Gooseneck Hitch Offset or Extender-Use One?

[jayste]

For the moment I don't need one. I have in the past considered getting a short bed truck the next time I buy. I've seen these extenders around and have wondered if any of you guys use them and if so what do you think. Also, if you have a short bed and don't use one how is that working?

[slowzuki]

The type that goes in the hitch is preferred for less stress on trailer, the type than goes on the trailer is better for keeping the weight in front of the axle of the truck. If you have short box and a deck on the goose, you don't have a choice. You will bust out your window if you need to turn tight. People with a standard goose have less trouble.

[tessiers]

I saw somewhere they have a hitch now designed to move backwards when you turn, supposedly all automatic, never seen one but I will look into it next truck I buy.

[Diamondpilot]

I saw somewhere they have a hitch now designed to move backwards when you turn, supposedly all automatic, never seen one but I will look into it next truck I buy.

They are called sliders. Nothing automatic about them. You get out and flip a lever then using your brake controller you activate the trailer brakes and ease forward and it will slide and lock in about 2' back. Once you are done maneuvering you get back out, flip the lever, activate the trailer brakes and back the truck up till it re-engages in its normal position.

Chris

[PoorMansCat]

I always thought I would need an extender for my SWB when pulling our stock trailer. To be honest, it really hasn't been an issue. There have been times that I have needed to really crank the trailer around, but knock on wood, its never come close to the cab..

[Reg]

I think they're a crock.
The ones that attach to the trailer coupler tube essentially move the trailer BACK relative to the truck, but when turned 90 degrees they move the trailer to the SIDE of the truck, i.e. the truck cab is just as close to the front corner of the trailer.

The ones that relocate the ball put the load behind the rear axle - just a BAD way to go, though they might save you a truck/trailer kiss.

BTW, it isn't the bed length that matters, it is cab to axle distance.
On US built "full size" pick-ups this is a standard 58 inches.
To get to 90 degrees you need the ball more than 1/2 your trailer's nose width from the cab.
A 102 wide trailer is only 51 inches from the side to the middle IF it is the full 102 at the nose, very few are.
Most taper to about 5ft., i.e. 30 inches from side to center.

Y'know, spin turns REALLY squirm the trailer tires and there is almost never a "need" to get into situations where the only maneuver available is a spin.

[MikePA]

For the moment I don't need one. I have in the past considered getting a short bed truck the next time I buy. I've seen these extenders around and have wondered if any of you guys use them and if so what do you think. Also, if you have a short bed and don't use one how is that working?

Our 1991 Chevy had an extended cab and the short bed. We got a tapered nose on the stock trailer and never had any issues, except for the time my wife pulled out from under the trailer without lowering the tailgate, wondered why she was having trouble, gave it more gas and ripped one side of the tailgate off the truck and dragged the tailgate behind her until it dawned on her what was going on.

We no longer have the truck or the trailer. Upgraded to a truck with and 8 foot bed and a BP 2 horse trailer.

[Renze]

I saw somewhere they have a hitch now designed to move backwards when you turn, supposedly all automatic, never seen one but I will look into it next truck I buy.

We dont get that kind of constructions in Europe because we only have 5th wheels on dedicated trucks like a Merc Sprinter, without a bed. However i think i have seen one once, with a double hinge: the horizontal pin (weight transfer fulcrum) was in front of the truck rear axle, but the vertical pin (allowing the horizontal oscillation, or steering movement) was a foot or two to the back.
Dont know how solid these are, because the lateral movement at the first hitch point (at the truck) must be real tight or it will bounce and swerve you all over the place.

extending the hitch part on the gooseneck would be my preferred choice, but only when tightened with a good set of bolts, or welded solidly to the trailer so there isnt any play in the connection.

[Double6]

Quote:
Originally Posted by tessiers
I saw somewhere they have a hitch now designed to move backwards when you turn, supposedly all automatic, never seen one but I will look into it next truck I buy.


There is a company out there that makes a 5th wheel slider hitch for short bed pickup trucks that moves back automatically when turning without having to stop 1st and move any levers.
Check out this company:

PullRite has a SAFER, STRONGER, BETTER designed hitch for you


D6

[Topkicker]

I would stick with a long bed truck. Had the slider rails on a shortbox 3/4 ton crew cab. I hated it. You leave the hitch in the foward position while in normal tow. It keeps the pin weight over the axle where it belongs. When tight turns are involved, you move it to the rear position to keep the trailer or 5th wheel camper from making contact with your cab corners. You pull a lever in the bed to unlock the hitch from the sliders. Next, manually hold the trailer brake controller to keep the trailer tires from rolling. Then put the truck in drive to move the truck foward which forces the hitch to "slide" back and lock in the rear position. It's not smooth either. It takes a good bit of gas pedal to put that weight in motion. It feels like a hard rearend collision when it moves back and stops. I tried pulling on a short road trip with the hitch in the rear position. It was a very bouncy ride and handled abnormal. The pin weight SHOULD be directly over the rear axle. I would not want any type of offset hitch that moves the weight behind the axle. I would recomend a flatbed with a B&W hitch system. I went from the shortbed to a Monroe flatbed with the flip over ball and the Companion drop in 5th wheel plate. You can go from gooseneck ball to 5th plate by simply pulling a lever above the rear wheel and dropping in which ever one was needed. Best towing setup I've ever owned. B&W Custom Truck Beds, Inc.