7 pole trailer connectors

[cockeyedMFer]

Your Idea of terminatind the wires in a waterproof box is a good one. That is the way I have my trailers set up also.
I have never used your style of connectors, but if they don't work; they don't work.
Here is what I use and I have absolutly no problems year after year:
Pollak Heavy-Duty, 7-Pole, Round Pin, Trailer Wiring Connector - Trailer End Pollak Wiring PK11700
There is no reason to be fighting your trailer connections all the time. You have better things to do.
I would also look at it as a safty issue.

I used to run only the pollack metal connectors and never had any trouble, but changed my trailers back to the flat RV style after buying a newer truck that was set up that way. I want my Pollacks back! We used to carry a 7-pin to 7 flat homemade adapter in the truck just in case...and it allowed quick wiring changes if a truck or trailer was setup differently. Might go back to that.

Maybe I'm not getting quality RV connectors, but they don't last nearly as long and of course the plastic breaks easier when you do something stupid.

 

[SLHawkins]

I, too, have had more success wtih the 7-pin round connectors. They just tend to be more durable becuase of their use in the heavy truck and trailer industry. Two of my trailers are 7-pin round rather instead of the 7-pin rv (flat). I was able to find a heavy duty metal (shaped like a pistol grip) 7-pin flat (rv) pigtail for my dump trailer at either advanced auto or autozone. I will get a picture and see if I can find a part number later today, if you'd think it would be helpful. One of the advantages of the 7-way round pigtail is I can pull my fifth wheel behind my pickup or my freightliner. They do make adapters to go between the two so when you loan your trailers out, no rewiring is required of the tow vehicle or the trailer. Here is a link for a 7-pin flat to 7-pin round adapter. They do make them for both ways (round vehicle to flat trailer and flat vehicle to round trailer). Pollak 7-Way Round Pin to 7-Way Flat Pin Adapter 12-724

 

[5picker]

I never thought about the connection inside the plug possibly giving me the problem, that very well could be and I am blaming the wrong part of the plug... I could solder the connections to the plug you have showed but what concerns me with those is keeping the crud out of the plug where the wires enter, that is not a weather proof connection unless you silicone it or something...

The plug has a soft silicone insert at the back end that does a good job of squeezing around the wire. But you are right... not 100% waterproof and a smear of silicone would never hurt.

 

[Dallas_Lilly]

I really like the idea of the 7 pole rounds... They should be pretty robust if used in the trucking industry... It seems that many people including diamondpilot don't have problems with the 7 pole flats and maybe I am just careless :duh:

I, too, have had more success wtih the 7-pin round connectors. They just tend to be more durable becuase of their use in the heavy truck and trailer industry. Two of my trailers are 7-pin round rather instead of the 7-pin rv (flat). I was able to find a heavy duty metal (shaped like a pistol grip) 7-pin flat (rv) pigtail for my dump trailer at either advanced auto or autozone. I will get a picture and see if I can find a part number later today, if you'd think it would be helpful. One of the advantages of the 7-way round pigtail is I can pull my fifth wheel behind my pickup or my freightliner. They do make adapters to go between the two so when you loan your trailers out, no rewiring is required of the tow vehicle or the trailer. Here is a link for a 7-pin flat to 7-pin round adapter. They do make them for both ways (round vehicle to flat trailer and flat vehicle to round trailer). Pollak 7-Way Round Pin to 7-Way Flat Pin Adapter 12-724

 

[megaboz]

I had some issues with running lights and brake lights on my trailer. Thought for darn sure it was the plug. It was dark and I was in New York and got pulled over for no tail lights on the trailer. I was so mad I kicked the tongue on the trailer and the lights came on. Kicked it again they went off. Turns out the only ground that was working was the trailer hitch to the trailer. Go figure. After investigating all my connections I realized that everything is grounded to the frame to the trailer. So even if one of those grounds is rusted up, you're going to have an issue. In my case it was from the wiring plug in on the trailer where the ground was real bad. So in the rest of my time kicking the trailer I started playing with the wires and while I wiggled the plug the light came on, but there was nothing wrong with the plug, it was the grounding at the trailer. Sometimes it would ground sometimes it wouldn't. Just so happen when the trailer was making good contact with the hitch ball all was well.

I've never had a plug on my trailer go bad but they will get corrosion in there eventually and will work and one day it will just break. I've read it is due to the current being delivered to the connectors and of course one type of wire (copper vs aluminum) versus a terminal of a different metal type that will cause the corrosion (kind of like your battery terminals), so I am sure there is some truth in that. So I am sure a good high quality plug will resolve the issue.

I got a kick out of the one post about their weird trailer, this same trailer that I have is definitively weird. I have loaned it to the same person with the same truck and one time the blinkers would work as they are supposed to and then the next time left would blink right and right would blink left. Never had that issue on my truck, but on his, we never know what it is going to do.

ALSO, you do not have to reply to a post to subscribe to it, try Thread Tools at the top of the page.

 

[Soundguy]

i try to only use metal sockets and plugs due tot he rubber plugs deforming and not fitting well.. and the plastic sockets wearing and not fitting.

also.. do yourself a favor and put a handfull of grease inthe sockets when not usingthem.. protects the contacts.. dispels misture.. etc.

Good Morning All, I was hoping somebody could give a advice on a different type of 7 pole trailer plugs. I have 5 trailers, a car hauler, dump trailer, camp trailer and two horse trailers, all have 7 pole flat plugs similar to this 7-Way Molded Trailer Wire Connector, 3' Long Hopkins Wiring H20042

I have even went as far as installing waterproof junction boxes on the trailers to make the connections rather than splicing wires and having a connection that can corrode.

On my truck I have a plug similar to this Hopkins Multi-Tow 7-Way Blade and 4-Way Flat Trailer Connector - Toyota Hopkins Wiring HM43374 except for a chevy.

My problem is this, the plugs last for about 6 months to a year and then inevitably one of the connections gets loose and doesn't always make contact! right now it is the tail light contact and driving down the road I can hit a bump and and watch the marker lights flicker. Now I know most would think loose connection or ground but when I got home I could wiggle the plug at the truck and watch it go on and off.

Does anybody have a suggestion of better plugs? I am OK with changing style and am capable of wiring something completely different. I would love to keep the factory wiring in tack on the truck but if need be I can change that too.

Any ideas?

 

[jwstewar]

I've never had a problem with the plugs themselves that like others wasn't self inflicted. On our campers that we've had over the years I always sling the plug up over the gas tanks and let it hang back down then put the tank cover back on. The plug always looks new. Mom's '93 plug still works like new. On my stock trailer and my utility trailer I find some place "in" the tongue to stick them to keep them out of the weather. First thing I did to the stock trailer when I bought it was took the 6-pin plug off that I couldn't get to work with either of my adapters (one wired to each of the "standards") and put the 7-pin RV plug on it. Haven't had a problem since - well except for the time a buddy borrowed it and put the cord away before lowering the jack and crushed it with the jack. He was there the next night fixing it. Trucks I will keep the dielectric in the socket and make sure to keep any debris out of there that accumulates. A lot less problems with corrosion with the plastic plugs (to the point I get very, very little if any now) than there used to be with the metal ones that seemed to accumulate a lot more moisture.

I like the 7-pin plugs so much I added the 7-pin plug to my little New Holland tractor for trailer lights and battery power. Might even hook up a spare brake controller I have one of these days.:laughing: Heck, I've even wired up my 12-volt sprayer to use the 7-pin plug. I also wired a small RV water pump up to run off the trailer plug on the truck (or any vehicle for that matter since it is wired to the standard) to transfer fresh water from a holding tank in the bed of the truck to the camper holding tank.

 

[medic0648]

A good way to help keep the dissimilar metals from corroding as much is use some of the anti-corrosion spray between the screw and wire, and again once connected. Also once I make sure all the connections are correct I make sure there is slack and fill the inside of the plug with silicone and make sure I get it completely filled. Haven't had any issues with corrosion inside the connector and never had the plug come off.

 

[mikehaugen]

speaking of die-electric grease, the only one I ever see around here is the CRC and it comes in a little pressurized can with a long spout. I never seem to be able to get much out of it before it stops working. Anyone else have that problem? What other ones do you guys use that come in a different dispenser, possibly a squeezable tube or even a tub?

 

[aczlan]

Its available in larger quantities as well, see: Permatex 22058 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, 3 oz. Tube : Amazon.com : Automotive

Aaron Z