I have a 10x7 shed (sounds light, but it's actually an ice fishing house so is built a little more completely and filled with crap...er...I mean fishing stuff!)
Anyhow, I need a more controlled loading method than winching it up onto the tilt deck trailer and the whole thing crashing down once it hits the tipover point.
Would be very easy to just jack it up and crib it, but I need to be able to back the trailer underneath so the jacks have to be a couple feet outboard.
That leads me to a temporary cross beam front and rear say 10' wide to go under the 7' width of the shed. End up with the shed supported by a jack (or cribbing) at each side of both front and rear cross beams. Still fairly easy (how stout does this cross beam need to be? 4x4? 6x6? Steel?)
Now comes the part where I have to be difficult. I want to be able to remove the cross beams, preferably easily! Two reasons for wanting to remove the cross beams. The trailer has a 3 or 4" side board lip (could just block underneath as the shed is lowered onto the trailer to clear that but I'd rather not have the extra height). Also don't want the trailer/load any wider than the 8' trailer already is.
I had the idea that maybe I could bore a hole in the 4x4 skid on each side, slide a 10' stick of sched 40 pipe (2") through (one pipe through each skid towards the front and another through each skid towards the rear) and use that as my jack points and the shed is airborne, back the trailer under, lower the shed, slide the pipes out and strap things down.
I'm no engineer (clearly!) anyone have a guess if sched 40 is too weak for that kind of load? (~1,000lb load - 10' stick of pipe jacked at each end with the load roughly 1' in from each end with an 8' span in between...the load isn't a microscopic point at each location either as it's the 3.5" of 4x4 skid on each side that would be resting on the pipe.
Lastly and most importantly - what better way is there to do this that I haven't thought to look at?
Anyhow, I need a more controlled loading method than winching it up onto the tilt deck trailer and the whole thing crashing down once it hits the tipover point.
Would be very easy to just jack it up and crib it, but I need to be able to back the trailer underneath so the jacks have to be a couple feet outboard.
That leads me to a temporary cross beam front and rear say 10' wide to go under the 7' width of the shed. End up with the shed supported by a jack (or cribbing) at each side of both front and rear cross beams. Still fairly easy (how stout does this cross beam need to be? 4x4? 6x6? Steel?)
Now comes the part where I have to be difficult. I want to be able to remove the cross beams, preferably easily! Two reasons for wanting to remove the cross beams. The trailer has a 3 or 4" side board lip (could just block underneath as the shed is lowered onto the trailer to clear that but I'd rather not have the extra height). Also don't want the trailer/load any wider than the 8' trailer already is.
I had the idea that maybe I could bore a hole in the 4x4 skid on each side, slide a 10' stick of sched 40 pipe (2") through (one pipe through each skid towards the front and another through each skid towards the rear) and use that as my jack points and the shed is airborne, back the trailer under, lower the shed, slide the pipes out and strap things down.
I'm no engineer (clearly!) anyone have a guess if sched 40 is too weak for that kind of load? (~1,000lb load - 10' stick of pipe jacked at each end with the load roughly 1' in from each end with an 8' span in between...the load isn't a microscopic point at each location either as it's the 3.5" of 4x4 skid on each side that would be resting on the pipe.
Lastly and most importantly - what better way is there to do this that I haven't thought to look at?