Trailer Brakes Overheating

[Hanksride]

Ok, I am fairly new to the world of electric trailer brakes so please lend me some knowledge.

I have a 2010 18ft tandem axle dovetail trailer for hauling my L2800 on not to mention jeeps, smaller tractors etc. I recently installed a Tekonsha P3 brake controller on my 2004 Z-71 pickup. I bought the trailer when it was a year old, owned by an old man and I don't think the trailer brakes were ever used on it. The trailer was kept inside a shed and probably didn't have 2 to 3 pulls on it, just like new.

I hooked the brake controller up as directed and made all the adjustments then loaded the tractor for a quick 10 mile round trip run to try it out. The rear axle (brake axle) got so hot I could smell it when I got home and I couldn't touch the wheels but for about 1 second. I figured, the brakes had not been used, maybe corroded a bit and needed to wear in then this should stop. Since then I have made a few more short runs with tractor, all within 10 miles of the house and I get the same result. I haven't smelled them any more but the wheels are still extremely hot.

I hooked it all up and jacked up one side and spun the wheel with both the brakes hooked up and with them unhooked, and the wheel spun the same (very freely) both ways. I thought I might be getting bled voltage causing them to engage slightly, but it doesn't appear to be that.

I tried once to get one of the hubs off but it didn't want to come off easily and I didn't have time to play with it long so I never actually got it removed.

Any ideas?? How warm or hot should the hubs and wheels actually get. As for stopping, they seem to be working very well except for getting pretty hot.

Thanks,

 

[tcreeley]

Are the bearings shot and over heating? Can you set the brakes too come on less?

 

[tcartwri]

Electric brakes are really a compromise. If you set the gain so that they give strong braking performance, they will get hot. If you set the gain so that they don't get overworked, you won't have full braking power when and if you really need it. Basically they teach you how to drive very conservatively with the trailer loaded. Surprising that the brakes are on the rear axle as well. Usually they're on the front.

 

[Furu]

Out here normally brakes would be on both axles not just one. I would possibly look at the bearing and see what is up with it as tcreeley said.
If you tow with the brake controller off does it still happen?
If you jack up the rear axle and spin the wheels with someone slowly applying the brakes does the wheel slow and then stop or is it an instant slam stop with any input of brakes.
My trailer wheels rarely get very warm with a 10K trailer fully loaded.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Check the bearings but as most state electric brakes are tough to find that sweet spot. It's just the nature of the beast.

Chris

 

[oldballs]

Although this comment is not helpful, I've never seen a piece of equipment, that just follows something around, cause so much maintenance and apprehension. I've put more time, and maintenance, and money on my trailer than on the old Super Duty that pulls it. :2cents:

 

[Stimw]

On my controller I have to turn it up when I have weight on the trailer and down when empty.
You might try backing off on the setting because you might be using too much pressure.
A little pressure makes a huge difference in overall vehicle braking but the trailer brakes are not meant to stop the whole load, truck and trailer and you might be adding too much.

 

[s219]

What setting (0-10) are you using on the brake controller? I guess if it was too high, the braked wheels would lock.

I have brakes on both axles and haven't really noticed them getting too hot. With brakes on just one axle, it certainly has to work harder, not to mention that is a lot less rubber to resist lockup. So maybe that's the nature of the beast as Chris said.

 

[Travelover]

It's not clear to me if all the brakes are overheating or just one or two. If all, I look for a controller issue. If just one or two, I'd look for corroded or stuck internal parts. Machinery that just sits develops all kinds of weird problems from corrosion.

 

[nc redneck]

If your Tekonsha is like mine and I think it is. It is a great controler but very hard to set correctly. My wife still struggles with after 2 years. She liked the older truck with cheap Reese set by # controler. Tekonsha is proportional and has 3 levels of boost depending on size of trailer. Check boost first and then brake adjustment under hard braking. I try to set mine in neighborhood before I hit busy streets. Truck and trailer should work together smoothly. I would guess at 4.5 or less when loaded. Unloaded 1.0 or less.
Scott