Need practical advice: trailer to haul Kioti

[sendero]

I've recently been informed by the retailer who sold me my Kioti DK35 that they will no longer sell or service the Kiotis. They were located about 3 miles from my place. They have kindly referred me to another dealer that is about 20 miles away.

I had been planning to buy a flatbed trailer to haul lumber/whatever for some time. So I thought, maybe I could get a bigger trailer and when my Kioti eventually needs service, I could haul it in myself. Problem is, I know next to nothing about towing something as heavy as my Kioti.

I have a late model Chevy 1500 pickup. I think it is rated to tow about 4,000 pounds. My Kioti weighs about 4,000 pounds with the FEL. It is about 13' long with the FEL attached.

I have seen 77"x14' flatbed trailers for sale, they are not too expensive. Would having brakes on such a trailer be a necessity? Would the combined weight of the Kioti and the trailer likely be too much for my truck to pull (I would have no interest in exceeding 55 mph)?

Would I be better off just paying a pro to move my tractor? What do y'all think?

 

[George2615]

Your 1/2 ton will probably haul the tractor with no problem. (I'm guessing you have an 8 cyl.) If it weighs 4000 with the FEL, a trailer could add another 1700-2000 for a total of 6000. I'd suggest a 16'-18' double axle trailer, (13' for the tractor plus a few feet to allow for tongue weight setting) 7000lb rated would be fine. Trailers rated over 3000lb capacity are required to have brakes on at least one axle, both axles if over 10,000lb cap. brakes on both axles is preferred. (Its pretty tough to try and stop using just truck brakes when you have 6000 lb. pushing behind you). The truck should have a frame mounted hitch. A landscape trailers fold down gate won't be strong enough to support the tractor driving on it but a flatbed equipment or car type trailer with ramps would do just fine. Trailers can have surge type brakes or electric. Electric brake trailers will require your truck to have a trailer wiring plug installed and a brake controller installed in the cab. (Not too big of a job any trailer dealer should be able to do). After all that is done and your towing down the road, allow plenty of room in front of you and take your time driving. Plus your Kioti can tow the trailer around your property as well.
Good luck on your purchase and safe towing.
George

 

[Highbeam]

Sendero,

I have a CK30 that with the loader weighs 4000 lbs and then a single 3pth implement another 500. I tow it with a half ton chevy. Check out the discussion below that I stole from a previous post of mine. I like my setup a lot.

I tow with a 98 chevy half ton truck. 4x4, 350 engine, auto tranny, with gauges to monitor transmission temperature and manifold vacuum. I use stock size LT tires in load range C. It has engine oil and trans oil coolers with the tow package. 143,000 miles. I set this truck up for RV hauling and it works very well, not winning races, but very stable and effective. I am within all axle ratings and tire ratings. The tow rating is 6500 (oddly, the tow rating for the 3/4 ton version is less) which I use every bit of. I get 11 mpg hauling the tractor 80+ miles round trip, I have broken 20 mpg several times on highway cruises when not towing.

I then go through the stock GM receiver hitch to a Robin WD hitch system rated at 10,000 lbs, even the 2-5/16" ball is rated for 10,000, I use 1000 lb spring bars.

The trailer is a PJ Trailer. It is 18' including the 2' dovetail. The channel in that photo is all 6" tall. Even the wrap around tongue. The trailer weighs 2500#s and has two 8-lug, braked, 5200# capacity dexter axles with e-rated tires and a GVWR of 10,000. (It might be 10,400). The lights are all recessed, non-LED, standard trucker style, and rubber mounted, the ramps are 5' long and slide in sideways under the dovetail. It uses treated 2x8 decking that is bolted down and the planks are individually removeable and replaceable.

So I run the tractor up therein 4wd, about 4000-4500 lbs. I locate it so that I have just the right amount of tongue weight, drop the implements, and then set the parking brake. I use the stake pockets and the typical double hooked chains. Mine are 3/8" binder chain of phenomenal working load limit. I use two short loops around the stake pocket and the tractor attachment point. I don't use a single attachement point on the tractor such as a big shackle since if that shackle (clevis?) came undone then both chains would be defeated. The independent chain off allows for any one chain to fail and the rig stays put. So between the short loops is some 16' of chain. That's too much so I hook in the ratchet binders of phenomenal working load limit and bind down the tractor, I wrap the extra chain around the bider three times so it doesn't fall off the deck and drag. The only trouble with the ratchet style of binder that I have found is that water can get into the ratchet mechanism and freeze it solid.

I leave the ROPS up and just tow along at 60-65. No sway or porpoising. The trailer has extra unused capacity. That was intentional since I like to be within the working load limits and not on the ragged edge. The truck is at the ragged edge and if it ever proves insufficient or independable then it will be replaced with a 3/4 or one ton. So far so good.

 

[Bird]

Billy, I think George2615 gave you the right answer. Get a 16' double axle trailer with brakes. I'd stay away from surge brakes; go with the brake controller on the truck. And of course be extra careful if you're not experienced at pulling heavy trailers.

 

[Soundguy]

A standard 'full size' pickup is pretty much the status quo on hauling a 16' - 18' dual axle 'car hauler' style trailer.. Do get brakes.. ( I'm not sure you could get it without brakes, for that style anyway. ). If your truck is 98 or newer ( 96 for some vehicles ).. then you may already have an option plug to drop in a brake controller and fuse/circuit breaker ..

Those trailers are grossed at 6000 - 7000#. You may need a receiver style hitch unless you already have one.

Soundguy

 

[RedRocker]

16 foot minimum, 18 foot is better with more than 7000 pound axels. Tractor 4K, BB 550, trailer 2K, there's your 7K right there. Brakes on both axels are a must!!!!
I've got a 16 and looking for a 20 or 22' so I can haul the Quad with the tractor

 

[EddieWalker]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Trailers rated over 3000lb capacity are required to have brakes on at least one axle, )</font>

This isn't accurate, or at least not here in Texas. My 16 foot trailer has 7,000 pound axles on it and no brakes. I bought it brand new two years ago from a dealer.

Of course, the law could have changed or my dealer is selling illegal trailers. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

I consider my trailer to be the minmum for what you want to do. I've hauled my Centrury 2535, (which is close to the same size as yours), with it about the same distance for several weeks when I first bought it, but didn't want to leave it at the land until I had a place to lock it up.

Brakeing is a big issue, but so is sway. Single rear wheels can realy get squirly on rough roads, sudden turns and strong side winds.

Since it's only an occasion use for this, you should be fine with a 16 footer and duel axles. A bull hitch would be better along with the jack being solid and far enough back so you can still get your tail gate open.

The last and most important thing in my opinion, is to be sure to put your automatic transmision out of overdrive. Never tow anything in overdrive.

Eddie

 

[BillG_in_TX]

RedRocker,

It looks like you've located a buyer for your 16' trailer! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[Highbeam]

I would not want less than my 18' trailer. With the mower on the back I have to pull way forward and this puts too much tongue weight on the truck. If you have room to store it I think you'll find the 20' size trailer is about ideal. If your sole purpose is to transport the tractor to the dealer then you can always leave the implements at home to make for a short package.

 

[George2615]

Eddie,
I may have mis-spoke, I'll rephrase my statement to say that In NY state trailers over 3000# are required to have brakes on at least one axle. Can't get one without them. Brakes on both axles if over 10k are required. I figured it was the same nationwide. I know the laws recently changed in the past year or so because last year I was going to buy a 2 axle trailer from TSC. However, I was told that since trailers over 3000# require brakes they could'nt get them due to recent changes in the law here that require dealers to have a service mechanic employed who can repair them. TSC around my area (2 stores) will no longer carry them since they aren't going to hire a mechanic. In my opinion, trailer dealers in upstate NY ask high prices for 7, 10, or 12K or higher rated trailers. I drove to PA to purchase my 8'x20' tiltbed and the trailer price including my fuel costs, and 2 restaurant stops to eat on the way down and back and the costs were still $600 less than 5 local dealers quoted me for a non tilt trailer.
George