Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck

   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck #1  

brianMO

Silver Member
Joined
May 4, 2004
Messages
154
Location
Missouri
Tractor
TYM T330 w/ lt300 loader
I have a homemade 10k tandem that has troubled me for some time trying to safely distribute my load. The builder put the axles right in the middle of the trailer. Fine when I back my tractor into the trailer, otherwise I cannot get the tongue weight needed to safely tow down the road. Options are setting the axles back further or extending the front. Extending the front another 4 feet seems to me an easier option. If I am going to do this I might as well make it a gooseneck. Any body have any basic plans of doing this. I do weld and feel very competent of my ability. Pictures would help propel my ideas if you have any. I think 4 more feet would put my axles where they need to be, and will give me much more addition room. Any ideas?
 
   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck #2  
Only advise I can give is keep the deck ratio at 65% forward of the axles center and 35% rear of the axles center.

The main issue I see with you going GN and having only 10K of axles is you will be left with a trailer that will not haul much. GN's are on average 800# or so heavier in the length you are talking. I am thinking you would best off to sell this trailer and get a GN if that is what you want or just extend it and keep it a bumper pull.

Chris
 
   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck #3  
I added 4' to a 16' roughly 27 year old homemade trailer last weekend. I have a short bed truck so I did not consider a gooseneck hitch. We cut the trailer at offset locations behind where the tongue triangle connects to the main frame. Then 2" square tubing 1/4" thick walled was added under the original 5" channel extending back from the tongue triangle to the front suspension mount. Additional support was added below the 3" channel rails running lengthwise as well. Then 4 foot long pieces of 5" and 3" channel were added to the original frame and additional cross members were added. When we finished the trailer was 1/16th out of square. When we started it was 1/8th out of square.

The axles may be a little too far to the rear but I also did this to increase tongue weight. If they are too far back I will remount them further forward or I have another axle that could be added.

10041103-120.jpg

10041105-120.jpg


This is a before picture

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I still need to rewire and refloor. The work done above was about 8 hours each for two guys working slowly and taking trips to locate parts.

Chris, is your 65/35 ratio for gooseneck or bumper pulll trailers? Also does it include the length of the tongue?
 
   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck
  • Thread Starter
#4  
10k should be enough because my largest load will only be about 6k. I just need the addition room for implements. My tractor weighs in at under 4k and a couple of implements should be all I would haul. Trailer probably is in the neigborhood of 3k, with the addition of the 4 feet and goose neck I am sure I will be close to max. I never have used a gn trailer but I would think it should handle better and be easier to back up.
 
   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck #5  
The axles may be a little too far to the rear but I also did this to increase tongue weight. If they are too far back I will remount them further forward or I have another axle that could be added.

Chris, is your 65/35 ratio for gooseneck or bumper pulll trailers? Also does it include the length of the tongue?

Very nice Job Bruce. I would add a third axle if needed to increase the trailers capacity as long as the frame is up to the additional weight.

As for the 65/35 rule its just a starting point on BP trailers. GN can be further back.

Brian

Remember you may want to use the trailer for something other than your current tractor/situation. I would hate for you to do the work and have to redo it again in 5 years.

Chris
 
   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck #6  
Thanks Chris,

I am going to try it on short hauls and if needed I have two spare axles sitting beside the trailer. One of them can be put on in a few hours. I bought a newer truck (2007 GMC Sierra Denali with Z60 suspension) and have had trouble getting enough weight on the tongue. I think that I will like having the ability to load the weight forward while keeping the FEL bucket behind the rail.

Brian,

What is your trailer constructed out of? I assume your 10K limitation is that your trailer has two 5200 pound axles underneath it.

The issue with trailer frame strength is the length of span where the weight is supported. As the span increases the weight any particular size of steel beam can support decreases. So to add length we also need to add to the frame supporting it.

In my case I added 4' of length between the tongue and the axles increasing that section from 6' to 10' (approximately). I also added 7.5' of 2x2x1/4 tubing under each 5" channel on the outside of the frame and 3/16" thick sign posts with 1.5" sidewalls to the 3" channel on the inside of the frame.

My other alternative plan was to build 4' of trailer on top of the tongue then move the front rail forward and install a new tongue. If I were converting to gooseneck this would have been the preferred route. The 5" channel from the original tongue would remain in place in a traingle shape supporting the main frame rails. I likely would have added additional support to the area behind the original tongue triangle to the front axle.

By adding 4' in front of the axles we add 4' of additional span to that section. If we move the axles forward then we increase the span in front of and behind the axles. If we add a third axle in front of our existing axle then we increase the axle capacity of the trailer and add a lesser amount of additional span, perhaps 1.5' to 2'.

I know that the trailer I added length to handled 12K+ loads of hay for 15 years on its original frame. When I refurbished it 1.5 years ago we doubled the number of cross members and rewelded areas where the tongue had broken free of the main frame.

I spent $150 on steel, about $80 on wood, $25 on welding rods and little on wire to add the 4'. If I had added onto the front and added a new tongue that price would have been higher. I expect that the gooseneck hitch for your truck or the one for the trailer would cost as much as my entire project.
 
   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck
  • Thread Starter
#7  
My trailer is made with 4" channel with 3' channel cross pieces space at 20" centers. To weak you think?
 
   / Converting 16ft tandem to gooseneck #8  
How many pieces of 4" channel run the length of the trailer?

I think you may be better off selling this trailer and buying a gooseneck. I see gooseneck trailers on craigs list all the time.
 
 
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