New Car Hauler Wood for middle?

   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #1  

mffarmall

Gold Member
Joined
Sep 16, 2005
Messages
396
Location
Colorado
Tractor
Farm Pro 2425, MF 50, JD B, Farmall Super MTA
I have a JB B and MF 50 both tricycles. The car hauler that I bought has no middle. Just metal supports every two feet. Should I use 2x8s to fill in the middle or can I use 5/8 or thicker plywood?
 
   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #2  
I would go heavier than 5/8" ply, but 2X material might be over kill for your use. I rebuilt my 3500# utility trailer last fall and used 5/4 X 6 treated decking boards for the floor. The supports are on 24" center and it has worked out very well. You can get self taping trailer floor screws that makes installation real quick!:) Trailer Floor Screws
 
   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #3  
Iowachild said:
I would go heavier than 5/8" ply, but 2X material might be over kill for your use. I rebuilt my 3500# utility trailer last fall and used 5/4 X 6 treated decking boards for the floor. The supports are on 24" center and it has worked out very well. You can get self taping trailer floor screws that makes installation real quick!:) Trailer Floor Screws

Do you use 1 or 2 screws on every board at each support joist? I'm going to replace the 2x6 wood deck on my trailer soon. The existing wood is screwed down on every other joist. Nothing at the end (held down by angle iron).
 
   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #4  
I just redid my 16' floor. I used 2x6 PT and used a 1-1/4" x 2" carriage bolt in the center of each board. I made sure my growth rings were facing down so if the board cupped it would cup down and not up. I used the 1/4" carriage bolts because if I have to replace one I could snap or torch it off in a hurry and just put another one in. The self tapping screws are sometimes not so forgiving. I put screws in in the same crossmembers the manufacturer had them. Slide in front and back, screw in the second rail from the toungue, screw in the middle crossmember and screw in the last crossmember. The bolts just keep the board from sliding and tight to the crossmembers. I asked several trailer manufactures about the new PT lumber rusting the metal and they all said it may rot the bolts over time but I'll be long gone by the time it eats up the trailer rails. Keep in mind the end rails are sometimes exactly 1 1/2" and PT is a hair larger. I had to plane the ends of my boards to get them to slide in the bottom and top angle iron. Overall not a bad project. The worst part was the mesquitos eating me while I was doing it.
 
   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #5  
jjcc246 said:
I just redid my 16' floor. I used 2x6 PT and used a 1-1/4" x 2" carriage bolt in the center of each board....

Do you screw or bolt the slide-in front and back ends? or just let it loose there?
 
   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #6  
I'd use 2x6 or 2x8 pressure treated to fill in the open area on your trailer. On a older 16' beavertail I redecked I did as JJCC246 did. I drilled my boards and used carriage bolts instead of the trailer floor screws mentioned. I had that type originally and nine out of ten broke off trying to get them out. As for the front and back slide in part, if there is support under it you don't need to screw or bolt them. I did not bolt at every cross brace but two bolts at each 4'.
 
   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #7  
George2615 said:
I drilled my boards and used carriage bolts instead of the trailer floor screws mentioned. I had that type originally and nine out of ten broke off trying to get them out. As for the front and back slide in part, if there is support under it you don't need to screw or bolt them. I did not bolt at every cross brace but two bolts at each 4'.
Yes, the down side of the trailer floor bolts. But I was able to screw them out from the under side after they broke. My side boards are held on with carriage bolts and they generally have to be cut off with Sawzall as the heads just spin around once the wood gets punky.
 
   / New Car Hauler Wood for middle? #8  
stumpfield said:
Do you screw or bolt the slide-in front and back ends? or just let it loose there?
Just let them loose. They were pretty snug after i planed them.
 
 
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