Wheel Spacers for Trailer?? Opinions?

[CHDinCT]

Well, a few months back I bought a used 14' tandem axle landscape type trailer to haul my BX and to pickup the occasional load of mulch, topsoil, etc. The trailer was in decent shape but the first thing I did was re-wire it since it had some bad connections and the existing wiring was pretty worn.

Next up was doing something about the rust-through on the wheel well skirts. The original thin gauge sheet metal had numerous rust perforations. So, given I don't work well with metal (don't weld), I decided to cut some 1/2" PT plywood for new skirts. About half way through doing the first side it dawned on me I might not have enough clearance between the tire and the plywood skirt. After sanding, priming and doing some touch up painting, I fit the wood skirt and re-mounted the wheels. Darn if one rubs and the other doesn't. The rear wheel with the drum brake (brakes not hooked up), clears while the front wheel doesn't.

I called around to see if anyone carries 1/4" PT plywood, but no go. So, I started looking into wheel spacers and did find plenty to choose from, but no one gives much for spec's other than the number of lugs. Here's an example though you can find them for sale elsewhere.

Amazon.com: Mr. Lugnut Automotive Wheel Spacers

The hubs are 5 lug with 2.75" spacing center to center for adjacent lugs. I probably only need 5-10mm of extra space. Any thoughts on which of these would work, or do you think I'm playing with fire adding thin spacers to gain clearance? How about some heavy gauge washers?

Pic's of trailer:

 

[Willl]

I don't see anything wrong with using those spacers.

Got a real problem with the way those blocks are stacked though.

 

[Diamondpilot]

My experience with spacers is bearing wear. I would not use them but to each his own.

What I would do is chalk it up to experience and either put brakes on the other axle, really not needed but would solve the spacing issue, or have some sheet metal skirts made then welded in. They serve no structural duty so you could have about anyone with a welder tack them in. I would go to a heating and air guy with temp-lets to have the metal ones made then find a local mom and pop muffler shop and have them welded in. I would do it for free if you lived near.

I could get the skirts made for about $40 around here and another $20 to weld in if all fitted right and things were prepared.

Nice truck by the way.

Chris

 

[CHDinCT]

Thanks DP/Chris on the truck. It's new a few months ago. Had a 1999 Tacoma that Toyota bought back from me due to the frame rust issues. Basically, they make you an offer you can't refuse even though the truck ran fine and I wasn't really looking to replace it. Decided to go full size .5 ton this time around.

Anyway, one vote for and one against spacers. I pulled the trigger last night and ordered a set of 5/16" spacers. One thing that confused me was how you measure the lug pattern for a 5 lug hub. Apparently, you measure from center to center on lug 1 and 3, or basically not CTC on adjacent lugs. Once I figured that out, I "think" I ordered a set that should fit. Will be here today, so I should know soon.

I'm not too nervous about mounting these 5/16" spacers since I don't use the trailer too often. Guess I'll take the chance on the added bearing wear.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Here is how you measure.

wheel bolt patterns

Chris

 

[CHDinCT]

Yeah, I found a similar how to via google. Received the spacers from UPS late morning. The good news is it fits. The bad news is that it looks like I need slightly longer lugs. One thing leads to another. ! Guess I'll have to figure out how to remove the old ones and replace them with longer ones. Haven't even looked into that yet. Thanks for your help.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Studs can be removed with a sledge hammer. Then to put the new ones in I like to use a stack of washers and the stud and a lug nut to pull it tight in place. You just simply slide the new stud in from the rear, slide 6 washers or so over the stud, and then use a nut and a impact wrench to pull it tight. Just make sure you check them at 10 miles, 100 miles, then 1000 miles.

Chris

 

[Willl]

If you use the washers to pull them in, flip the nut over so your not using the 'cone' side against the washers.

 

[J_J]

Did you consider different rims. Some rims have different off sets. One of the wheels on my trailer is off set more that the others.

Add a nut to the stud, and smack it with a 2 lb hammer

 

[Renze]

how do your wheels center ? are they hub centered or bolt centered ?
If they are hub centered, the hub should extend as far as the spacer is thick... otherwise they will run loose quite easy...

What are you getting yourself into ? buying spacers, buying longer wheelnuts, taking the drums off to change the lugs, and perhaps taking them off again to change wheel bearings...
It shouldnt be so hard to get a local shop, or a friend perhaps, help you get some steel mudguards ?