Gooseneck hitch on a flatbed dump body

[davygp38]

I am shopping for a new to me Diesel dually. I run a gatormade 22.5k goosneck trailer. I would love to have a dump body, that has a goosneck hitch built in. Has anyone on here seen one, or know where to get one?

 

[jgrreed]

I am shopping for a new to me Diesel dually. I run a gatormade 22.5k goosneck trailer. I would love to have a dump body, that has a goosneck hitch built in. Has anyone on here seen one, or know where to get one?

I haven't seen it, but I wonder if a B&W turnover ball might be what you need to leave your dump bed clear when you're not using it?? It'd be tough to keep the slot clean after having a load of dirt in it, you'd just have to wash or blow it out.

B&W Custom Truck Beds, Inc.

-Jer.

 

[56FordGuy]

I've been pondering this exact same thing lately, I want my flatbed to dump but I don't want to lose the use of the gooseneck hitch.

The problem with a bed mounted hitch in my eyes it it puts the entire strain of towing on the hinge pins and hold down assembly. The problem with a frame mounted hitch is that it probably won't clear a common scissor type dump mechanism without moving the mechanism pretty far forward and sacrificing dump angle.

The best idea I have so far is to use a truck frame mounted gooseneck hitch, and use two hydraulic cylinders mounted outside the truck frame to lift the bed, similar to the way a rollback truck works. The problem there may be frame length. My truck has a 9' bed, and I don't believe I will be able to run a crossmember under the frame to mount the cylinders on due to driveshaft clearance, and still have the cylinders mount far enough forward on the bed to have good lifting leverage. There might be a may to turn the cylinders around, and mount the body to the rear side of the truck frame and the ram to the front of the bed, but I haven't done the geometry to see where everything would need to line up. It seems to me that having the body of the cylinder mounted in front of where the ram attaches to the bed would put less strain on everything, though.

I don't have an exact answer to your question, but this is as far as I've gotten with the same idea. It's not a pressing project for me, so I haven't really worked on it too much. You may check with some flatbed dealers in your area, a solution to this problem may already exist.

 

[davygp38]

I've been pondering this exact same thing lately, I want my flatbed to dump but I don't want to lose the use of the gooseneck hitch.

The problem with a bed mounted hitch in my eyes it it puts the entire strain of towing on the hinge pins and hold down assembly. The problem with a frame mounted hitch is that it probably won't clear a common scissor type dump mechanism without moving the mechanism pretty far forward and sacrificing dump angle.

The best idea I have so far is to use a truck frame mounted gooseneck hitch, and use two hydraulic cylinders mounted outside the truck frame to lift the bed, similar to the way a rollback truck works. The problem there may be frame length. My truck has a 9' bed, and I don't believe I will be able to run a crossmember under the frame to mount the cylinders on due to driveshaft clearance, and still have the cylinders mount far enough forward on the bed to have good lifting leverage. There might be a may to turn the cylinders around, and mount the body to the rear side of the truck frame and the ram to the front of the bed, but I haven't done the geometry to see where everything would need to line up. It seems to me that having the body of the cylinder mounted in front of where the ram attaches to the bed would put less strain on everything, though.

I don't have an exact answer to your question, but this is as far as I've gotten with the same idea. It's not a pressing project for me, so I haven't really worked on it too much. You may check with some flatbed dealers in your area, a solution to this problem may already exist.

It is the strain on those hinges that makes me think it is a big problem. not to mention you would have to have a very strong locking system to keep the bed secure.

 

[Soundguy]

I haven't seen it, but I wonder if a B&W turnover ball might be what you need to leave your dump bed clear when you're not using it?? It'd be tough to keep the slot clean after having a load of dirt in it, you'd just have to wash or blow it out.

B&W Custom Truck Beds, Inc.

-Jer.

what about a dummy plate to install with a lil finger grab loop on it to remove, and keep the ball/plate in t he cab?

soundguy

 

[Diamondpilot]

You would have to have a pretty short side on the dump bed. I would say 24" max but more like 18" with the high ride height of the truck.

In reality a GN is not needed. Dumps have the rear axle so far back you can put 4 tons of tongue weight on them with a big 24,000# bumper pull trailer and still not have a issue.

We move Dozers and Backhoes around here with bumper pull trailers all the time with no issues.

Chris

 

[56FordGuy]

You would have to have a pretty short side on the dump bed. I would say 24" max but more like 18" with the high ride height of the truck.

In reality a GN is not needed. Dumps have the rear axle so far back you can put 4 tons of tongue weight on them with a big 24,000# bumper pull trailer and still not have a issue.

We move Dozers and Backhoes around here with bumper pull trailers all the time with no issues.

Chris

I think the original poster was talking about a cab and chassis pickup with a dump body.

 

[ToaDisco]

I have personally seen them, so I know it can be done(09 550 cab/chassis with dumping flatbed). I don't have any pictures of how they mounted it though. Next time I'm up there I'll have to remember to get some pictures.

Guess I'm not much help:laughing:

 

[jgrreed]

I'm just throwing this out there, but is there a way to mount a B&W to the frame of the truck, and punch a hole through the floor of the dump bed that will allow the ball to show through when the box is down and the ball is in?? You could make a cover for the hole that would prevent dirt from falling through. That way, the weight of the trailer is on the frame, and you still have your dumper.....

I'm wondering if the B&W might still work if the scissor lift is removed, the B&W frame installed, and the scissor put back on top of it, then the box??

-Jer.

 

[QRTRHRS]

It is the strain on those hinges that makes me think it is a big problem. not to mention you would have to have a very strong locking system to keep the bed secure.

No strain if you set it up correctly. Eby from Blue Ball, PA can set you up if you want to spring for aluminum by the way.

As already alluded to, you need hydraulics that will not interfere with the ball setup. Dual side mount cylinders as already mentioned will work if engineered correctly. Another method is a "doghouse" style hydraulic set up. Typically found on larger dump boxes, you can find them on smaller units if you look around. With the doghouse style, the ram is mounted vertically in the front center to the dump frame. Housed in a steel box, the upper end is pinned to towards the top of the box. They are strong and fast.

Your ball is mounted to the frame same as say a pickup and accessed through a hinged trap door.

With the proper geometry, ie: minimal rear overhang, I see balls mounted to the rear of a dump bed. Never saw one close up so I don't know if the setup is welded to the frame or the bed. The application is usually something like a two ton truck or so where you have a lot more heft and weight up front from say a CAT C-7, larger heavier transmission, etc.