What do you think of these tie downs?
- Thread starter TNhobbyfarmer
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CompactTractorFan
Super Member
RoMad
Platinum Member
I would think you could get those welded on for $ 30 or so and then you will be in good shape. Let us know what you decide.
OP
TNhobbyfarmer
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I have decided not to use as currently installed. I don't weld so l will probably have someone do it for me.
newbury
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I agree with buying quality, but don't ASSUME they will last forever. Tow guy was trying to get a trailer on his flat bed. Chain snapped and missed our heads by about a foot. Even good chains and straps may break, always check them before use.
texasjohn
Super Member
Those D rings are handy. There are improvements that could be done, as has been suggested. But, let me list the ways that they could fail:
Bolts pull out...but big washers underneath or a metal strap underneath can prevent that.
Wood could split...see above fix
wood could come loose from its mooring to trailer frame...affix to wider/different board
wood could become compromised over time...rot, cut, burned...keep an eye on them
D-rings could beak....watch for corrosion.
My experience is that only 4 tie down points is insufficient....thus, I'd leave what you have and add more...with attention to placement for various types of loads and sizes.
I'd be sure that the chains/straps/binders/hooks are all of quality material and check tightness during transport.... load shifting is more likely to result in a loose load than attachment point failures.
I've always considered the worst situation to be traveling at 60mph and getting into a jack knife or turn over situation. Safety devices are hard to devise that completely restrain things under such conditions.
Your best safety device is your own awareness, attention to detail, concern for realistic and reasonable precautions, good driving habits, trailer, pickup, hitch/ball mechanical condition, towing mirrors, proper tire inflation, etc.....
Me, I try to follow my rule: EVERY TIME WALK AROUND THE ENTIRE RIG BEFORE GETTING INTO THE DRIVER SEAT AND LOOK FOR PROBLEMS. Every time make one last walk around double check. Sometimes I am embarrassed to discover the jack still down, lights need hooking up, or the safety chains are not attached....once it was a hot wheel from broken bearing. Tired and in a hurry.... this is when you are most vulnerable to making a mistake and most need to double check things!!
Bolts pull out...but big washers underneath or a metal strap underneath can prevent that.
Wood could split...see above fix
wood could come loose from its mooring to trailer frame...affix to wider/different board
wood could become compromised over time...rot, cut, burned...keep an eye on them
D-rings could beak....watch for corrosion.
My experience is that only 4 tie down points is insufficient....thus, I'd leave what you have and add more...with attention to placement for various types of loads and sizes.
I'd be sure that the chains/straps/binders/hooks are all of quality material and check tightness during transport.... load shifting is more likely to result in a loose load than attachment point failures.
I've always considered the worst situation to be traveling at 60mph and getting into a jack knife or turn over situation. Safety devices are hard to devise that completely restrain things under such conditions.
Your best safety device is your own awareness, attention to detail, concern for realistic and reasonable precautions, good driving habits, trailer, pickup, hitch/ball mechanical condition, towing mirrors, proper tire inflation, etc.....
Me, I try to follow my rule: EVERY TIME WALK AROUND THE ENTIRE RIG BEFORE GETTING INTO THE DRIVER SEAT AND LOOK FOR PROBLEMS. Every time make one last walk around double check. Sometimes I am embarrassed to discover the jack still down, lights need hooking up, or the safety chains are not attached....once it was a hot wheel from broken bearing. Tired and in a hurry.... this is when you are most vulnerable to making a mistake and most need to double check things!!
JIGBUILDER
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I have 4 of them down each side of my 10k car hauler. I drilled the square carrage bolt holes out to 5/8" with a core drill.
I used grade #8 bolts/nutz down through the top of the channel at the side of the trailer and a crossmember. They sure come in handy.
I used grade #8 bolts/nutz down through the top of the channel at the side of the trailer and a crossmember. They sure come in handy.
OP
TNhobbyfarmer
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If you get a chance, post a picture of your setup.
Carriage bolts when formed have a weak spot. The caps on top of the bolt come off first. The idea of running a good grade bolt thru some metal and using a lock washer with a regular washer should work if you do not weld. Many times I have had to use a hold down ring as a pull me out ring. They should be strong.
JIGBUILDER
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May take a while. The wifes digital camera stopped taking pics.