Trailer weight distribution

[LHS Inc]

You need a bigger trailer and to get your hitch situation sorted out. You are hauling for a commercial business and are expected to know what you're doing. No reason that you shouldn't be able to pull onto the trailer, set the implements down, chain up, and drive off. All this jacking around with unbolting the tail wheel and removing the bucket just to make the gear sort of fit onto the small deck is very unprofessional.

I see that the tractor is apparently nearly new. You'll get it figured out soon. The biggest infraction I see is not using a wdh, or even knowing what it is when it is probably required for your truck to tow anything more than a tiny trailer.

You mean to tell me I have a 3/4 ton HD with a tow capacity of 10,000 lbs and tongue weight of 1000 lbs and all I can haul is a "tiny trailer" without a WD hitch?

During my recent MD DOT saftey audit they said I'm in compliance because the truck is a 3/4 ton with HD rear and springs. They can bust you for towing with a 1/2 ton because its not heavy enough for what I'm doing.

Got the yearly DOT truck and trailer inspection and it was approved by the US DOT.

Both US and MD DOT know just what my traller is rated and tagged for ( 10,000 lbs ) and they know what the truck hitch is rated for (1000 lbs.)

There was no mention of needing a WD hitch. They are the ones I have to answer to and they like what they see.

I have yet to see a WD hitch on anything except a vehicle pulling a camper or boat in which the vehicle was undersized to tow.

I'm not saying I'm against having one. If I keep my trailer I'll probably get one now that I've learned more about them and if it will help the truck and trailer to ride safer and look better I'm all for it.

If I was to get a longer trailer that would balance the load would you all still suggest a WD hitch?

Yes the tractor is new, a 2010, so I'm just getting into hauling it around for jobs. Every implement except for the rotary cutter fit on the trailer with room to balance the load.

I agree with what you said in that its a pain to have to go all thru the fanaggling of getting the tractor to fit the trailer. Thats the way it will have to be until I decide whether to get a bigger trailer or not. Once a month isn't a big deal but it would be nice to just run it on chain it down and drive away whistleing as I cruise down the road.

Thanks for all the input.

 

[chasemech]

Read the Trailering manual that came with the truck. As stupid as it sounds in CT you would be over weight with out the WD Hitch.

 

[dstig1]

I think Highbeam was hyperbolizing a bit to make a point, but it relates to my earlier point...

...I didn't see that you caught my earlier point - what does the sticker on the receiver on the truck say? It is pretty common on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks for them to put an OEM hitch that is only rated for 500 lbs tongue in weight carrying setup (the typical type) and 5000 lbs load, and if that is the case, then you are over tongue weight, and over the rating of the hitch. My stock receiver on my 3/4 ton F250 has 2 sets of numbers: WC= 500 tongue, 5000 total trailer; WD = 1000 tongue, 10000 trailer. Big difference.

I don't see WD hitches on equipment trailers very often either, but if you have a relatively constant load, then they aren't bad to do. Changing implements on the 3 pt probably won't matter much if you are generally hauling the same tractor, but if you are hauling it heavy and then with light loads, it requires more effort. I leave the WD bars off mine if I am using the trailer for lighter things, for example, and just use it in the regular weight carrying mode.

The other option is to buy an aftermarket receiver to replace the OEM one that is rated high enough in WC mode. I debated this and ended up getting a WD setup for mine. It works fine and keeps me within the rated limits of the hitch. Make sure your drawbar and ball are rated high enough too. very common for those to be lighter than you may think. It will be stamped on them.

 

[joshuabardwell]

You mean to tell me I have a 3/4 ton HD with a tow capacity of 10,000 lbs and tongue weight of 1000 lbs and all I can haul is a "tiny trailer" without a WD hitch?

In another thread on TBN, I said the exact same thing you are saying now, and it turned out I was wrong. My 2005 Dodge Ram 2500, with factory hitch, is only rated to tow 3500 lbs GTW / 350 lbs TW without a WD system. If I put a WD system on, or if I go to a gooseneck or 5th wheel, then I can tow up to the truck's full capacity of somewhere north of 12k. I sputtered and stammered, but when I looked at the correct page of the owner's manual, there it was. I have since done some research on this topic, and it looks like many new trucks come with bumper hitches rated for around 500-1000 lbs tongue weight without a WD system. But the point is, you don't know unless you have checked. And many times, they will quote the higher number (requiring a WD system) so that their specs look good, and then put a little star after it and say, "When properly equipped." Guess what? Part of "properly equipped" often includes a WD system.

Part of the confusing issue is that my factory hitch does not have a weight rating placard on it, like an aftermarket hitch would, so I had to go to my owner's manual. If your hitch has a weight rating placard, go look at it. It will have four numbers: gross trailer weight (GTW) and tongue weight (TW), both with and without a WD system. You may be surprised at what you find. Or you may be happy and conclude that we are a bunch of worrywarts. But you don't know until you've checked, and if you are wrong (I was!) then you are towing out of spec and asking for trouble.

During my recent MD DOT saftey audit they said I'm in compliance because the truck is a 3/4 ton with HD rear and springs. They can bust you for towing with a 1/2 ton because its not heavy enough for what I'm doing.

Some people say, "Why do I need a WD system? I have beefed up rear suspension, air bags, whatever." The issue as it was explained to me is that it is not just about the truck's ride. It is about the way that the weight of the trailer is distributed across the bolts holding the hitch to the trucks' frame. I can't say more about that personally--I'm just repeating what was said to me.

There was no mention of needing a WD hitch. They are the ones I have to answer to and they like what they see.

Maybe you are one of the lucky ones who can tow 1000 lbs TW without a WD system. In which case, carry on! But I disagree with you that the DOT are the ones you have to answer to. You have to answer to yourself if you have an accident because you were towing out of spec.

I have yet to see a WD hitch on anything except a vehicle pulling a camper or boat in which the vehicle was undersized to tow.

Be careful. I think this is largely a cultural thing. RV'ers know about WD systems because they often tow close to their vehicle's capacity and because they need the anti-sway capability that often comes with a WD system. People towing utility trailers are often simply ignorant of the need for a WD system. And most of the time, they get away with it... until the one time the hitch breaks off the frame. I see all kinds of unsafe trailering practices when I'm out and about. Don't use what you see other people doing as an indication of what is good practice.

If I was to get a longer trailer that would balance the load would you all still suggest a WD hitch?

If the receiver hitch requires a WD system to achieve the necessary rated tongue weight, of course. But I'll say, I really like the way my truck rides with the WD system even if I didn't need it. You know that "dip" that occurs when you hit the brakes with a heavy trailer? The back of the truck dives and the front goes up, and it feels like the trailer is trying to climb up into your butt? Doesn't happen at all, or near as much anyway with a WD system. The vehicle and trailer move as a unit and it's just much more composed. I don't bother using the WD system when I'm below about 3500 lbs GTW, but when I'm towing heavy, I always put it on.

 

[joshuabardwell]

I leave the WD bars off mine if I am using the trailer for lighter things, for example, and just use it in the regular weight carrying mode.

I have an extra (non-WD) shank and ball that I use when towing light, because the WD head is so darn big and heavy it's a PITA to install.

 

[LHS Inc]

I think Highbeam was hyperbolizing a bit to make a point, but it relates to my earlier point...

...I didn't see that you caught my earlier point - what does the sticker on the receiver on the truck say? It is pretty common on 3/4 and 1 ton trucks for them to put an OEM hitch that is only rated for 500 lbs tongue in weight carrying setup (the typical type) and 5000 lbs load, and if that is the case, then you are over tongue weight, and over the rating of the hitch. My stock receiver on my 3/4 ton F250 has 2 sets of numbers: WC= 500 tongue, 5000 total trailer; WD = 1000 tongue, 10000 trailer. Big difference.

I don't see WD hitches on equipment trailers very often either, but if you have a relatively constant load, then they aren't bad to do. Changing implements on the 3 pt probably won't matter much if you are generally hauling the same tractor, but if you are hauling it heavy and then with light loads, it requires more effort. I leave the WD bars off mine if I am using the trailer for lighter things, for example, and just use it in the regular weight carrying mode.

The other option is to buy an aftermarket receiver to replace the OEM one that is rated high enough in WC mode. I debated this and ended up getting a WD setup for mine. It works fine and keeps me within the rated limits of the hitch. Make sure your drawbar and ball are rated high enough too. very common for those to be lighter than you may think. It will be stamped on them.

Checked again and on the bumper it clearly states and I assume its talking about hooking to the bumper: 500 lb tongue and 5000 lbs trailer.

On the receiver hitch it states 7500 trailer weight and 1000 lb tongue weight.

For what I'm hauling now the tractor and implement are 4500 lbs and the trailer weight itself 2350 lbs which puts me at 6850 so for arguements sake call it 7000 lbs. Thats 500 lbs under.

Don't anyone take this wrong but for the guy that will try to split hairs and say " Well that 500 lbs could be this or that or it might be thus and so" please don't. I'm just going off the numbers on the truck and the specs on the equipment. Thanks.

I will say and this will make some of you happy the truck states a weight distribution rating of 12500 lbs and a tongue rating of 1500. I was suprised to see that much difference.

Thats a huge boost and I can see why they would be worth having.

Getting back to the original issue of tongue weight I will try to determine if I'm overloaded or not. For me it was an appearence issue as I stated I hate to see a truck squatted down with a load. Mine wasn't that bad. I just like to see the truck level out nicely.

I didn't feel any loss of control when I was driving. When I braked I didn't feel the front end come up or it sag at the hitch point. Of course the truck was pulling a heavier load and I could feel that but as far as handling I couldn't tell the difference between that load and just a mower on there.

I appreciate all the feed back. Its been great getting all sorts of knowledge on the subject. When you don't know I sure don't mind asking.

 

[ahlkey]

An excellent response from Joshua. They can be a pain to use but they work really well with heavy loads. With my 2002 F250 the hitch is rated for weight carrying of 5,000 lbs and a tongue weight of only 500 lbs but with the WD 12,500 weight carrying and 1,250 lbs tongue. Having said that it doesn't necessary mean because the truck has a hitch rating of 12,500 you are ok carrying that much load. The rating will vary depending on the vehicle equipment so it is important to see the owners manual. For example, I have on the F250 a manual transmission V-10 with only the 3.73 axle and while is capable of pulling a lot of weight my trailering capacity is 10,300 lbs.

 

[Furu]

I use the WD anytime I am moving the trailer unless it is empty and I am feeling real lazy and won't be going further than 5 miles. The towing feel and the solid nature the WD gives the entire rig is such that I choose to hook up the WD for just about anything I do. Even empty my trailer has less bounce and is more solid than just ball hooked up. Towing at speeds above 40 even empty on the highway the trailer is just rock steady. BTW 10K trailer.

 

[LHS Inc]

I use the WD anytime I am moving the trailer unless it is empty and I am feeling real lazy and won't be going further than 5 miles. The towing feel and the solid nature the WD gives the entire rig is such that I choose to hook up the WD for just about anything I do. Even empty my trailer has less bounce and is more solid than just ball hooked up. Towing at speeds above 40 even empty on the highway the trailer is just rock steady. BTW 10K trailer.

They way you guys speak so highly of the WD hitches I'm going to have to really look into getting one.

Do you leave them on the trailer all the time or put on and take off as needed?

 

[s219]

Interesting reading about the various specs with/without WD hitches. My unibody SUV has a 5000#/500# tow/tongue limit using the factory hitch, and the owners manual specifically says that a WD hitch is not recommended (not sure why).

I know people tend to focus on the back end of the vehicle and raw capacity numbers, but as I understand it, the real benefit of a WD setup is that it puts the vehicle in the proper "pitch" orientation, which has the most benefit on the front wheels and overall stability and braking. It doesn't really augment the rear suspension as much as it transfers some load forward to the front suspension.