Trailer chain configuration

[FF117]

I recently purchased my first tractor hauling trailer and would like some help getting the tie-downs set up correctly. I've attached some pics of one possibility. I was thinking about changing the front so that the chains cross and are attached to the hooks using two binders instead of one. I assume these hooks on the tractor are made for transport?

I'm a little concerned how the rear is set up with the chain running though the clevis on the drawbar. I can't figure out another good way to attach it unless I wrap the chain around the axle.

Suggestions appreciated. Thanks

Note: The pics don't show the ratchet straps for the loader. Also, I didn't tow like this, just asking before I make a mistake.

 

[DT86]

I don't see any need for two chain binders on the front. I've used a clevis on the draw bar before but if you don't like it you can run the chain through the rear wheels.

 

[bcp]

I prefer one of these configurations to keep the tractor centered after potholes or RR crossings. With a "sliding" attachment as shown it could move sideways from vibration.

Bruce

 

[joe t]

Looks ok to me. You are anchored to the front where it looks like it is supposed to be and to what looks like is a hitch in the rear. Side to side, tight but not over tight is the way to do it. To speed up hooking up you can leave one side loose and tighten the other side down and get the slack out of the other side without having to spend time racheting.

 

[George2615]

It appears from your pics you have 1 chain in front and one in rear. I never liked the one chain on each end tie down method due to the chance one might break allowing the other to go slack. Bruce's drawing shows two - 4 chain setups. Either one gives better holding strength.

 

[puckgrinder85]

Yea, as far as DOT is concerned that is illegal. You need 4 seperate chains. What I do is chain the rear and then pull the tractor forward to draw the chains tight, then install the front chains and rachet them down.

 

[radioman]

puckgrinder is right. however -- if you use a single chain for both fronts --- they need to be pulled on tractor from each side independently - not looped thru the holes. If you put binder on the tractor loops and one end of chain on trailer like you did, and repeat on the other side, you can use single chain without cutting it with extra wrapped around the binder to take up slack. You did the hook right on the trailer part .. put it thru thee stakes then up and on so if it falls off, the stake pocket prevent hook from whipping around which is what DOT wants to see. You should be tying down tractor in a X fashion whenever is possible. Also - just an fyi - if you get pulled over by a overezealous DOT cop - you might want a strap on your FEL too as dot rules states "all implements must be strapped down" and the FEL is an implement. I know, I know -- the FEL doesnt come off from tractor and its a sturdy piece on tractor, but what is an extra strap on the tractor? It just needs to be snug to satisfy DOT, not cranked down.

 

[FF117]

puckgrinder is right. however -- if you use a single chain for both fronts --- they need to be pulled on tractor from each side independently - not looped thru the holes. If you put binder on the tractor loops and one end of chain on trailer like you did, and repeat on the other side, you can use single chain without cutting it with extra wrapped around the binder to take up slack. You did the hook right on the trailer part .. put it thru thee stakes then up and on so if it falls off, the stake pocket prevent hook from whipping around which is what DOT wants to see. You should be tying down tractor in a X fashion whenever is possible. Also - just an fyi - if you get pulled over by a overezealous DOT cop - you might want a strap on your FEL too as dot rules states "all implements must be strapped down" and the FEL is an implement. I know, I know -- the FEL doesnt come off from tractor and its a sturdy piece on tractor, but what is an extra strap on the tractor? It just needs to be snug to satisfy DOT, not cranked down.

Thanks for the suggestions. If I understand correctly, you are saying that I should attach the binder directly to the hooks on the tractor, but I'm not sure the hook would fit inside the binder ring.

I will make and X front and back next time and post more pics. I suppose attaching to the wheels would be best in the back, but I'm going to need some more chain and another binder (4 total).

 

[crazyal]

The idea behind having two chains not one at the front or rear is that if the chain fails or comes unhooked the other chain will still hold. If you have 1 chain long enough so you can have slack in the middle and a binder on each side that would work. You also have the option of connecting the chains up on one end and then tightening them up by moving the tractor and then using binders on the other end. DOT requires the operator of the transport vehicle be able to move the tractor to tighten up the chains as required. As long as you have the key and the tractor is operational you're fine.

In the bigger picture if your just moving your tractor for your personal use most states will not mess with you if you aren't up to DOT specs. But my motto is I would rather over do it right than get it wrong and see my tractor fall off the trailer and cause damage to something or worse hurt someone.

 

[LHS Inc]

Yea, as far as DOT is concerned that is illegal. You need 4 seperate chains. What I do is chain the rear and then pull the tractor forward to draw the chains tight, then install the front chains and rachet them down.

I chain down my tractor just like FF117 does. DOT calls for four separate chain contact points with the trailer if the equipment is over 10,000 lbs. At least thats what is required in Maryland.

Best to check with your State DOT if you are legal or not if that is a concern of yours.