Trailer Brakes

[Deere Dude]

I have a 37' 15000# fifth wheel camper with electric brakes. Am I suppose to be able to lock them up when I step on the truck brakes hard?

I do know that if the emergency cable gets pulled out accidentally it stops on a dime, so I know the trailer will lock up, but I never was able to lock them up much less have the trailer brakes slow the truck down to where I would feel comfortable in an emergency situation.

I adjusted the controller in the GMC Dually to where the camper will slow the truck down a little bit, but it never seems like it is holding me back much.
I guess I'm not sure what is normal or if i have more adjusting to do.

 

[tcartwri]

You should be able to lock them up by sliding the override to full gain.

 

[George2615]

I agree. if your Ebrake cable will lock them up then your truck brake controller should too. There should be an adjustment on the controller to increase gain (voltage) to the trailer brake blue wire. You don't want to adjust the gain to lock them up, just enough to increase the voltage for more braking.

 

[Skyco]

From Dexter Axle-

"BRAKES - Why can't I lock and slide my electric brakes?
On an unloaded trailer, you may be able to lock up your brakes if your electric brake controller is supplying full amperage to the brakes. When loaded to capacity, you may not be able to lock your brakes as electric brakes are designed to slow the trailer at a controlled rate, and not designed to lock up the wheels on a fully loaded trailer. Our brakes are designed to meet all applicable safety standards. All of our brakes will perform better after numerous burnish stops to seat the brake linings to the drums."

I'd say you probably have some resistive loss in all the wiring to the truck brake controller and plug/socket. The emergency breakaway switch is a lot closer to the trailer battery that powers it.

 

[Diamondpilot]

If you can lock them up by pulling the E-Cable but not the controller you have a issue with either your controller or wiring.

When pulling the E-Cable its applying power from the trailers on board battery to the brakes. Full battery power. It shares the same wiring on the trailer as the normal wiring for the most part so that is more than likely not the issue.

When applying the brakes via the controller you are basically adjusting the voltage going to the brakes. Turning it all the way up basically gives you the voltage the trucks electrical system is putting out. What I would do is first check the voltage that is going to the controller itself. Then with the aid of a helper check the voltage with the controller turned all the way up at the plug at the rear of the truck. This should be within .5 to 1 volt lower than the measured voltage up front. If you have more voltage drop than that you have a controller or wiring issue. Take a look at the grounds for voltage drop.

Also take a look at the pigtail on the trailer. This could be where you are getting a loss also. Plus make sure your brakes are properly adjusted on the trailer.

If you can test it behind another truck with another controller that would also be helpful.

Chris

 

[jmanatee2]

I always thought the correct way to set the brake controller was to follow this:

While traveling at 20mph, Slide the override to full gain;

if the brakes locked then it was set to high,
if the brakes don't lock then they are set to low,

When set proper the brakes should kinda skid and roll at the same time

If you cant get them to just about lock, wouldn't that mean your control can supply enough current?

 

[tlbuser]

There are variables to be considered. Which brake controller are you using? How many brake axles on the trailer? Some controllers only work on 2 (or less) axles. When you pulled the cable on the emergency switch, was the truck disconnected? If not, you may have reversed the current on the controller and may have burned it out.

The 15-20 mph rule posted above is the one I've always thought was right.

 

[Diamondpilot]

For testing like others said go about 20 mph. Move the lever to the side and see if it will lock them up. If not bump it up till it does then set it just below that for use.

Also, are you running the factory sized tire? I once put bigger tires on a customers travel trailer and his brakes became less effective. Makes sense because you have more rolling mass and more leverage.

How long has it been since you adjusted the brakes?

Chris

 

[Deere Dude]

Thanks for the replies.
I am running the original stuff on a 2002 tandem axle fully loaded trailer. Same tires and original hook-up. It had a new Tekonsha controller when installed. At the time it was one of the better controllers that company had. Just looking at the directions here, it says good for 2,4,6,or 8 brakes. When I installed it I was sure I picked the right number, but I will double check it. The lights do come on and light up good on the controller the way they are supposed to.

I adjusted the brakes a few years ago and they seemed fine. 10,000 miles on the unit.

When I turned a corner pulling onto our side road, something hooked the e-wire, pulled it out and the trailer stopped everything on a dime. It seems the brakes work fine that way.

When on gravel I can slide the Manual Slide Knob over and lock them up. It would never lock up on concrete, but it will slow everything down a bit. Like Skyco mentioned, this camper is fully loaded and Dexter says it may not lock them up.

Like somebody suggested, check the voltage to the rear. I will do that along with checking the number of axle settings as soon as it gets warm out.
Thanks for the help.

 

[Diamondpilot]

For future reference Dexter suggest adjusting the brakes every 3,000 miles.

Chris