welded trailer balls

   / welded trailer balls
  • Thread Starter
#11  
Thanks a lot 1st.Deuce! I know it's stronger I use 8018 that's 80 pounds per inch of weld!.
 
   / welded trailer balls #13  
I'd be OK with any use...
You can buy a welded ball assembly from Harbor Freight, and it's welded in China with sub-standard components, using sub-standard equipment... Your welds look solid, and from a materials standpoint, there really isn't any issue with what you've done.
I take that back. Generally speaking, you need to grind off the chrome plating before you weld, I believe. But you welded the top and bottom, so it's probably 2x stronger than the crappy HF 3-way ball mount, and I HIGHLY doubt they grind the chrome off the balls before they weld them.

Nice looking welds, btw. :)

No doubt it is better than a HF China one. The difference is the liability IF something happens
 
   / welded trailer balls
  • Thread Starter
#14  
I hear ya to many lawyers today
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   / welded trailer balls #15  
Hitches are designed to resist shear loads with a shank through a thick plate. As long as there is a shank through the plate, welds just provide a clamping force.

The question is, is there a shank on the bottom of the ball that extends through the thick plate?
 
   / welded trailer balls
  • Thread Starter
#16  
Hitches are designed to resist shear loads with a shank through a thick plate. As long as there is a shank through the plate, welds just provide a clamping force.

The question is, is there a shank on the bottom of the ball that extends through the thick plate?
Yup there is just long enough not to go thru the bottom hole.
 
   / welded trailer balls #17  
Your welding is replacing the clamping force of a nut and it appears to be solidly welded on the bottom. Just to be on the safe side, I would grind a slight groove around the top of the existing bead to remove the chrome on the ball. Then put 2 passes around the ball, one on the bottom with half overlap of the existing bead then the second on top of the first with half overlap taking care to tie the weld in good on the ball. Don't step the rod in and out of the puddle like it appears that you did on the top bead, keep the rod in the puddle and drag it slowly around the ball. LH rods don't like to be stepped due to slag entrapment and porosity forming.
After that, I would not be afraid to run it anywhere.
As far as liability goes, if a HF Chinese welded ball did break off, I rather doubt that you could claim any liability from the manufacturer so you had better have some good insurance in any case.
 
 
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