1/4 of the tie down capacity - AND retained securement of the load in all directions.

But, by all means -- do your own thing. Use marked chain, unmarked chain, webbing straps, ropes --- whatever you want as long as you can meet the miminum requirements.

Be prepared to argue with every state, local, and federal agency inspector or any policeman who feels they have a need to pull you over and inspect your load. Bring your copy of the state and federal regulations so you can state "your position" on the requirements, and have a field day "proving they're wrong" - and your right .... whatever makes your day.

So, to sum up what you said,

No, you cannot show me in the reg.

Thanks for all the help.

I am sure you carry your regs to prove that you have the "proper sized" grade 70 chain with you as well as your weight ticket.