GVWR and trailer label versus what is on the trailer

[sacsr]

I have a used 16ft tandem axle trailer. The sticker/label shows both axles to be rated at 1750 with a gvwr of 3500lb.....

Trailer looks to be heavy duty.....tags on axles say 3500lbs.......

what gives??? I tried to call the manufacturer and got a resident not a business.

I bought it to haul a small yanmar with fel and bushhog....figuring under 3000lbs for all of it......

Trailer is made with square tubing and seems to be very heavy duty....

both axles have electric brakes......?????

 

[Diamondpilot]

It was registered that way to stay away from requirements of the state. Most states do not require brakes under 3,500#. It also made it cheaper to plate. It was probably used by a commercial mowing outfit and he figured he would never be above that weight pulling a couple of ZTR's. I see that quite often here. Its called de-rating.

The only way to correct this is lose the title and vin plate on the trailer. Apply for a new vin plate and title at your local license branch then it will have to be inspected. Atleast that is the way it works here in Indiana. What they do is you take in all the info to the license branch, they fill out paper work, you go to a trophy shop and have a data plate made and affix it to the trailer, call your local sheriff for a inspection, he or she inspects it and signs off the paper work, you go back to the license branch and a new title and registration is issued. Some states also make you take it to a weight station to be inspected.

Chris

 

[sacsr]

thanks for your response. You always have good info.

Interesting....it does have electric brakes on both axles.....

anyway to verify what the frame will hold?? floor joist are 3 or 4 " square tubing on about 30" centers 2 by 8 boards on top.....tongue goes back to right in front of fender but doesn't not attach....

none of it is angle iron.....all square tubing.....execept frame which is a half of a rectangular frame (3 sided....with tubing welded to the top of the inside of the frame....

gate is mesh but heavy duty compared to most I see with 7 supports going across counting the 2 on the outside of gate frame.

just don't want to drive down the road and see it collapse with my tractor on it.

thanks

 

[Diamondpilot]

A picture would be great but I would say its built as a 7,000# trailer from your description. By the way the 3 sided pieces are refereed to as "C" channel. You need to weight it then subtract that weight from its 7,000# rating and that will give you the payload.

For example if it weighs 1,500# you would have a capacity of 5,500#.

Chris

 

[sacsr]

Here are a few pics.....maybe it will help...thanks.

 

[JB4310]

Chris knows his trailers, but to me looking at the frame tubes in front it's hard to tell but looks like it may not be 7K, especially if those tubes are thin walled. What does the coupler say? You will be limited by that. Also have to look at springs, if it was built as only 3500 pound trailer then the springs would (or may) only be rated as such. and also check tire rating. Seems a shame they would derate it in half, can't be that much a difference in registration fees.

I've got a similar situation where my tag says 9K but I have two 5K axles. At least you (and I) know the axles are not the weak link.

If you can't uprate it then it's gonna be cutting it close, putting 3K on a 3500# trailer, might just make it with 10-15% on the tongue, since you are able to deduct that from the payload, cause it's not on the axles.

JB.

 

[Diamondpilot]

That looks like a 7,000# trailer to me. Check the tire ratings to make sure they are 1,750# or more each and you will be good to go.

Chris

 

[schmism]

i dont know about 7K lbs.... usually those angle iron "landscape" trailers are fairly light duty. Could you haul 7K occationaly on it.... i suppose...

would i pick a different trailer that i didn't have questions about and wasnt a angle iron main frame.... ya.

based on information presented, id say 3.5-5K would be a good avg load size for that trailer.

 

[California]

I think you're fine. Anything with two axles and decent tires should be sufficient for that little Yanmar.

I hauled my YM186D home on my one axle 2k 4x8 utility trailer behind my Subaru and everything was (barely) within rated limits. Photo.

Figure 1600 lbs for the tractor with ROPS, 200 for loaded tires or wheel weights, 400 lbs for a rotary mower, 600??? lbs for the loader, that's only 2800 lbs. Maybe another 100 lbs for jerry cans, tiedown chains, and estimating errors. You are still well under any relevant rating, except maybe the rated tow capacity of a compact tow vehicle.

I suggest for reassurance, go to Home Depot or Tractor Supply and look at the rating tags on similar trailers.

 

[mjncad]

The great unknown is the wall thickness of the square tubing. According my steel book, the Min/Max for 3" tubing is 14GA (0.083" real thin), and the max is 3/8" (overkill). The Min/Max weight per foot for 3" tubing is 3.23-pounds/12.16-pounds.

As for 4" square tubing, the Min/Max wall thicknesses are 11GA (0.120") and 1/2". The Min/Max weight per foot is 6.45-pounds/21.63-pounds.

If you got real bored, you could reverse engineer the trailer to figure out the square tubing wall thickness by subtracting out known weight values of various components and calculating what's left. However you would have to be real bored and **** to do that.

I'd say Diamondpilot has given good advice to you.