Rotten Trailer Boards
- Thread starter OkieG
- Start date
Steven
Gold Member
The decking is 3 years old and still looks like new. this pt lumber should last a long time. My father inlaw just replaced the deck boards on one of his trailers after eight years (they were not pressure treated) and his trailers are out on job sites all year round. He figures he will be replacing the trailer before these boards need to be replaced. look how long home decks made out of pt. last if taken care of. And I do not put water seal on the bottom only the top this keeps the wood from soaking up the water, spilled oils, and diesel fuel it just beads up and drips or drains off. I would post a picture but do not have a digital camera yet. but this is what it looks like
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Kodiak
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George:
Actually my trailer currently has 2x10s, and there in is its current weakness, as you can put the weight of an entire of one front tire in one spot. Actually upon rethinking this project, 2x8s due sound a little stronger. And would be easier to rip the last one fit my 83" bed width. However by adding the 18" strips of expanded metal as I mentioned earlier, they will help in distributing the weight over several planks also.
Actually my trailer currently has 2x10s, and there in is its current weakness, as you can put the weight of an entire of one front tire in one spot. Actually upon rethinking this project, 2x8s due sound a little stronger. And would be easier to rip the last one fit my 83" bed width. However by adding the 18" strips of expanded metal as I mentioned earlier, they will help in distributing the weight over several planks also.
Gary_in_Indiana
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Okie,
Lemme see if I have this right. I'm going to assume you know the steel is the same and that you're asking what to do between getting a new wood floor that'll last you four years for $260 or spending an extra $32 for steel?
Why would you even type that post when you could be on the phone ordering your steel and making an appointment to have it installed on your trailer by a professional trailer shop?
Wouldn't you have gladly paid and extra $32 for your trailer if it had a steel floor when you bought it? This is your chance to do it now. Not to sound like a Nike commercial, but Just Do It!
Lemme see if I have this right. I'm going to assume you know the steel is the same and that you're asking what to do between getting a new wood floor that'll last you four years for $260 or spending an extra $32 for steel?
Why would you even type that post when you could be on the phone ordering your steel and making an appointment to have it installed on your trailer by a professional trailer shop?
Wouldn't you have gladly paid and extra $32 for your trailer if it had a steel floor when you bought it? This is your chance to do it now. Not to sound like a Nike commercial, but Just Do It!
s1120
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I got to agree with Gary. Wood has a lot of advantages, but for the money I would get steel. You could weld all kinds of stuff to it,[attachment hooks etc] resale would be better if you ever wanted to trade up, and will Last forever in trailer use,[unless you use it to haul fishing nets, or something from salt water/w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif] As for slipping, you could weld that expanded steel on to the deck. I say go for it.
Gary,
You're right, you're right, you're right! It's just that I've never had a steel bed and don't know anyone who has. I don't want to miss a decision changing advantage or drawback that maybe should be obvious to me, but perhaps isn't. That is why I started this thread.....because I have NO experience with PT vs. steel, and I wanted to take advantage of YOUR (TBNers) experience.
I guess my major concern with steel is rust. Corrosion control can be an on-going chore, especially in places not easily seen, like under the trailer bed. The trailer store suggests a few cans of undercoating spray so maybe that's a non-issue (I hope), but I don't know.
My minor concern is weight of the bed. The steel weighs in at +380 lbs. over a lumber bed. In any case, with two 3500 lb. rated axles and my relatively small tractor (about 2000 lbs. w/o implements), I think I'll be OK.
Those steel bed trailers sure look nice when I drive by the trailer lot. Paul makes a good point about resale value and being able to weld to the bed (though I'm not sure what I would weld to the trailer bed).
Gary, I appreciate your input. Thanks for the post.
OkieG
You're right, you're right, you're right! It's just that I've never had a steel bed and don't know anyone who has. I don't want to miss a decision changing advantage or drawback that maybe should be obvious to me, but perhaps isn't. That is why I started this thread.....because I have NO experience with PT vs. steel, and I wanted to take advantage of YOUR (TBNers) experience.
I guess my major concern with steel is rust. Corrosion control can be an on-going chore, especially in places not easily seen, like under the trailer bed. The trailer store suggests a few cans of undercoating spray so maybe that's a non-issue (I hope), but I don't know.
My minor concern is weight of the bed. The steel weighs in at +380 lbs. over a lumber bed. In any case, with two 3500 lb. rated axles and my relatively small tractor (about 2000 lbs. w/o implements), I think I'll be OK.
Those steel bed trailers sure look nice when I drive by the trailer lot. Paul makes a good point about resale value and being able to weld to the bed (though I'm not sure what I would weld to the trailer bed).
Gary, I appreciate your input. Thanks for the post.
OkieG
<font color=blue>I guess my major concern with steel is rust. Corrosion control can be an on-going chore, especially in places not easily seen, like under the trailer bed. </font color=blue>
This isn't a big deal like some folks would have you think. A good coat of paint in the beginning and ***MAYBE*** several years down the road. Your trailer already has a lot of steel after all (frame, axle, tongue, etc.) and they've stayed solid after all, right? Just look at good 'ol Fords & Chevys - their beds are a LOT thinner than what you'd have on your trailer and they last a LONG time with tons (or half-tons /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif) of use.
As for 380 lbs. of extra weight, I don't understand why that's a concern. (what, about 5% of your 7K capacity?) You are way under your working limits of 7K for your trailer, and I doubt you're getting close to your tow vehicle's limit. (just think of it like putting 2 buddies in the cab, after all, that's about the weight you are talking about adding.)
This isn't a big deal like some folks would have you think. A good coat of paint in the beginning and ***MAYBE*** several years down the road. Your trailer already has a lot of steel after all (frame, axle, tongue, etc.) and they've stayed solid after all, right? Just look at good 'ol Fords & Chevys - their beds are a LOT thinner than what you'd have on your trailer and they last a LONG time with tons (or half-tons /w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif) of use.
As for 380 lbs. of extra weight, I don't understand why that's a concern. (what, about 5% of your 7K capacity?) You are way under your working limits of 7K for your trailer, and I doubt you're getting close to your tow vehicle's limit. (just think of it like putting 2 buddies in the cab, after all, that's about the weight you are talking about adding.)
Gary_in_Indiana
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<font color=blue>"though I'm not sure what I would weld to the trailer bed"</font color=blue>
While there are any number of things from banjo plates to hooks, I'd suggest starting with . I added <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/6-182913-MVC-006X.JPG>six D rings to the five that were already in my trailer floor. Anyone who has a trailer and uses it to move things will tell you there's no such thing as "too many" attachment points. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
While there are any number of things from banjo plates to hooks, I'd suggest starting with . I added <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/forumfiles/6-182913-MVC-006X.JPG>six D rings to the five that were already in my trailer floor. Anyone who has a trailer and uses it to move things will tell you there's no such thing as "too many" attachment points. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif Good luck with whatever you decide. I hope this helps. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
RedDog
Platinum Member
OkieG,
I have had both steel and wood gooseneck trailers. The steel trailer was 15' flat with a 5' dovetail,, tri-axle and weighed about 5,000lbs. The wood trailer is 34' flat with no dovetail, dual tandems, about 7,000lbs.
The steel surface is more slippery than the wood, especially when wet.
I replaced the wood floor, (all 34' of it, and it is 8' wide) with "rough cut" lumber from a local mill. My total cost including bolts to secure it down was about $250. I cut them up and put in myself.
You can also add D-rings or other hooks to wood trailers too!
Depending on where your braces are at and how thick the steel material is,, steel will "bow".
Both surfaces have there pros and cons. I sold my steel trailer and kept the wooden one,, no regrets.
RedDog
I have had both steel and wood gooseneck trailers. The steel trailer was 15' flat with a 5' dovetail,, tri-axle and weighed about 5,000lbs. The wood trailer is 34' flat with no dovetail, dual tandems, about 7,000lbs.
The steel surface is more slippery than the wood, especially when wet.
I replaced the wood floor, (all 34' of it, and it is 8' wide) with "rough cut" lumber from a local mill. My total cost including bolts to secure it down was about $250. I cut them up and put in myself.
You can also add D-rings or other hooks to wood trailers too!
Depending on where your braces are at and how thick the steel material is,, steel will "bow".
Both surfaces have there pros and cons. I sold my steel trailer and kept the wooden one,, no regrets.
RedDog