torquing a ball

   / torquing a ball #1  

s219

Super Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2011
Messages
8,608
Location
Virginia USA
Tractor
Kubota L3200, Deere X380, Kubota RTV-X
So I got new drawbar and ball hardware for my new truck. Got both rated for 10,000# since the truck can tow up to 9500#. The balls have a 1-1/4" shank and 1-7/8" nut, and call to be torqued to 450 ft-lb. I have a 1-7/8" wrench that is about 2' long, which means I'd need to apply about 225# to the end to get 450 ft-lb torque. My only guess how to do that is to put the drawbar in the receiver sideways (i.e., rotated 90 degrees to normal) so that the shank is horizontal and I can maybe try to hang my fat azz off the end of the wrench and put my weight into it. Any better ideas? I don't think I can find a pipe big enough to fit over the end of the wrench to make a cheater bar.
 
   / torquing a ball #2  
That's how I do it.

Chris
 
   / torquing a ball #3  
I think that under the circumstances I'd simply get it as tight as I could, however I could, and be satisfied at that:thumbsup:
 
   / torquing a ball #4  
take round 2" heavy wall pipe and beat one end oval with sledge to get it over large wrenches.
 
   / torquing a ball #5  
Just use a large enough wrench. :)

bigasswrench_616.jpg

Bruce
 
   / torquing a ball #6  
s219, I do it pretty much the same way you described.

I put blue locktite on the threads to make me feel better. I will say that those huge lock washers do a great job. If you ever remove the nut, the lock really digs into the nut.

Once tight, I take a paint marker and draw a line from the ball mount, nut and shank. This way, from time to time, I can check and see if the ball has rotated in the mount or the nut has moved on the threads. The paint mark is on the bottom, back side, so it does not look stupid.
 
   / torquing a ball #7  
s219, I do it pretty much the same way you described.

I put blue locktite on the threads to make me feel better. I will say that those huge lock washers do a great job. If you ever remove the nut, the lock really digs into the nut.

Once tight, I take a paint marker and draw a line from the ball mount, nut and shank. This way, from time to time, I can check and see if the ball has rotated in the mount or the nut has moved on the threads. The paint mark is on the bottom, back side, so it does not look stupid.

Thats a great idea.

Chris
 
   / torquing a ball #8  
As far as torque.
450ft-lb equals 5400in-lbs.
I weigh about 170lb.
5400 divided by 170 is 31.8"
So I would put a mark at 32" out from the center of the bolt shank onto your cheater bar.

I have a 18" adjustable wrench that I slide a pipe over. I put the mark at 32" on the pipe and put all my weight on the pipe at this point.
 
   / torquing a ball #9  
I weigh 245 and have a 36 inch cheater bar for my bigger sockets. I put all my weight on the bar and with blue locktite I've NEVER had a ball work loose. I do this same job on the wheel nuts on the tractor. However, they only have to go to 225 and my torque wrench goes to 250. Its not easy or fun - especially if something slips - but at least I can get them pretty much all the same.
 
   / torquing a ball #10  
There are times when having a 48" Crescent wrench and a 48" Ridgid pipe wrench around the garage is a good thing.

David Kb7uns
 
 
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