Trailer Question?

[micromike]

I have a neighor who has a dual axel trailer for sale. It is commercially built, (I think...3" channel frame) , pressure treated 2x6 floor. It is 16' long and either 6' or 6'6" wide. It was built in 1998 and has 15" tires, five lug wheels and brakes on one axel. A really nice looking trailer in very good condition.

The information on the tag states it is only 5,000 lb gvw. The tag indicates it has two 2,500 lb axles. The trailer appears to be built to carry much more weight and looks at least as heavy duty as other car trailes I've seen. I do know the original buyer purchased the trailer for a one time use to move his belongings across country and probably chose the light duty axels rather than (at lease in my opinion) the much more practical 7,000 gvw axels, to save a few bucks.

Here is my question... If I want to increase the gvw to 7,000 can I simply add a leaf or two or... change the leaf springs? Or do I have to change the axels as well? If I have to change the axels, can I use the same brake drums and hubs as are on the trailer now? Tia for any input.

Mike

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Can't answer your question about the axles, because I don't know what goes into the rating of an axle, suspect that it involves spindle size, axle tube size, etc. as well as spring ratings. However, I can say that you also have to consider the tires. The maximum weight for each tire is embossed on the sidewall. Add them all up and that will give you the amount of weigtht that can be carried regardless of the axles. If you need to do work on the axles and get new tires, it might be better to give this trailer a pass and search for one that has the correct ratings.

Of course, depends on how much he wants for the trailer...

 

[Devin_Anderson]

I just want to say I am by no means an expert on this, but I have been trailer shopping for my new rig recently. Another thing to take into consideration is the actual frame strenth. Of course there really is not any way to do this, but you may want to compare other 7000lb trailers to the frame of this 5000lb trailer. I got alot of good info off of Big Tex trailers web site. They brake down the frame steel dimensions for all there trailers and have a pretty good web site for research in this area. Incedentaly, I ordered my trailer from Big Tex last Friday. I went with the 10PI. 10,000lb 18 feet trailer with pipe rail around the sides for hauling my new TC24D NH with FEL, BH, woods 60" finish mower and bush hog 48" box blade. I am estimating my tractor and all implements to weigh about 6,000lbs. I hope this info and web site help you out.

 

[Bird]

Mike, I agree with the other guys; adding a leaf to springs can be done, but you need to consider all the components. If you add spring leaves, can the tires handle the load? If you upgrade tires; for instance 4 ply to 6 ply, you need to run higher air pressure. Are the wheels designed for the higher pressure? It only has brakes on one axle, meant to stop the current weight rating? Should have brakes on both axles, and more weight means you might want bigger brakes as well. Depending on what axles it has, you may want heavier axles, bigger spindles, heavier duty wheel bearings, etc. I went through this little exercise with a fifth wheel travel trailer; eventually decided to replace everything from the frame to the ground (at least I knew the frame was strong enough in my case /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif).

 

[Egon]

As usual Bird says it all.

Buy the proper rated trailer. Might save you a lot of grief in the long run.

Egon

 

[micromike]

Thanks for the imput guys, especially the link to BigTex trailers. I did find a lot of helpful information at BigTex.

The informaion I have on the one I want to buy is it was manufactured by Pero Trailer Mfg. in McKinley TX. I tried calling them but got a "cannot connect" message.

The trailer frame is 5" channel. The frame appears to be manufactured to very similar specs as BigTex's 10,000 gvw trailer! It has a 16' long bed, is 83" wide. The brakes are 10" on one axle. I still can't find a rating on the axles but I 'm thinking they are 3,500 partly because I can't find any manufacturer even making a 2,500 axle. They are either 2,000, 3,500 or 5,200.

The 5,000 gvw rating on this trailer seems to have to do mostly with the coupler and the tires. The tires are 205-15 class B. The coupler is rated 5,000 with a 2" ball. The big tex trailer rated 7,000 gvw has a 3" angle frame and runs 205-15 class C tires. The big tex trailers have a 2" coupler rated at 7,000.

It looks to me that if I want to upgrade to 7,000 it would be a matter of a new coupler (less than $100) and class C tires. I know many 7,000 gvw rated trailers run brakes on only one axle but I may put them on the second axel. I have a tendency to "over build" like others here. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

And if I want to upgrade to 10,000 gvw which the frame seems capable of... A new coupler, new axles, tires, brakes and springs. (Not necessary but nice to have the option.)

My neighbor has only used the trailer twice in the five years he has owned it. Though he has plenty of friends who borrow it occasionally. The tires are in excellent condition and he only wants $800 for it. Looks like it's a done deal! Thanks again guys.

Mike

 

[bnixon]

micromike,

I'm not a trailer expert by any means. I do know that when you step over 7000lbs. (two 3500lb axles) that you step into a 6 lug configuration and at 11,000lbs an 8 lug hub and wheel.

As you stated earlier that coupler makes a huge difference. and I believe that most of the 10,000lb + trailers I have seen have a 2 5/16 ball.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( The coupler is rated 5,000 with a 2" ball. )</font>

I have seen 2" balls rated at both 5,000 and 6,000 pounds. I suspect the coupler manufacturer rated it at 5,000 for just that reason. Liability concerns, in other words.

SnowRidge