Trailer brakes

[Eric_Phillips]

I finally got my new brake controller installed, Tekonsha P3, and headed out to adjust the output. I am pulling a small pop up trailer probably not much more than 2500lbs. First I set the output to about 6 traveling about 20mph and applied the brake manually. I didn't feel any real pull on the van and the wheels did not lock up. I increased the controller output to max and still very little braking. I jacked up the trailer and had my son apply the brakes. It took some effort but I could turn the wheels with the brakes fully applied. I assumed they just needed adjusting. I adjusted them until the wheel would turn about one revolution after a moderate spin. At this setting I could not turn the wheel by hand with the brakes applied. I took it back out for a test and still could not lock up the brakes even at max setting. I tried this on pavement and gravel. This trailer is about 20 years old and this is the first time the brakes have been used. Any idea why the brakes are so weak? I have not yet pulled the hubs since it needed to be used this weekend and I didn't want any other problems.

 

[bigdeano]

You might start by measuring the voltage near the brakes when fully applied. Seems like it should be near 12v if the controller is working properly.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Adjust the brakes with a little drag in them and try again. They will wear in.

If not pull them apart and check the electrical connections, especially the grounds.

If thats not it get new magnets. Even though never used they may be worn. They are a replacement item.

 

[dodge man]

If its a light weight trailer maybe the brakes aren't meant to do a lot? You'd think they would at least lock up on gravel though.

 

[George2615]

Since the trailer is about 20 years old the shoes themselves may be worn or any number of things that Diamond Pilot mentioned. You may be able to buy complete replacement brakes for the trailer from Etrailer for a very reasonable price. They would include new backing plates, shoes, magnets etc. all assembled and ready to bolt on.

 

[frugalangler]

Great choice on the controller, one of if not the best available.

This sounds like poor ground, you MUST have a separate (usually white) ground wire in the plug, don't rely on the hitch, they are famous at becoming a resistor or insulator. I always run a separate ground wire from the plug to each brake magnet and never rely on a frame to be a good conductor - it's a safety thing - don't compromise! Same with the brake wire, make sure it's good all the way from the plug to each magnet coil.

 

[Eric_Phillips]

Thanks for the responses. My wife was the lucky one to pull the trailer this weekend since I had to work. She said she did notice a big improvement over no brakes so they are doing something. Now that the camping is over for the season I will do more investigation into the brakes.

 

[Deere Dude]

Since the trailer is about 20 years old the shoes themselves may be worn or any number of things that Diamond Pilot mentioned. You may be able to buy complete replacement brakes for the trailer from Etrailer for a very reasonable price. They would include new backing plates, shoes, magnets etc. all assembled and ready to bolt on.

What he said^^^. I had lousy braking even with a new 16,000# GVWR GN trailer and a 15yo 17000# Fifth wheel camper. I thought it sucked but that was just how they are supposed to be.

I replaced my POS Tekonsha with a P3 Tekonsha and it helped a little, but still not good. Although leary to take brakes apart because lack of expertise I figured I would take my GN apart that had 10,000 miles on it. The shoes were pretty worn/shot out so I put the whole backing and brake assy. on which was a very easy job. Had the drums reground to like new. The trailer pulled like new and brakes would lock up if I desired.

Then I tackled the 15 yo very heavy camper with original brakes that never seemed to work from new. I found one set of shoes totally ground down to metal (I think because I adjusted them too tight and could not back them off) and that wore off very quickly. The other 3 looked good yet with 15000 miles on. But I pulled all off and replaced all of them with the whole kit, shoes, magnets, and reground the hubs.

Since that time 4 years ago both work like a dream, can lock them up anytime I desire, which is not often, and they are smooth operating. After 25 years of pulling my fifth wheels and trailers I now understand how they should be and how dangerous it was before the fix.

My lesson learned; The brakes were good from new but the controllers were bad. By the time I got my P3 the brakes were bad. Replace them all was the best and was not very costly.

Good luck.

 

[RobertN]

If the trailer is 20 years old, and the brakes have not been adjusted, it is safe to assume the bearing have not been taken care of either. Dexter recommends clean/repack bearing and check brakes yearly.

This would be a good time to put the trailer on jackstands, and pull the hubs. Clean and repack the bearings. Then, go thru the brakes while the drums are off, repair as necessary, and adjust as needed.

When I got my used 5th wheel a few years back, the brakes worked ok, but not great. Turned out they were only working on one axle; at some point someone improperly rewired the brakes on the back axle. While I had it on jackstands, I got new seals, repacked bearings, fixed wiring issue, and serviced the brakes. Since then, I repack the bearings per the Dexter recomendations(12,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes first).

 

[RobertN]

From Dexter:
http://www.dexteraxle.com/docs/defa...1f9b809d2ba463c18d7aff64007a4014.pdf?sfvrsn=0

Inspect/Adjust brakes every 3000 miles
Repack bearings 12 months or 12000 miles; whichever comes first.