I recently went on the hunt for a trailer and learned a lot in the process. Here's a recap of what I learned from my search...
- How much does the cargo weigh? Add tractor, loader, mower,
ballast box, tire ballast, etc. Total up EVERYTHING that you might carry. Then add a few hundred pounds to cover yourself for chains, ratcheting tensioners, spare tire, etc.
- How long is your machine from tip to tail? Add 2 to 3 feet to this measurement at a minimum to allow for adjusting the position of the load. Getting the weight placed correctly on the trailer is KEY to safe hauling.
- What are your state's requirements for brakes? Personally, I would not consider buying a trailer without brakes on all axles. The minimal difference in cost is absolutely worth it.
- What is the towing capacity and tongue weight capacity of your tow vehicle? Will you need a weight distributing hitch in order to be under the tongue weight limits?
- Does any prospective trailer have D-Rings and / or stake pockets for securing cargo?
- Do you have the right hitch for your receiver to handle the GTWR (Gross Trailer Weight Rating) of the trailer? Drop-forged hitches and some of the Reese tri-ball hitches are the only ones rated to handle over 5,000 - 5,500 pounds GTWR and the corresponding 10% tongue weight.
- How much does the trailer itself weigh versus it's gross weight rating? The difference is the cargo capacity.
- What GTWR does the trailer carry from the manufacturer? MANY (most?) trailers that are 10k and up are rated for the dealer's lot at UNDER 10k GTWR. This is done for registration purposes to ensure that there is no need for CDL and such. If the trailer is actually built to handle more, you'll at least know that you'll never be over-loading according to its ability if you're staying under the legal load limit.
- How much does the trailer cost?
- Are you willing to buy used and take on the responsibility of some work on bearings and such before you start towing?
General comments:
- Yes, you need a brake controller. Depending on your vehicle, it may be quite easy to install (if your vehicle came from the factory with the Tow Package installed, it could be a five minute operation with no tools). Look into the controllers based on the kind of braking system you will have on the trailer(s). I have a Tekonsha P3 and it can handle electric or hydraulic over electric brakes and supports up to four axles worth of braking.
- Be mindful of what your cargo weight capacity needs to be and ensure that the GTWR of the trailer is big enough to support it after subtracting out the trailer weight. Remember that cargo weight on the trailer will need to include the machine, attachments, spare trailer tire, chains, tensioners, fuel, tire ballast, and anything else. If in doubt, go bigger. I was originally looking for a 7k trailer to haul my 2520 (which I estimated at about 4500 lbs with all attachments) and I ended up grabbing a 10k because cargo capacity on the 7k trailers was just too close for comfort with my rig.
- Make sure you understand the GTWR and Tongue Weight limits of your vehicle!!! You may need a Weight Distributing Hitch in order to tow the heavier weights. I am fortunate in that my Tundra will handle 1,000lbs of tongue weight and almost 10k of GTWR without the need for a WDH.
- I agree that "longer is better" is a common theme, and I'm glad I got an 18' instead of the 16' I was originally thinking I wanted / needed.