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  1. #21
    Super Member clemsonfor's Avatar
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    Sep 2009
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    6,438
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    Greenwood Co., SC
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    Yanmar YM2000

    Default Re: High Mileage class of Motor Oils

    isn't seafoam recommended for use close to an oil change not the whole change? I don't think it will hurt anything I just not sure I would run it the whole time myself? I know that's not how the directions read though, it says for use all the time. I just am leary of using anything in my vehicles (even though I use and trust in seafoam) esp something with only 125k! that thing has an easy 175k left in it!!
    YM2000. MF dirt scoop,4' Jbar bushhog,boompole, LMC 12-16 disk harrow, 4' Atlas boxblade (with rippers). 1980 chevy K10,1990 ford ranger 2wd (285K miles),1997 saturn SL2 (twin cam!!),2001Toyota Higlander
    1986 Cobia 177 sunskiff w/1981 Johnson 60 hp
    1991 Javalen 17ft w/same year 150 Johnson GT
    Troybuilt 4 cycle & Echo 2 stroke,cold natured(need carb rebuild),MS390 Stihl, Northern tool pressure washer, mixes water into the oil in the pump(now dead, motor on a tiller). 5000 watt generator.

  2. #22
    Elite Member GManBart's Avatar
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    Dec 2012
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    2,926
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    Belleville, MI
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    Massey Ferguson 241, Massey Ferguson 2244 crawler

    Default Re: High Mileage class of Motor Oils

    Quote Originally Posted by Gale Hawkins View Post
    I think that may have been the case for the 4WD's in 2003 but ours 2WD since I do not do 4WD's due to poverty.
    Escalade, and poverty in the same sentence? Lol....

  3. #23
    Super Star Member Diamondpilot's Avatar
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    Jan 2007
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    14,533
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    Daleville, IN
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    Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by GManBart View Post

    Escalade, and poverty in the same sentence? Lol....
    I thought the same but did not want to say anything.

    Chris

  4. #24
    Elite Member
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    Sep 2009
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    Murray, KY
    Tractor
    265 MF / JD 310B Backhoe

    Default Re: High Mileage class of Motor Oils

    Guys if you have never owned an old high end vehicle it might sound like an oxymoron.

    Even at wholesale I would not have touched it if it had been a 4WD vehicle. Most people thinks it is because it has the factory tow package including the front hooks.

  5. #25
    Elite Member
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    Sep 2009
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    Murray, KY
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    265 MF / JD 310B Backhoe

    Default Re: High Mileage class of Motor Oils

    Quote Originally Posted by clemsonfor View Post
    isn't seafoam recommended for use close to an oil change not the whole change? I don't think it will hurt anything I just not sure I would run it the whole time myself? I know that's not how the directions read though, it says for use all the time. I just am leary of using anything in my vehicles (even though I use and trust in seafoam) esp something with only 125k! that thing has an easy 175k left in it!!
    clemsonfor I prefer to run in it the crankcase for a few days (25-75 miles). Because Sea Foam works while you sleep too I think having it in for several 5-10 mile runs does the most good but sometimes I just warm up an engine and then add the Sea Foam (about 1.5 oz per quart of motor oil) and let it idle for 20 minutes before I drain.

    For automatic transmissions I like to add the Sea Foam about 200-300 miles before I change it out. In the gas tank I just run the 2oz per gallon ratio per info on the can if I want to get a good cleaning. If I am going to use it through the intake I like to do that just before changing the engine oil so not to dump a lot of carbon into the crankcase right after a fresh oil change.

    Now I did run it in the crankcase of the 5.3L for about 160 miles because I though and still do think the oil pressure relief valve in the oil pump may have been one factor in our wild oil gauge readings. The wild readings with even no oil pressure on the gauge did go away before we installed the new sending unit. I also wanted to flush the crank case well because I was moving from dino to synthetic at the next change.

    Today we put some interstate miles on the SUV staying out of OD because I had a tank of 1:64 ratio of Sea Foam in the gas tank. The oil pressure was rock solid at 2500 RPM but at 3000RPM/70MPH sometimes it would jump up to 70-75 PSI and back down to about 60 PSI in rapid order with the cruise control set. It never when to the low side.

    The first 20 mile on the interstate I was getting up to 80 MPH which equals 3500 RPM and letting off until it got back down to 50 MPH then go WOT to 80 then repeat over an over to request a full spray from the injectors while running the 1:64 Sea Foam with premium gas. After we ate we went to a nearby zip line park because it was up to about 50F today and the kids like zip lines.

    When we got back on the interstate Oil Pressure was stable again and with reading more like the Blazer. At idle the dash gauge reports 35 PSI which was the same as the manual gauge reported. The manual gauge also reported 60 at 2K RPM and 65 at 3K RPM. After lunch I now see 60 PSI at 2000 RPM and 65 at 3K.

    While I have Sea Foam in the tank the engine only has the new change to Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 motor oil in it.

    I expect part of my initial problem was related to the oil pump pressure relief valve being dirty and sticking. For years the engine as seldom seen over 2000 RPM I am sure. After the oil change I did some WOT take offs which meant it saw 5000 RPM because that is the GM computer high shift points. The Low Oil Pressure reading/alarm started about 10 minutes after a couple WOT take offs then shutting off the engine for a few minutes then restarting it. This oil pressure issue never occurred when it was cold on start up not never when driving it down the road hot or cold. It was only an issue sometimes on a hot restart but it always went to normal after 4-5 restarts. It was shut down each time if the oil pressure did not pop to and stay around 40 in 10 seconds.

    From this point forward I plan to always run Sea Foam in the crank case for 50 miles before any oil change but especially these 5.3L and 6.0L GM engines that have this known failure point of the oil pump high pressure relief valve getting dirty and sticking.

    Sea Foam does not stay in the oil too long because I think cooks off pretty fast. I have ran it full time the the backhoe to help get the water out of it and would run a few cans for a few days before changing out the UTF of any piece of equipment.

  6. #26
    Elite Member
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    Murray, KY
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    265 MF / JD 310B Backhoe

    Default 2003 GM Sudden Loss of Oil Pressure Experience

    This is an update on the 2003 5.3L GM engine with sudden loss of oil pressure after restart when hot.

    As noted above after the issue went away after running Sea Foam in the crank case after a fresh oil change still the oil pressure when running at 3000 RPM (70 MPH in 3rd) on the interstate was erratic even after the hot restart oil pressure sudden loss had stopped then the leaking oil pressure sending unit was replace.

    I drove it to work today and after it was totally up to operating temp after 10 miles the oil pressure gauge needle was rock solid at 3000 RPM on cruise control.

    My current thinking at 126K miles and no WOT (wide open throttle) usage the oil pump pressure relief valve was sticking open on hot restarts due to varnish/crud build up. Now 600 miles after draining the last oil change (dino Castrol 5W-30) after 210 miles with Sea Foam in it for the last 160 of the 210 miles and refilling with 10W-40 Mobile 1 High Mileage motor oil all is stable at all times/conditions the oil pressure read out gauge is stable (not jumping around) at any RPM.

    The plan is to run with this Mobil 1 option for 1000-1500 miles and go to 5W-30 standard Mobil 1.

    Just wanted to do this follow up for those who surf on this subject and read my other detailed post on our oil pressure alarm sounding panic. That is one sick feeling when it is the best vehicle that you own stating it has no oil pressure. The fact that oil pressure always returned after 5-6 restarts when hot gave me the change to let the Sea Foam work. On these hot restarts the oil pressure would like pop to 40 PSI, drop, recover, drop and then the alarm would start chiming. This sudden loss of oil pressure never occurred when the engine was cold or when driving down the road in our case.

    Some reported driving for days with the low oil pressure alarm sounding but my background would make at impossible for me to do. Best of luck if you have this condition. I think every case can be different and that my experiences/results may NOT even apply in your case.

    Our sudden loss of oil pressure occurred after 40 miles following a new oil after I did some WOT take offs where it was shifting at about 5000 RPM. In the last 20,000 I doubt if the wife had ever had it over 2000 RPM. I think I made the oil pressure relief valve located in the oil pump mounted on the front of the engine MOVE more than it had in years and trash was making it work in an erratic manner.

    Again I have no proof this is what happened. That is just from my years of being around motors and my tool and die training/background. The oil sensor was leaking and needed to be changed but the sudden loss of oil pressure on hot start ups had stopped before we changed the sensor. As noted in other posts before we put in the new sensor we checked the oil pressure with a manual gauge at the block and got 35 PSI at 650 RPM and 60 PSI at 2000 RPM with the oil/engine at operating temps.

  7. #27
    Epic Contributor Soundguy's Avatar
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    Central florida
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    ym1700, NH7610S, Ford 8N, 2N, NAA, 660, 850 x2, 541, 950, 941D, 951, 2000, 3000, 4000, 4600, 5000, 740, IH 'C' 'H', CUB, John Deere 'B', allis 'G', case VAC

    Default Re: High Mileage class of Motor Oils

    keep us posted on this!

  8. #28
    Elite Member
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    Murray, KY
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    265 MF / JD 310B Backhoe

    Default Re: High Mileage class of Motor Oils

    Soundguy so far so good but the more I read have the Sudden Loss of Oil Pressure in the GM 4.8, 5.3, 5.7 and 6.0L family of engines the more I am concerned about the best motor oil to use that might help prevent this known failure point in this GM engine family.

    Oils: What motor oil should I use? Which oil is best for my Porsche or aircooled engine?

    This site was very helpful with myths and facts especially with the questions and answers at the end. It is written to Porsche owners of old and newer cars. The writer is actually a maker of after market engine parts for Porsche/VW.

    From this site I was able to figure out Mobil 1 High Mileage motor oil is not all the same when it comes to Zn, moly, etc additives. Only M1 HM rated to SL offers the higher levels and the 10w-40 M1 HM that I am running does NOT but it is still good oil but being rated to SM means lower levels of additives than I thought. Going to the lower weight to get the better additive package. API ratings are spelled out in a chart on this site link above.

    If anyone finds good info about preventing the sticking relief valve in the GM 4.8, 5.3, 5.7 and 6.0L family of engines please post it. We just got lucky when it cooled the relief valve would then close again. Some have to pull the oil pumps and replace.

  9. #29
    Super Star Member Diamondpilot's Avatar
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    Daleville, IN
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    Jinma 254/284 Ford 861 Powermaster at work

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Gale Hawkins View Post

    If anyone finds good info about preventing the sticking relief valve in the GM 4.8, 5.3, 5.7 and 6.0L family of engines please post it. We just got lucky when it cooled the relief valve would then close again. Some have to pull the oil pumps and replace.

    Simple, sell the GM.

    Sorry, couldn't resist.

    Chris

  10. #30
    Elite Member
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    Lee, IL
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    John Deere 1070

    Default Re: High Mileage class of Motor Oils

    Quote Originally Posted by Diamondpilot View Post
    Simple, sell the GM.

    Sorry, couldn't resist.

    Chris
    I guess it has been a while, DP!

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