A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint

   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #1  

Oldpath05

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My son is changing U joints on is 04 Wrangler, started putting them in last night, couple AutoZone Duralast, he had a hard time getting the snap ring back in after the first one he's asking me why this joint is so stiff, I move the joint and yes it is really stiff, more than I remember 40 years ago. So he say's he'll try the other brand Splicer, USA origin, that probably means made in US, assembled in China.

But anyways started putting that one in and noticed thin plastic washers in the caps, ask me why I said maybe it's some form of compression washer, he said I'll put it in and google it later, he got it in and pouded the snap rings in place but the joint is still really stiff, I told him the those plastic washes will wear in. So this morning he did some searching on Splicer U joints and found on a Wrangler forum that those thin plastic washers are for cutting down vibration in the driveline, wonder if that's an issue on tractors, doubt it..........
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #2  
Usually, after a U joint is installed and is very stiff / hard to move and can't get the snap ring in, it is due to one or more of the needle bearings have fallen over into the cup during install. I've seen it happen many times. A friend of mine broke 2 u joints trying to get the cups pressed in far enough to install the clips. Not saying this is your sons problem, just a possibility.
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #3  
I wouldn't call brand new u joints stiff. Smooth would be alot more like it. Getting them apart is usually challenging! Are they grease able joints? The only place on a tractor that I could see it matter about vibration would be something in a pto driveline.
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #4  
Usually, after a U joint is installed and is very stiff / hard to move and can't get the snap ring in, it is due to one or more of the needle bearings have fallen over into the cup during install. I've seen it happen many times. A friend of mine broke 2 u joints trying to get the cups pressed in far enough to install the clips. Not saying this is your sons problem, just a possibility.
Been there, done that on my first PTO shaft rebuild. Needle got loose & was at the end of the cap. Pulled it apart put the pin back & reassembled. Works fine now.
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #5  
Proper stiffness for a u-joint is when you lift up the U section it falls slowly (like 2 seconds), not dropping immediately and not sticking in place. This is for driveline joints. not steering or height adjustment jack screws.
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #6  
My son is changing U joints on is 04 Wrangler, started putting them in last night, couple AutoZone Duralast, he had a hard time getting the snap ring back in after the first one he's asking me why this joint is so stiff, I move the joint and yes it is really stiff, more than I remember 40 years ago. So he say's he'll try the other brand Splicer, USA origin, that probably means made in US, assembled in China.

But anyways started putting that one in and noticed thin plastic washers in the caps, ask me why I said maybe it's some form of compression washer, he said I'll put it in and google it later, he got it in and pouded the snap rings in place but the joint is still really stiff, I told him the those plastic washes will wear in. So this morning he did some searching on Splicer U joints and found on a Wrangler forum that those thin plastic washers are for cutting down vibration in the driveline, wonder if that's an issue on tractors, doubt it..........

"SPICER" have always made high quality UJ's. I can't speak for the "SpLicer" brand.

OEM Parts | Aftermarket Drivelines, Axles, U-Joints and More - Spicer
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #7  
Just take a medium sized hammer and tap the u-joint on the side of the "U" so as to tighten the snap ring up against the outside of the grove that it's in. It shouldn't take much and the u-joint will be looser.

I've never been able to insert the snap ring into the grove if there is a needle laying sideways in the cup. That seldom happens to me anymore. One thing that really helps with this is to give a squirt of grease into each cup before installation. Smear the grease around the needles evenly to help hold them in place.

I've found over the years that automotive u-joints last a lot longer if you avoid driving through puddles when it rains and if you grease the u-joint with water proof grease. On my 1990 Cummins with just regular grease I was replacing the rear u-joint once a year. Water proof grease and I now change the rear u-joint once every 5 years.
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #8  
Just take a medium sized hammer and tap the u-joint on the side of the "U" so as to tighten the snap ring up against the outside of the grove that it's in. It shouldn't take much and the u-joint will be looser.
What he ^ said, usually they get bent in ever so slightly when being assembled, a slight tap with a drift to open them up a bit and all is good...........M
 
   / A U-Joint is a U-joint for a new joint #9  
Pmsmechanic has hit the nail right on the head.

If a needle fell over...snap ring wouldn't go in.

Tight joints are from assembly. I position the driveshaft on the bench so one of the yolk ears is on the bench and a gentle hit from a dead blow on the shaft....then turn 180 degrees and repeat. That should make a world of difference for that direction.

Now do the same thing for the other two caps.

Hit the direction that will try to move a cap tight out against the snap ring.
 
 
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