Trailer Length for JD 110 TLB ?

[ultrarunner]

The only way IMO for anyone using an 18ft trailer to haul a backhoe should back the TLB on to the trailer to get the correct weight distruibution. The FEL bucket can slightly overhang the rear deck of the trailer if properly chained on.

If the axles are set back and the trailer is made for a 110 the weight distribution should be spot-on.

Looks like the PJ 6" channel framed equipment trailers are standard with two 7k axles for 14k GVW

Heres a picture of the model I have...

http://gofast.sunsationtech.com/PJ618DF/pix 035.jpg

The difference between 18' and 20' is about 150 lbs more weight from the brochure...

PJ Trailers - 6" Channel Equipment (CC)

 

[capt_met]

if you generally will have room to turn around the trailer I would go as long as you feel comfortable with. I always find a reason to carry an attachment or 2 and the room is nice. with that in mind a 14,000# trailer makes sense as well. I use a 22' trailer with a dovetail and back my backhoe onto the trailer. this way i can carry an attachment on either side of the backhoe boom.

 

[KubotaToy]

I have an L45 which is similar to a 110. I haul it around on a 14k 20ft (5ft dovetail that levels so I really have 25ft to work with) and would like to have another 5ft if I had it to do over.

 

[CurlyDave]

I am convinced. It will be the 14k trailer.

Now for a second question. Tilt bed or ramps?

The ones I looked at had ramps, but did not have jackstands under the top of the ramps, which I believe can lead to a dangerous situation during loading/unloading. I think a tilt bed would be more safe, but I need advice.

Thanks,

Dave

 

[AKfish]

I am convinced. It will be the 14k trailer.

Now for a second question. Tilt bed or ramps?

The ones I looked at had ramps, but did not have jackstands under the top of the ramps, which I believe can lead to a dangerous situation during loading/unloading. I think a tilt bed would be more safe, but I need advice.

Thanks,

Dave

Dave,

I've had both types. I really liked the convenience of the tilt bed but ice and snow in Alaska made for some problems with locking/unlocking the tilt mechanism and ensuring that it would stay locked after breaking it free! As well, it was noisy with the bed clanking and clunking on rough roads or any manner of bump.

I have since sold that trailer and replaced it with a bumper-pull 14k with slide in ramps. Don't go with the slide in ramps! Your back will thank you.. It does not have the load legs at the rear of the trailer, either.

I wish that it did have them. Not for reasons of safety, necessarily. I've never been in a situation either loading or unloading that I've believed that the legs would have made any difference or not. I believe that they would be helpful to relieve some of the trailer "jump" - that rocking back and forth - especially when you first get loaded that can be especially damaging to the Park pawl in the automatic transmission of your truck.

I went to a goose neck with fold-over ramps and a flat-deck over the axles. That makes for much easier loading and unloading of materials and equipment using forks, etc.

I realize that you're considering a bumper pull... but, handling, maneuverability and safety is much better with a GN - IMO.

That said, if you're only planning to tow infrequently and/or for short distances a 14k bumper pull is more than enough trailer for your 110.

AKfish

 

[RTII]

Dave, It's easy enough to add the rear stabilizing jacks to the trailer. I think it was around $100 when I bought my PJ. Just ask for them. If they are not on the trailer you want, they can be bought separately and the base welded on easily by any welder or welding shop.

 

[Jim Miller]

I have a Kubota L39 which is a little lighter than the JD 110 and I trailer it on a Top Hat bumper pull 18', 12K with slide-in ramps. I pull with a GMC 2500HD Duramax w/Allison 6 speed. Here's a few tips I have learned over the last few years.
> Load the TLB with the backhoe at the front of the trailer for the best weight distribution.
> As you back the 110 up onto the ramps the rear of the trailer will go down and the truck rear will raise up! You absolutely need some kind of stablizing jacks to minimize the rear drop when loading/unloading. (I put adjustable jack stands on each side of the rear of the trailer and that helps a lot).
> Grade 70 transport chains w/ratchet binders - NO STRAPS!
> It takes quite a few steps to load that tractor on the trailer. When your finished - check everything AGAIN!
> Remember to "cross" your safety chains.
> Test your brakes as soon as you start moving - no surprises!!
> Spare tire for trailer, jack and lug wrench
> After towing a few miles - pull over and check everything again. Carefully feel your hubs to make sure you don't have a bearing going bad or a dragging brake.

I'm sure others can offer lots more advice. One more thing--- drivers will absolutely pull out in front of you just to see if you can really stop that much weight.

 

[RFB]

Dave,

This is a GN, but it is a 14k, 20', and the tractor load on it in the photo is 21 OAL.

 

[AKfish]

I have a Kubota L39 which is a little lighter than the JD 110 and I trailer it on a Top Hat bumper pull 18', 12K with slide-in ramps. I pull with a GMC 2500HD Duramax w/Allison 6 speed. Here's a few tips I have learned over the last few years.
> Load the TLB with the backhoe at the front of the trailer for the best weight distribution.
> As you back the 110 up onto the ramps the rear of the trailer will go down and the truck rear will raise up! You absolutely need some kind of stablizing jacks to minimize the rear drop when loading/unloading. (I put adjustable jack stands on each side of the rear of the trailer and that helps a lot).
> Grade 70 transport chains w/ratchet binders - NO STRAPS!
> It takes quite a few steps to load that tractor on the trailer. When your finished - check everything AGAIN!
> Remember to "cross" your safety chains.
> Test your brakes as soon as you start moving - no surprises!!
> Spare tire for trailer, jack and lug wrench
> After towing a few miles - pull over and check everything again. Carefully feel your hubs to make sure you don't have a bearing going bad or a dragging brake.

I'm sure others can offer lots more advice. One more thing--- drivers will absolutely pull out in front of you just to see if you can really stop that much weight.

Very good info. And, if there's something that really bears repeating it's: "One more thing--- drivers will absolutely pull out in front of you just to see if you can really stop that much weight." REALLY! However, I never believed that other driver's "intentionally" pulled that kind of stunt - I figured that they had no clue! Just plain ignorant... Most of 'em have never pulled or towed or managed any kind of load since they hauled their brother, sister or neighbor kid in their Red Flyer wagon! (Of course, nobody has a Red Flyer anymore, either!) So, they're doubly clueless...

AKfish

And I-5 around Portland and Seattle -- it's amazing that there aren't ambulances and medical staff posted every 15 miles or so on 24/7 standby along the freeway. Scary drivers....

 

[two_bit_score]

AKfish

And I-5 around Portland and Seattle -- it's amazing that there aren't ambulances and medical staff posted every 15 miles or so on 24/7 standby along the freeway. Scary drivers....

Absolutely true. That's some of the scariest traffic I've ever seen.