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05-10-2009, 01:19 AM #1
I recently bought my first tractor (Mahindra 2615). I bought a trailer with the tractor. I have several questions as to what to buy to tie the tractor down.
1. What are the advantages/disadvantages of lever verses ratchet binders? It seems like with the ratchet binders you could get them in a position where they cannot be tightened.
2. I think I need four binders and 5/16 chain for the tractor and a heavy strap for implement(s). Does this sound sufficient?
3. As to chain, do most of you use one long chain per binder putting the binder in the middle of the chain to take up slack or do you use a short chain at each end of the binder?
4. So far I知 thinking of buying the Harbor Freight binders. I have yet to decide where to buy the chain. Any thoughts?
Thanks for any input. I want to make sure I do this safely and as cost effective as possible. I have no experience towing a tractor but have towed boats, stock trailers, and many other items. My concern is not towing the tractor but strapping it to the trailer.
05-10-2009, 02:15 AM #2
Have to post my opinion on Binders- I hate the ratchet binders. Bought 2 after reading others who liked them, and have tried to use them. The handle always seems to be in the wrong spot.After ratcheting for a while you figure out there is too much chain and you unwind them and try again. this week I'm buying the lever binders. Much easier to use and store.Sackett aka "Steve"
TSgt, USAF Ret. 1981-2001
2008 Montana 4344HST
4' Brush Hog; 6' rear blade; 6' box blade
"Thanks for the tractor Rick"
In memory of my brother
Richard A. Hansen 1961-2008
SSgt, USAF Ret. 1980-2000
05-10-2009, 07:30 AM #3
- Join Date
- Dec 2008
I know I am in the minority here, but I use straps. I just get ones that are overrated for the job, and use them. They work for truckers, and are very handy. Just my experience.
05-10-2009, 07:43 AM #4
- Join Date
- Oct 2004
- New Brunswick, Canada
- Kubota B7800, Case 450
You will get lots of different opinions on this. Here's my take on it.
I kept my chains and binders when I sold off my heavier trucks and equipment.
1. I've never used ratchet binders because the lever binders always worked fine for me. I use a snap-on extension (piece of pipe) to squat the tires on the tractor when I'm binding down. That way there's always tension in the chain - less chance of coming loose (the lever binder goes over centre to lock). Every one of my binders has a piece of wire attached to the handle so I can tie it in the locked position. I also wrap any excess chain around the binder. Ratchet binders might be better on tracked equipment (no tires to squat).
2. I use 4 binders - one on each corner of the tractor. I use a lighter chain and binder for each attachment (because I have them and I'm not worried about scratches). I would think a good strap would be OK for implements attached to the tractor.
3. I use one long chain and bind it anywhere along its length that I have room to do it (depends on the setup). Actually, I use only 2 longer chains and 4 binders to tie down the tractor. Each of the 2 long chains has a loose piece in the middle that effectively makes each long chain into 2 shorter chains (if you can follow that rambling explanation). I like having the long chains for other jobs.
4. I recommend G70 chains - 5/16" should be good for a CUT (I don't know the weight of your tractor), but you just might get a better deal on pre-packaged 3/8" chains with the hooks installed at some place like Home Depot). I like longer chains (15' - 20') with a grab hook on one end and a slip hook on the other, for versatility. Make sure the binders have a WLL (working load limit) that matches the chain. A 3/8" binder will work on both 3/8" and 5/16" chain.
Hope this helps.Kubota B7800, LA402 FEL, Homemade cab, 60" bushcutter, 74" rear snowblower.
Case 450 c/w 6-way dozer.
05-10-2009, 07:57 AM #5
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Daleville, IN
- Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work
I actually have both, chains and straps. I like regular binders. Either way, I use either one strap or one chain on each of the 4 corners.
05-10-2009, 08:24 AM #6
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
Loading has become very tricky with all the DOT regs around. Stuff that works and has worked forever isn't legal anymore, or isn't enough anymore. Your government in action.
I like chains, and I like lever binders. Ratchet binders work fine, I've just always used levers.
Buy at least Grade 70 chain and maybe better. You get a better working load limit (WLL) for a lot less weight. Try to buy made in america chain and binders, it will actually be the grade it's rated at.
For vehicles under 10,000lbs, you need a minimum of two chains (I'm using chains, you could use straps, it's just wording at this point) and the WLL of the chains (remember, it's the lowest of the chain, ends or binders, so they should all match) must equal at least half the weight of what you are hauling. (vehicles over 10,000lbs need a minimum of four chains)
Anything held in place by just hydraulics, not mechanically pinned must also be chained down. This includes the FEL/bucket or a backhoe if you have one.
So, what I do is use my good chains, one thru the front (where I have some loops attached to the frame, you can just use the frame, I haul all the time) and then one over the three point (mechanically attached). Then I take some wimpy chain and run it over the bucket or FEL up front (I run without a bucket a lot, I just run thru the FEL arms, if you run with a bucket, you must go over the bucket). It's not really adding WLL, it's just holding the FEL/bucket down. Oh, any loader/bucket/backhoe must be on the trailer. (can't be sitting up like in a too short dump trailer)
Shorter chain runs have less chance to get slack in them. Long runs are tough to tighten up and stay there. As herringchoker said, you have to use a persuader (cheater bar) and you have to make the tires squat a little. You're supposed to check after 25 miles or 30 minutes of driving. I always try to check right before I get on the freeway.
Oh, I buy my chains from truckntow.com. not the cheapest, but they have a real good selction and verbage explaining what each one does. They also offer a bunch of made in america chain/binders.
If you use straps instead of chain, you have to use something to protect the edge from getting chafed. (commonly over the bucket or any sharp edge).
05-10-2009, 09:10 AM #7
I used to use nothing but lever binders, but this year I switched to all ratchets. They are just much more secure. Harbor Freight binders are of remarkably good quality for the price, although I did get one defective one (bad casting) that had to be exchanged.
05-10-2009, 10:19 AM #8
- Join Date
- Jun 2006
- Baton Rouge, La.
- MAHINDRA 3510 w/ ML112 FEL
I've been using the Harbor Freight ratchet binders for years with no problems. Compared to the lever style, the only disadvantage to the ratchet binders that I can think of is, you have to keep them lubricated and stored out of the elements when not in use.
JoeThe original point and click interface was a Colt.
Only two defining forces have ever offered to die for you... the AMERICAN SOLDIER and JESUS CHRIST. One died for your freedom; the other for your soul.
05-10-2009, 11:02 AM #9
Thanks for the replies. If straps are ok I would rather use straps. My tractor and FEL weigh about 3300 lbs. Straps seem easier to work with. For those of you that use straps what should I consider other than the working load limit?
05-10-2009, 12:50 PM #10
I use the 10k 3300 WLL straps for small stuff. They will loosen up, so plan for it. As others said make the runs short, avoid chaffing, come off the machine and straight down as possible, don't go for the corners of the trailer. Last thing is tie up the loose strap ends - don't want one to unroll & get stepped on by the trailer wheels running down the road.
One thing you might consider is replacements as they get wet, dirty, oily, greasy and frayed anyway. Chain is more durable, ratchets safer than snap binders.Veneer Tree Farmer