Advice on Trailer Purchase

[jedens]

I am looking for a trailer to haul my L4610. I currently have a FEL and a backhoe on it. The tractor is approximately 10' long, the backhoe is approx 8' in transport position and I'm guessing the FEL adds another 5' to 6' on the front. I've never bought a trailer before so I don't know what I'm looking for. Any advice on types, brands, etc. Also any idea of what I will need to spend. I will want ramps on it, and want the option to add side rails to be able to haul brush with it. I've got a 3/4 ton duramax diesel to pull it with.

 

[RanchMan]

/w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif Well, I'll leave a lot of your points open as I'm sure there are others with experience with bigger trailers than I have (18' tandem). One thing I will comment on though is height of the trailer vs. length if you are wanting to "haul brush" with it. Something to consider is the possibility of "tail dragging" due to the distance between the axles and the end of the trailer. If your trailer is "too long" or "too low" (e.g. "low-boy" type) depending on the roads/paths you travel, you can run into issues.

Well, there's $.02 to get you started! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif I'm sure others will add to the pot! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

 

[Turfman]

That's a pretty good sized tractor. What is it's weight? You might need to consider a goose neck.

I have a 16 foot conventional trailer for my B2710 and it just fits with the box blade on the back, FEL on the front and a landscape rake in front of it all and under the FEL. Longer would have been a bit better for me, but MONEY is always a consideration here (lots of kids to feed). Mine is a 10,000 lb trailer so that I can handle pallets of sod. What are you planning on towing it with?

Turfman

 

[jedens]

Hi RanchMan,
Thanks for the input on the height of the trailer and the potential for tail dragging. I hadn't thought of that, but it will be something that I'll need to consider because I've got some very uneven terrain that I'll want to pull it over so I can load it with brush. Got any idea what the ground clearance is on a low-boy vs. a regular? Thanks again.
Joe

 

[jedens]

Hi Turfman,
The weight on the tractor is 3200 lbs, the FEL and bucket (with grapple) together are about 1000 lbs, and the backhoe is about 1450 lbs. So with just those implements I'm at 5650 lbs. I don't have a box scraper yet but when I get one I'm sure I'll want to put it on also. Hopefully it could fit under the FEL like you do with your rake. I have a chevy duramax diesel to pull it with and it has a towing capacity of around 12,000+ lbs, so I should be ok on towing capacity.
Does your box blade actually fit on the trailer or does it hang over a little. I heard someone once say that let their rear implement hang off the end of the trailer. Is there a legal problem with that? Thanks.
Joe

 

[RanchMan]

jedens -

No problem! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

The traditional "low boy" trailers most folks think of are those that use a gooseneck type attachment and have the axles at the rearmost part of the trailer. The "low boy" I was referring to probably, to be more accurate, should be called a "drop axle" trailer.

As far as the actual height difference between the two types, (e.g. Drop axle vs. straight) it will vary based on trailer design. I would guess it it should typically range anywhere from 4"-6" difference in ground clearance.

For example, a "spring under" on a drop axle trailer will get that sucker LOOOOOW to the ground. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif Kindof nice if your towing a corvette around (and don't have a tilt-bed trailer) as it reduces the breakover angle between the ramps and the bed. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Bad if you have to go over anything poking up (some speedbumps) or thru dips (taildragger). /w3tcompact/icons/sad.gif

With a tractor, for the most part you don't have to worry about the breakover between the tractor & trailer (plenty of clearance) but some cars, well there could be an issue. If you are towing your trailer around on the stereotypical "ranch", well ground clearance is a necessity. If you ever go to a "true" lowboy trailer, although you won't have to worry about the "taildragger" scenario, you'll introduce issues with breakover angle and potentially "high centering" it. Just something else to think about I suppose. /w3tcompact/icons/hmm.gif

I've pasted a couple of links on trailers & axles for you to check out if you're curious, along with attaching a picture of my trailer with my tractor on it to this message. The extra height is great for towing things around on rough/uneven roads, but raises the CG and helps the mileage go down due to wind resistance. Overall, I'm very happy with my trailer - a "low boy" / drop axle simply wouldn't have worked for me.

Hope this helps! /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.standens.com/MeasureAxle.htm>Axle Info</A>

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.bnmtrailersalesinc.com/utility-trailers/drop_axle_gate_removesides.html>Drop Axle utility trailer</A>

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.toysandjoys.com/products/64.html>Typical Low-Boy trailer</A>

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.goldenwesttrailers.com/open.asp>Bunch of different trailer pics</A>

 

[bsauter]

I use a 12,000 lb Corn Pro for my L3010, loader and bushhog behind a 1 ton Ford Crew Cab w/ Powerstroke.

You are more than set for a tow vehicle obviously. I would look for a trailer at least like mine or higher rating.

Mine has a 20 foot deck and is a tag along so I can use my wifes 3/4 ton 8.1 liter Suburban if I have to. My tractor is 19 feet with the loader and bushhog attached so there is no room for much more though I can tuck a little more on if needed.

I second the notion that you should look for a good gooseneck. Buy more than what you think you need and down the road you won't be dissapointed.

 

[Turfman]

Mine will fit without the box hanging over, but it puts too much weight on the tongue. I am going to back it up a bit and have about 12 inches overhang. Here you can have up to 4 feet of overhang, then you need to flag it with a red flag. With the flag you can go up to 6 feet rear overhang. Over 6 feet you need to have a special and costly permit.

 

[Gary_in_Indiana]

If you go with a gooseneck or fifth wheel trailer you can get a lot more on the deck behind your tractor because you can set your bucket on top of the "gooseneck" portion. The same overall truck and trailer length will give you a lot more space behind your backhoe that way.

Don't worry too much about getting one that'll accomodate sides right away. You can always modify for those later by welding on stake pockets or by doing what I did. You can take some 1 1/2" square tubing and cut 2" lengths to weld vertically to the sides then weld 2"x1/4" flat stock horizontally to them all around. Your vertical 2"x 4" lumber will fit between that and the trailer frame and you have the added advantage of being able to attach chains or straps anywhere along any outside edge of your trailer. Believe me, there is no such thing as too many attachment points on a trailer. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

One thing I'll suggest if you go that route is to build your wooden sides first. Then you can set them on your trailer sides and mark where you do and don't want the swuare tubing to be welded. Fortunately, I didn't have to learn that one from experience, but it's a good idea, nonetheless.

 

[cmsedore]

Don't forget that the Kubota specs lists weight without tires. I figure my L4610, LA852, with loaded rears is in the neighborhood of 5000 lbs (tractor w/loaded rears is probably 4000 and the loader is another 1000).

-Chris