Chevrolet brake line corrosion

   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #1  

mfreund

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May 29, 2008
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Eastern Ia
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JD 4310 eHydro,
I have a 2002 Chevrolet 2500HD that I recently purchased. The brake lines are rusted and now are leaking. After a internet search I have found out this is common. I was wondering how others have fixed this problem. I have found a site for Classic Tube that sells a prebent set of stainless lines, but are pricey at $330. I have a mechanic friend that says to go buy a 25' roll of tube and make it yourself. What is the best/easiest way? I am sure I am not alone with this problem. Tell me what you have done and would you do it differently if you had to do it again?
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #2  
I have done 3 trucks in the past year. I have done all with rolls of tubing and Harbor freight tubing bender and flaring tool, except for the last one where I borrowed my buddies $500 plus MAC hydraulic flaring tool. The hydraulic tool made flares perfect flares in under 1 minute, it took alot more patience with the HF tool, but it did the job. Here is my take. If you want all the lines in the exact same spot run the exact same way get the pre bent line. I ran all the new lines in the inside of the frame rather than on top. Do all the front lines at the same time, it is easier than working around the already brittle lines and also easier rout them closer to stock positions. Almost 100% you will need to replace the rubber lines too so expect that. Be ready with heat to get every bleeder out and to replace them too, be ready for bleeders to snap off and to replace the calipers. 1 roll of tubing will not be enough for all the front lines since the 2 master lines go to the ABS pump and then back up to the caliper. Spray PB blaster or such on the ABS pump fittings several times days before and use the proper flare wrenches to take fittings off. Bleeding the brakes can be a SOB. I made a power bleeder out of an old master cap to push fluid through. I had trouble with 1 truck. Be prepared to get dirt and get rust in your eyes even with safety glasses on it is a cruddy job, but really can be done in a day from start to finish, especially with a little help.
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #3  
You can tell Clint S has been there and done that.
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #4  
Clint covered all the bases. Other thing I would try is the dealer also to compare the price.

I have done some also. It seems the trucks in the salt belt really take a beating on frames and such.

As said before, plan on spending two times the $330 estimate you have. If the lines are that rusty so will everything else. I have had to replace both the wheel cylinders and calipers but also a master cylinder due to breaking it trying to get on fitting out.

25' will be lucky to get to the rear with all the bends. I will think you will need two times that or more. I would not spend the extra money on a 10 year old truck for the stainless. It will fall apart due to the rust it has everywhere else before this next set of lines fails.

I would plan for the worst and price out calipers, cylinders, and a master cylinder. You would be a fool to do all this work and not replace the rubber hoses while you are down there, no matter how good they look.


Long story short, its going to take some time, patience, and money. Don't skimp here.

Chris
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #5  
I'd go for the stainless. :)

Brakes is brakes and it's kinda nice to stop when you really lay on the pedal.:D
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #6  
It was more than 25 feet for just the fronts and than includes the line from the master to the ABS motor for the rear. 2 rolls should do the whole truck. The rubber lines go bad and will often collapse when you let off the pedal and still look good from the outside. They are about $30 a piece as far as the stainless I got some from inline tube for my 72 Firebird and they fit like a glove and were a piece of cake to install. The only issue is that sometimes they can be a pain to get to seal as it is much harder material. The stainless line also has less bend and could be a pain for the long line from the passenger caliper to the ABS pump. The rolled steel lines are fine and provide all the stopping power you need as long as you make the double flare properly. The original steel lines lasted 9 years and you would be doing well for the truck to last another 9 after you install them. If the truck was low mile and in great shape it may be worth the stainless, but if it is already pretty rusty....
Inline tube has an excellent product and I would look there for any pre bent line
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #7  
I started looking into it for my Tundra but then Toyota replaced the frame and the brake lines for free. I did find out the brake lines came prebent but rolled up for easy shipping and were pretty cheap. I would only go with stainless if you are planning on keeping the truck for a very long time. You got almost 10 years out of the first set and chances are you'll have plenty of other rust issues 10 years from now.
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #8  
Oh great, another thing to start to watch for!

I'll probably just buy a couple coils and bend up more steel. If the lines are rusty, the truck will be toast when the lines go bad the 2nd time.
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #9  
I'm another in favor of a roll of steel line and a flaring tool. I replaced all the lines on my '97 Jeep a few years ago and it was a pretty easy job. It did take me a while to learn how to make a double flare correctly, but once I figured out the correct technique it was easy.

Also, don't feel like you need to run the brakes lines along the original path if it's too hard to get to.

If any of the original lines were coiled where they connected to a fixed/rigid part of the system, make sure you make the coils as well. The coils flex and keep the line from cracking.

Vic
 
   / Chevrolet brake line corrosion #10  
Another option it to buy brake lines that are roughly the correct length that are already flared and have the fittings on them. They usually come in a bunch of different lengths so you can get something close. I've never done an entire vehicle. I doubt all the lines are shot, just some of them.
 
 
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