Pay extra for Load Range E's?

[puckgrinder85]

I bought tires at WalMart, Goodyear something or another, and was the same exact tire you get from a GoodYear dealer, only $75 cheaper. A house brand may be inferior but a name brand and specific model has to be the same, unless you know something I don't know. Plus you get service with a smile. I have no problem getting tires at WM.

You may be able to get some tires there that you could anywhere else, however 90% of the tires they sell are cheaper because they are low grade tires. Im sure they can drop the price from buying bulk, thats how thier whole system works for the store. Just my opinion, i think they are cheap and I dont like cheaping on tires.



About the tires.. Most load range E tires are rated for around say 3000lbs. Thats 12,000 lbs total your tires can haul total, likely way above what you're going to be hauling -in the truck-. If you've got a 2500 and hauling a 3000lb pallet in the back of your bed then yea, i'd recommend you sticking it out with the E's. But if your truck is a grocery getter/ haul the kids and random crap around there is no need for them, way overkill unless you like them for other reasons which is totally fine. If you want to save the money and can do it safely by all means.

 

[JDgreen227]

You may be able to get some tires there that you could anywhere else, however 90% of the tires they sell are cheaper because they are low grade tires. Im sure they can drop the price from buying bulk, thats how thier whole system works for the store. Just my opinion, i think they are cheap and I dont like cheaping on tires.



About the tires.. Most load range E tires are rated for around say 3000lbs. Thats 12,000 lbs total your tires can haul total, likely way above what you're going to be hauling -in the truck-. If you've got a 2500 and hauling a 3000lb pallet in the back of your bed then yea, i'd recommend you sticking it out with the E's. But if your truck is a grocery getter/ haul the kids and random crap around there is no need for them, way overkill unless you like them for other reasons which is totally fine. If you want to save the money and can do it safely by all means.

My OEM Firestones are rated 3042 pounds per tire @80 psi. With a full fuel tank and 7 passengers, my GMC weighs 7540 pounds. Yes, E's are pure overkill for my situation.

 

[3930dave]

I wish they still made the steeltex tires.

Saw some Steeltex on a low mileage F350 dump body, recently restored truck. Standing up well, and very good tread still.

I run Transforce ATs on my E350, and like them. I'm OK with their ride, but my van will be heavier than JD's truck, and I didn't buy an E350 expecting a limo ride.

I've seen these Transforce ATs stand up very well locally in tow truck use.

Rgds, D.

 

[Case485Guy]

If you dont haul over the tires limits, which really is hard to to do, then do you what you want too. I mean why buy a 10 ply if you dont need it? Screw all the TBH attorneys here. I am here to tell you, nothing better than Walmart for road Hazard, say what you want but when I ran hot shot trucks, for the most part it was replace and go, no questions asked and they are everywhere. Not the fstest srvice but the cheapest.

 

[mangus580]

Personally, I would stick with E's on it. My brother has a 95 Suburban with the 6.5 diesel in it. It had D's on it when he got it, and was real 'squishy' in curves and such. It all went away when he put load range E's on it. While D's may be rated to handle the weight of your Yukon loaded, they will not handle as nice as the E's will.

I have 2 suburbans, one a 99, one 95 both with the diesel as well, and I refuse to put anything less than E's on them. I dont think you will see a ride difference at all, and I suspect you wont like the way the D's handle in the end.

 

[RobertN]

What does your book say? I originally went by the door sticker, but just wound up wearing the middle of my tires. I towed, but usually really light loads(utility trailer).

For my Ram2500, it has an addendum. For 265-65-16E, it has a full load inflation and a "light load" inflation.

Full Load = 70psi rear, 55psi front
Light Load = 40psi rear. 45psi front

My truck came with 265's option, but 245 was standard. Book says:
Full Load = 80psi rear, 65psi front
Light Load = 40psi rear. 50psi front

While we are on the topic, got a 2005 2500hd 4x4, when from stock 245 75r16 to 265 75 r16. When I run 65 psi all around I.swear the tires seem.over inflated, touching only in middle. Truck is used really just for driving now, no loads over 1000#. should I reduce psi to 45 like the half tons? Door says 55 front, 80 back. I did go to load D

 

[JDgreen227]

OP here...owner's manual for my GMC says to "refer to the label on the driver's door for CORRECT COLD TIRE INFLATION PRESSURES" (emphasis added) and the label says 50psi front, 80 psi rear. There is NO mention whatsoever in the owners manual about tire pressures other than what I just stated.

 

[sld]

On my last 3 Superdutys I went from E 265's to D 285's and there was less than 100 lbs per tire difference. In my opinion, I would be concerned more about the sidewall weight rating than the E or D class.

Also, for nails and such, I thought the E rated tires only had 10 plies in the sidewall. Has nothing to do with the tread thickness. I could be wrong.

On edit, the best way to check inflation is to wet your tire and drive on concrete to check the foot print. Pretty much self explanatory.

 

[RobertN]

I did too on my Ram. Looked nice, worked well out hunting. But, the handling under load was definitely affected, as the tires were "squishier". Went back to E rated after that set wore out. Much better towing the 5th wheel, tractor etc.

On my last 3 Superdutys I went from E 265's to D 285's and there was less than 100 lbs per tire difference. In my opinion, I would be concerned more about the sidewall weight rating than the E or D class.

 

[timswi]

Doubt the Op will be towing a 5th wheel with a Yukon XL...Just sayin.