camper trailer frame to utility trailer project

[nsmithnd]

First things first... this will be used as a light-duty utility trailer (trips to the lumber yard and landfill, hauling the riding mower and transporting 3-pt utility tractor attachments, etc).

It's an old 1977 Palomino popup camper frame that was salvaged after it got caught in a storm (while set up) and flipped onto it's top, all but destroying it. Decided that the little 4x10 converted boat trailer (seen in the back-ground of one of the pics) needed a break, and I wanted to get some miles out of the brand new 8-ply tires. The camper shell was 10' long sitting on an 8' frame (9' with the bumper) and 6'-4" wide.

I cut the curved corners of the rear bumper off and welded up some tail-light boxes to square up the corners and am stealing 12" of the tongue to retain the 60/40 axle placement and end up with a 10' deck (there is still plenty of tongue to allow for a full-sized pickup bumper without hitting the bed of the trailer). To minimize the height of the wheel wells needed, I moved the axle to the bottom of the springs. The flat-top fenders are already fabricated and will be framed out with properly sized angle iron to get them to the final height.

Now for the questions... How much spring deflection can I expect when over-loading the trailer? The tires (as it sits now) are just below the top of the frame so my initial thought was to allow for approximately 3" of clearance between tire and fender which would leave 1-1/2 of fender exposed above 2x6 decking. Will 3" do the trick?

-Neil

 

[Dr Dave]

Install a spacer block on the bottom of frame rail, maintain the same travel you had before moving alxe. This will save your fenders if overloaded. What are you using for a deck?

Dave

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would sit weight on it now to see how much the springs flex.

Chris

 

[radioman]

I was thinking the same thing. try to find things that you know how much it weighs like a pile of cinder blocks? You can calc how much one block weighs and add enough to go to 3000lbs ( arent the tires 3500lbs rated?) and then measure the squat. I would also be jumping on one side to see how much more it can travel with weight on the trailer. that should give you an rough idea how high to make the fenders.

 

[nsmithnd]

Well... got things welded up and painted and wired. Ended up using blocks as suggested by Dr Dave (thanks) to prevent contact with the fenders if overloaded. After some research it looks like the axle is only rated at 2000 lbs so will definitely keep any loads to a minimum. Hopefully I didn't add too much metal. Haven't decided what to do at the back end yet so used angle to allow for ramps and brackets in case I go with a tail-gate. Should be pretty versatile anyway. By the time I get the deck on it and the edges capped with angle iron, I might not be able to haul much of anything !!

So now the question is, what to use for decking !!?? Been doing a lot of research and there seems to be too many options with pro's and con's for each. Weight is going to be my main concern at this point so pressure treated 2x is likely out the window. 5/4 deck boards will likely need more angle for the 3' span up front. Have 3/4" treated plywood on the old 4x8 trailer but that started separating and splintering on me after a couple of years, so not sure I want to go that route again. I'm leaning towards untreated 2x8 douglas fir sealed with a cedar stain and multiple coats of linseed oil. Suggestions anyone??

 

[Diamondpilot]

Nice work. I would go with 5/4 deck boars. That trailer is going to come in at 500# give or take with the wood deck on it so that should be plenty for its 1,500# useful load. Add in some angle where needed in that 3' span to cut it down to 18" or so an it will be plenty strong.

Chris

 

[radioman]

they have pressure treated 3/4 inch plywood. It should weigh less then the 2 bys or even the decking boards.

 

[jejeosborne]

I wouldn't be afraid to use 2x? Treated lumber. The weight difference would be negligible after the treated wood dries. I know some boards are very heavy out the door but they do dry out. If you do use treated, don't gap the boards because they will shrink a lot.

 

[nsmithnd]

Finally getting things wrapped up with the utility trailer project.
Haven't decided what to do for a tailgate and/or ramps.
Flip down tailgate with stand-alone ramps?
Maybe ramps that double as partial side panels?
Bi-fold tailgate?

Largest load will probably be a 1,000 lb Bolens large frame garden tractor.
Could either go fancy and weld up some angle iron ramps.
Or go boring with 2x10 angle iron edged boards.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Looks great. That will be a handy little trailer. Just watch the axle and tire loads.

Chris