Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please.

   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #21  
If you add a D ring right behind the fender you should have a clear path to the drawbar for a separate chain to each side. This is what I did to clear the rear tire and the attachment. You should probably weigh your tongue to make sure the tractor is in the right place on the trailer. 10-15% tongue weight depending upon weight of trailer and capacity of tow vehicle hitch. Some things you tie down and some things you tie on, a tractor fits in the middle of these. Set bucket flat if you can and set all attachments on the deck.
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #22  
It looks as if your trailer has a bar across the front. With the bucket sitting flat this can be your last line of defense when things go really bad to keep the tractor behind you rather than on top of you. Sometimes it's just that one extra thing you did that keeps you out of a trouble in an emergency. Experience from a couple million miles of flat bed semi's.
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #23  
I think legally your supposed to have the bucket secured. (like you have the box blade) :confused3:
I don't think the unit is going anywhere but in the eyes of a hard shall we say "headed" inspector, that may be a point.

Re: stake pockets and chains. A chain hook may be dropped through the pocket itself, brought up inside of the rub rail and hung on the pocket or it may be dropped inside of the rub rail, brought up through the pocket and hung on the pocket. Always inside the pocket or rub rail. Rub rails may be used for hooking but only out of necessity. I would never use the rub rail as a primary hook point such as for the chain running through the drawbar clevis hook in the photo. For the bucket or drag box attachment would be fine. The issue with running the chain through a pocket than hooking it back onto the chain somewhere is if the chain should for some reason go slack. (Note that there is no rub rail on the trailer to fuss over anyway)

Chain hooks need to be set so in case of the chain slacking that the hook can never drop away. Should the worst happen, a machine hanging off the side of a trailer deck is decidedly better than one laying on top of a car or going through someone's house.
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please.
  • Thread Starter
#24  
I have two new 20 foot 3/8" G70 chains. I plan to cut each in half and put a slip hook on the other end. Two slip hooks on the clevis at rear with one chain going to a stake pocket on each side and a ratchet binder on each.

Same for the front just with the slip hooks attached to axle straps
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #25  
I think its pretty cool that someone would post photos of their set up, ask for feedback, and adjust what they're doing. Lots of people are too proud to learn, hesitant to ask for help, or whatever.
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #26  
I agree with FatTire.

My Son works for a Tow Service. In Missouri it's 4 chains required to secure the tractor. For example, driver's side front chain binds to the passenger side front of the trailer. Makes two X's, one at each end. Then the attachments are required to be chained down to the trailer floor to prevent bouncing. The clevis on the drawbar is definitely a no-go.

For me, I don't worry about it so much. But for legal, I'd chain it down and then visit the local State Operated Hiway Scales. They'll tell you how you are doing. Take plenty of extra chains/binders.
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #27  
I agree with FatTire.

My Son works for a Tow Service. In Missouri it's 4 chains required to secure the tractor. For example, driver's side front chain binds to the passenger side front of the trailer. Makes two X's, one at each end. Then the attachments are required to be chained down to the trailer floor to prevent bouncing. The clevis on the drawbar is definitely a no-go.

For me, I don't worry about it so much. But for legal, I'd chain it down and then visit the local State Operated Hiway Scales. They'll tell you how you are doing. Take plenty of extra chains/binders.

Why across to the otherside in "X's"?
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #28  
I think its pretty cool that someone would post photos of their set up, ask for feedback, and adjust what they're doing. Lots of people are too proud to learn, hesitant to ask for help, or whatever.



I agree 100%.
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #29  
Why across to the otherside in "X's"?
Four fasteners, one for each corner away from the piece being chained down is the most secure way. Often, a fastener running from say the right side of the piece being secured will not have a clear path. Rather, a wheel or track will interfere. Securing from opposing sides often makes for a clear path.

I have not heard of it being an absolute though.
 
   / Chained Tractor down for first time. Assess and Critique please. #30  
Why across to the otherside in "X's"?
Using how he has the front chained if the chain loosened and he hit a bump the load could move side to side. If he crossed them the load wouldn't be able to move side to side. In his case with one chain be a long chain. Do you need to cross chain if you come off the four corners with separate chains? Don't know. I do try and do it when I can.
 
 
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