Adding Brakes to Trailer

[toddwulf]

I've got a 16', dual axle trailer that I want to add brakes to. Here's what I do know:
1. Use Regular Caliper vs. Disc
2. Do Both axles vs. just one
3. Use Electric vs. Surge
I know I need a controller and I think I've got that figured, but your opinions count!

What am I missing, what's been your experience, Where are the how to web sites with pix (no search results on TBN /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif) for someone who's done a rear brake job on a jeep long, long ago. Most of all, what does the collective wisdom of fellow TBN'ers think they'd do, time and money not being an issue, to do it right. Thanks in advance!

 

[RobS]

Tons of good info at Dexter Axle . Assuming your axles have the brake flange, it should be all bolt on. You can get the brakes as complete kits. Dexter has pdf tech sheets and all sorts of handy information.

If your axles don't have the flanges you're into a whole new ball game. May be easier to get complete axles with brakes /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[toddwulf]

/forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gifHmmmm, brake flanges.....Guess I have to go out and check that.....Thanks, I'm crusing Dexter now....

 

[toddwulf]

/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif Brake Flanges are present. I assume it's a welded square steel piece with holes to through bolt the brake assy to.

 

[RobS]

<font color="blue">Brake Flanges are present </font>

Hey, sounds like you are in luck! If you've got a trailer/RV store nearby you should be able to pick up everything you need. Measure your axle tube diameter, the flange bolt holes (diameter and locations), hub/stud dimensions and wheel bolt circle. Better yet, take your trailer with you /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[yooperdave]

What would you expect to pay to do this kind of retrofit?

Yooper Dave

 

[Joe1]

This may hit twice. If it does my apologies. You will also want a break away with your trailer. This is essentially a cable operated switch and a drycell battery mounted on the trailer. The breakaway switch attaches to the tow vehicle by a light cable. If the trailer "breaks away" from the tow vehicle, the cable pulls a pin in the break away switch which activates the trailer brakes (probably locks them up) from the drycell battery, which in theory will stop the trailer before it does any damage. Most states, if not all, require this setup, and it is a good faith safety attempt to reduce your liability.

 

[RobS]

<font color="blue"> What would you expect to pay to do this kind of retrofit?
</font>

Absolutely no idea /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif We have a large RV distributor nearby (large RV industry in our area) but they don't seem to have a web presence. Either do a search for "trailer supplies", "RV supplies" or contact a local dealer. It probably won't be cheap as you are talking complete drum brake assemblies, drums, maybe hubs, and various wiring etc.

Someone else mentioned the breakaway kit. A good idea but not required. We've got one on our camper but not my flatbed. I'd add it if I towed it more. You can always add it later.

BTW, my trailer only has brakes on one axle. Works fine for me and that may be another way to keep the costs down /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[toddwulf]

OK Guys, It costs around $125 per wheel to add brakes. This includes the breakaway switch, and all brakes, hubs, etc...This does not include the controller, which runs around $170. It's fairly easy and I'm already halfway through it. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gifI'm doing all four wheels as father in law is borrowing it to haul his (new) tractor from one side of AZ. to the other in a few weeks. Thanks for all your help and iput. Also, the gentleman that pointed me to Dexter was right on - All the parts from my local trailer guy are Dexter brand.

 

[Chief]

These guys were really great helping me out with trailer questions and issues. Prices are pretty competitive as well. Link to Champion Trailer