Trailering a John Deere sub compact 1026 what size ratchet straps do I need???

[Case485Guy]

I



Don't take this the wrong way but you seem lost. Get someone who knows what they are doing to help you the first time. A case of beer wilk be payment enough and save you injury in the long run.

Chris

Ditto,
No offense meant from me either, but having trouble with the ratchet straps and not knowing how to use break over binders or tighten a chain up. You really should get someone that has some experience in load securement help you the first time around. I would not use the push button straps. We all got to start some where and getting good advice is the first step.
Good luck

[Code54]

I would go with Chains and chain binders (ratchet style) for the tractor - you don't have to worry about a sharp edge somewhere cutting it and you know you are always safer with chains. (don't cut, stretch, or break easily)

Then place a 3" ratchet strap over each implement - Tractor Supply had some nice ones for $10 last time I was in there (they are LONG - like 20' or something and are a good deal)

If you stop by a decent tractor dealer (maybe where you bought it) they should be able to show you how to do it in about 5 minutes. Nothing wrong with asking to make sure you are doing it right and safe!

[Case485Guy]

some videos that might help, unfortunately no tractor specific. But these are the same concept. plus 2 on the ratchet strap use.

Trailering and hauling construction equipment - YouTube

Easy Ratchet Tie Down Strap Demonstration - etrailer.com - YouTube how to use a ratchet strap and another how to use ratchet tie down - YouTube

WHEEL LOADER SECUREMENT 001 - YouTube wheel loader securement

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eoz_nEI8Bwk ratchet binder
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c14lcpne_xI 2: ratchet binder..pretty good one on how to work it

[KennyG]

I have a 2320 and, although it would be good to fasten to the frame, with the way the small tractors are built, that's not so easy. I use four 2" straps. I use two on the front to hold down the bucket if I have the loader on or I hook to the weight bracket if the loader is off. I cross two over the back tires and quick hitch on the back. It makes for real quick attachments but I usually only haul a few miles. If I was towing a few hundred, I'd probably spend more time

[joshuabardwell]

If you stop by a decent tractor dealer (maybe where you bought it) they should be able to show you how to do it in about 5 minutes. Nothing wrong with asking to make sure you are doing it right and safe!

Ha ha! My dealer sent me home with my tractor on the back of my (borrowed from a neighbor) car-hauler with a single 10k ratchet strap over the floor board and the parking brake set. I didn't know any better at the time and assumed he was doing it "right and safe". Whoops.

[bigtiller]

I hauled my 2305 with a 2" strap on all four corners of the frame. I wouldn't trust anything smaller. I also had an 8 inch chain hooked to the stake pocket that each strap hooked into. That way there was nothing touching the strap to chafe it. The straps were 20' long when new but I cut them down to 6' to fit my rig and not have to deal with all the extra strap. I found a spot on the ROPS mounting brackets for a large welded eye-bolt to bolt to on each side. The strap hooked into it. The straps have a 3333 pound WWL and cost about $20 but they are on sale for as low as $10 each last fall. I always buy a couple when I see them that cheap.

But if you already have the chain then that is the way I would go. It is just heaver and slower using chain.

[the old grind]

I use chains on all four corners, sometimes criss-crossing the two in the back. I slip the HST's range selector between gears and use cam-over binders at either end (w/johnson bar) to take up slack and adjust position. Range selector goes into 'low' & brake is locked. Binder handles are lashed down with ... binder-twine. (natch!) This works ok for the little guys (<4000#?). I confess to anchoring the fronts by the loader crossbars, since mounting bolts are torque-checked at every greasing and I'd hate to gamble yanking on the axle if I got rear-ended. I bet could drive it off ok with a bent loader, ... might not try to with a busted f-axle housing, iffy steering, and 90wt pouring on the wood deck. (No minimum speed requirements that I know of, but I drive like Grandma all the time ....)

Anyway, IMO there might be more angles/tricks to using straps the best way than chains (if there is a best way), but shortening 'em and adding anti-chafe extensions is a great tip. (Thanks!) Might have to tweak mine & try 'em again. Left to that, I'd want wheel chocks in there somewhere too 'cuz I'm usually more cautious than confident. I can't imagine using a come-along to anchor anything heavier that 1/2 its capacity. Straps seem to be rated much higher, but I don't know if the ratchet mechanisms are as tough as that implies. If the OP gets good dope on 'em I'll be taking notes.

[Code54]

Ha ha! My dealer sent me home with my tractor on the back of my (borrowed from a neighbor) car-hauler with a single 10k ratchet strap over the floor board and the parking brake set. I didn't know any better at the time and assumed he was doing it "right and safe". Whoops.

Thats pretty sad!!! It is a real shame you can't count on the dealer to do it right and teach a new buyer the correct way to haul their expensive purchase home... 5 minutes could save $1000 in accident costs plus build customer loyalty!

[PhilY]

You can search out the DOT regs in your area, but from what I remember, the WLL of each strap must be at least 1/2 the weight of the item it is securing. Like others have said, 4 are needed for wheeled vehicles and this gives your straps the ability to hold the total weight of the object in each direction. I would probably go with larger straps as this is just the minimum and it all depends to on how fast you may be going if there is an accident.

[DFB]

I tow alot of stuff. With my JD 4100 use chain and binders set up on the rear and 2 inch double hook ratchet straps off the front frame. I rather use chain on the back usually to much stuff can rub on straps. Never hurts to pad under straps where they might rub so wont get cut either. When I move the 4320 at work I use chain both front and rear over the axles, yup parking brake locked, hydraulic equpment down tight. Sometimes makes it hard to get at certain attachment points with equipment mounted. Balancing the load is important too. Depending on the equipment I sometimes drive on in reverse to keep the weight over axles and off the toungue. Go any long distance check often cuz things can move especially over poor roads. I hope your using trailer brakes.