2 5/16" ball with 3/4 shank?

[Diamondpilot]

Why not just put a hitch on the top of your loader bucket? I use mine all the time. I can move up to 10,000# with it but I can not lift anything heavier like my 15,600# boat.

Here is a picture of it with my boom pole in it. I welded it up adding a lifting hook to the top then drilled and bolted it to the loader bucket.


Chris

 

[medicshawn]

If all you're doing is repositioning the trailer, why not just use a smaller ball with a smaller shank. Why not just use a 2 or 1 7/8 ball?

 

[SPYDERLK]

If all you're doing is repositioning the trailer, why not just use a smaller ball with a smaller shank. Why not just use a 2 or 1 7/8 ball?

Cuz youre relying on tongue weight to keep it on. Guess the safety chain would stop it if it lifted off for some reason.
larry

 

[lucky llama]

I had a simialr problem to yours. My drive way curves and goes down hill to my garage. If I pulled straight in with my F250 backing up the drive was a nightmare. I have a B7800 and a 26' cargo trailer. What I did was drill out the draw bar hole to 1". I have pulled the trailer all over the yard with no problems. Also have pulled my dump trailer on reasonable level ground with no problems. This set up has been working for the past 6 years.

 

[radioman]

Let me share what I have learned with my BX. I have a 22ft camper and 16 ft trailer i moved with my BX. At first, I used a 2 inch ball on a drawbar from TSC to put in 3pt and closed the latch on trailer. IT works, but with the camper if the BX front end is up higher then the back wheel due to the grade on hill, the trailer falls out of the 2 inch ball because the drawbar turned and swivels.
I swapped it out with a correct 2 5/16 sized ball. I had to drill into the drawbar using the silver and deming bit from HF to make it fit. It works, no longer falls off. There is a but! in here. When turning, I hated the way the drawbar is at a angle when it swivels esp. when backing up. I ended up welding a bar in a upright position to hook on top link. Now the hitch is perfectly aligned with ground grade in up or down position . It works perfect like it supposed to.
Just keep in mind with your empty enclosed trailer, its a great idea to have the FEL on for front weight, otherwise you can do a small wheelie if stop suddenly, or on a hill.
Some say the BX is too small, I say its fine as long you have right equipment and counterweight. You can use the 2 inch ball for 2 5/16 trailer as long you can stop the bar from turning. They have drawbar stablizer, but TSC ones dont fit on the BX due to turnbuckles in the way. I also personally dislike the drawbar stablizers due to fact that when you raise the 3 pt, the drawbar is facing towards the operator, and when lowered to the ground it faces towards ground.

Last week, I took a old 1 1/4 hitch I saved from long gone caravan and cut the ends off so its 27"wide. I bought a cat1 drawpin, and toplink pin from TSC for under 8 bucks. The nuts on the cat 1 pins fits perfect inside the square tube so I just welded it in place and filled in the gaps with welding. welded a tube for toplink and it works perfect for moving trailers.

To sum it up- whatever you get or build, you need to stop the drawbar from turning and that is with the toplink for safe moving of the trailer.

Sorry about long post- but wanted to sum it up from my experience.

 

[KeithInSpace]

Regardless of what you do about the ball be careful about moving a trailer that outweighs the tractor by 2:1.

I agree to be careful, but I certainly wouldn't say it isn't possible...I move my travel trailer which can weigh 4,500# loaded with my BX tractor all the time. Granted it feels better with a load of soil in the FEL bucket, but it has worked splendidly on both that trailer and my huge (to me) dovetail utility trailer which weighs 2,000# (about the same as the tractor) before I put anything in it...

 

[asylum575]

Thanks for all the replies guys.
\I just got home with the trailer and I left it in the driveway.

I have to run out and get some chocks for it, before I run out to work.

My 1500HD Chevy pulled it fine and it looks to be in very, very good shape. It will may make a nice home for the BX and stuff.

I will post pictures later, I have a couple on my phone.

I will have to think this one out a bit. The trailer probably weighs about 3200 lbs as that is what's on the title. Felt like it on the truck.

The BX without the BH is about 1800-2000lbs, so that's not a good ratio. I'm puckering up just thinking about it. The area is relatively flat and about a 50-75 diameter circle of where it will be moved. Not a big area, but I'm afraid if I start rolling down the driveway, I could have a problem. Safety first.

Maybe, I'll go out and buy a new 4x4 truck. Problem solved.

 

[aczlan]

Put a 7 pin (or whatever type you have) trailer plug on the back of your tractor, hook up the ground pin to the tractor ground and the brake pin to a switch (or a relay). Then you can have an extra 4 wheels worth of braking power whenever you need it for under $30 in parts.

Aaron Z

 

[asylum575]

Put a 7 pin (or whatever type you have) trailer plug on the back of your tractor, hook up the ground pin to the tractor ground and the brake pin to a switch (or a relay). Then you can have an extra 4 wheels worth of braking power whenever you need it for under $30 in parts.

Aaron Z

Wow,
What a geat idea, I would not have thought of that.

You just cut the pucker factor in half.

 

[asylum575]

Here are some Pix. Trailer is a 1991 8 x 20. Actually 21` outside.
Pulled very well with the 6.0 chevy. I was thinking of getting a new truck with the 5.3 to save on gas, but I'm not sure how it would pull this.